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Thread: First Arc

  1. #1
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    Cool First Arc

    Here is my initial review of the PowerArc 140ST. The box was in good condition and didn't suffer too much at the hands of UPS. Being inside a plastic case and having about a 3/4" layer of styrofoam around it was enough to keep it safe and sound. It really is small and light. I could see hanging this on my shoulder and welding up on a ladder or something. There are a few differences since the Everlast video was made. The date on this was May 2012, so I think this is the current production version. It came with much longer leads, about 10 feet, compared to the 1.5 meter listed and shown on the other video. The work clamp is way better, too. I was planning on changing that, but this one is fine. It's much heavier duty than most of these type of sheet metal clamps, and it has a copper strap between the jaws. I think this is the same clamp used on the higher output machines. The stinger is the screw type and is pretty heavy. I would have liked the clamp type, but that's an easy fix. The TIG torch is also a bit different. This one came with a straight handle WP-17V type instead of the Euro type. I think I'll prefer this one, but I had a modification plan for the Euro style that I will have to re-engineer. With the stubby collet kit, I might just stay with this instead of switching to a WP-9. I'll have to try it and see how I like it. I didn't measure the cable on the TIG torch, but it looks plenty long, and is the single cable/hose style with no covering. I bet it will do fine for me. Another thing different is that it came with one of those welding masks with a handle. Since it fits in the case it might come in handy if I forget a helmet, or would be fine for an observer.

    I put on the special plug I made up, and fired it up on 120V in the office. It's a lot quieter than I expected, just a little fan noise. The display is now calibrated to read correctly on 120 as it maxed out at 86 amps. I really like that you don't have to convert now when running on 120. Later I took it out to the shop and plugged it into 240. It took a few seconds for the display to settle down but then the adjustment was smooth and consistant. On 120 the range was 4 to 86 amps, on 240 it was 11 to 142. There was a slight squeal from the switching frequency, but barely noticeable above the fan noise.
    I setup with some inch and a half 3/32 wall square tube scraps, for a 3/32 open butt joint with 3/32 7018AC rod. Seeing a pattern here? I dialed in 80 amps and lit up on the first side. Arc start was great and very smooth. But just a little too much power for this. Started to keyhole and I had to stop and back the power down. My old stick welder only has a pointer that gets you in the ballpark of what your output is, so I can't even say what I usually burn these at. I backed down to 65 amps and that was about perfect. I got full penitration with good coverage inside and out and no undercut. I stuck a clamp on meter on the cable and measured around 63 amps, so the display is just about perfectly calibrated. Way better than any other welder I've ever had. This is my first experience with an inverter and I am sold. Such a night and day difference from a transformer or even an engine driven. Stick welding is not something I do a lot of, but even being a little rusty, this thing laid down a great weld with ease. It was more like a TIG arc than stick. Smooth, quiet, and very easy to control. Restarts were a piece of cake, without even tapping off the flux on the tip. I can also see this box has plenty of power. There was no sounds like it was laboring at all. I couldn't be more happy with my decision to get this.

    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  2. #2

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    A very good simple down to earth intro to the 140ST, it also applies pretty much to the 160STH (add regulator and hose).

    Your comment on the plug can apply to the in-box manual and face shield for many as well (but again we sell welders). It is always best to pull the latest manual from the website.

    We used to ship the old style (clamp adjustable) electrode holder, so I am lucky to have one and just move mine to the unit I am using, but the new style will do the job like you said. Just a little getting used to. 6010 can get exciting with that style for the new stick welder.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
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    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  3. #3
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    It just blows me away how small they can make a welder these days.

    So why does the factory even put that plug in the box? Wouldn't it be less wasteful to just save it for units going to countries that use that style plug?
    Penncrest Buzzbox - Infinite amp control! Man the 70's were good.
    Everlast Powerplasma 60 - Reliable unit, cuts well.
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeard View Post
    It just blows me away how small they can make a welder these days.

    So why does the factory even put that plug in the box? Wouldn't it be less wasteful to just save it for units going to countries that use that style plug?
    Some do, just not the US. That is a Duncan question. But we have worked on a lot of things for years and we just deal with it. But we hear about it all the time.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    Some do, just not the US. That is a Duncan question. But we have worked on a lot of things for years and we just deal with it. But we hear about it all the time.
    That is a US plug, though it is obscure for some people who are not used to a dual volt plug that is 20 amps. It is a plug used in older constructions for window units, if I remember right. A twenty amp 120 plug looks different than a 15 amp. A lot of welders use the 15 plug when it should be a 20 plug instead. A 20 amp 120V plug has a flat blade turned sideways.

  6. #6

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    I use my power arc 140 more than any other welder I own. It's a good welder and dollar for dollar you can't beat it. If I worked in a maintenance shop at a plant this would be a welder I would want to carry with me. If someone were buying their first welder I would say buy a power arc 140.

    Last winter I welded some 1/4" plates on a smoker so a guy could bolt on castors. I never unloaded it out of the guys truck. I put down some moving blankets and went to town. The guy could not believe the power out of that small package. It's a good simple package to weld with. I leave my power arc 140 in my truck and have pulled it out several times to do simple quick repairs.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    Some do, just not the US. That is a Duncan question. But we have worked on a lot of things for years and we just deal with it. But we hear about it all the time.

    Yeah, it is a US, a NEMA 10-20. I seem to remember seeing that on really old restaurant equipment, too. But since it doesn't have a separate ground pin, it hasn't been used since.....well since 2 prong 120V outlets didn't have a separate ground pin. Before my time for installations, but you still see them on really old buildings from time to time.

    The proper current plug would be a 6-20. Another obscure plug I have only used in hospitals.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    That is a US plug, though it is obscure for some people who are not used to a dual volt plug that is 20 amps. It is a plug used in older constructions for window units, if I remember right. A twenty amp 120 plug looks different than a 15 amp. A lot of welders use the 15 plug when it should be a 20 plug instead. A 20 amp 120V plug has a flat blade turned sideways.
    The current 120/20 has the one (probably neutral) turned sideways. Either way, two small for most of our welders and should not be in the box.

    Now that you mention it, I think I have seen them way back on window units.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the review, Rambozo! Nice looking, super-compact unit. I agree that looks like a better torch than the Euro style handle. The plastic box it came in is kind of interesting... think you will keep it in there?

    Looks like a great alternative to a Thermal-Arc 95s. Of course, with the Everlast being capable of running on 240V with far greater power output than the TA95s, the Everlast appears to be the more capable lunchbox.
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  10. #10

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    I dont know about Rambozo, but I do like the storage case and plan to keep my 140 in it when it is not in use.
    Everlast PowerTig 200DX
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    I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
    I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160

  11. #11
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    Spent a little more time with my new toy.
    Compared to the Thermal Arc 95S:

    TA95S 9" x 5.1" x 13", 95 amps, 1 year warranty, TIG torch extra.

    PA140ST 9.5" x 5.125" x 11.625", 140 amps, 5 year warranty, TIG torch included.
    (Mike you might want to update the Dimensions sticky with these actual unit dimensions)

    Looks like a no brainer to me. Smaller, more power, longer warranty, more accessories, more versatile with dual power, costs less. To top it off, by looking at some of Duncan's pictures they might even be made in the same factory.

    Still playing with 6011. I can see it's going to take some new techniques. Whip and pause doesn't act like I'm used to, but it does burn in nicely. I want to get some fresh rods to try again.
    Here are a couple more tests:

    6013 on 1/8" plate closed butt joint.
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    6013 on 1/8" plate 3/32 open butt joint.
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    7018 on 1/8" plate 3/32 open butt joint. Some pitting, but these rods were leftovers from a few months ago and left out. I don't have a rod oven so I just buy these rods when I need some.
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    Here is a TIG test on 1/8" plate 1/16 open butt joint.
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    Just for kicks I tried this bead on some 1/8 aluminum using DCEP and a 1/8" tungsten.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also plan on keeping it in the case. I'm a sucker for nice cases, and it fits everything plus my power adapter plug with room to spare for gloves, etc. Just today I pulled out a tool that I probably haven't used in 4 or 5 years to help someone here. Because it was in a case, it was nice and clean and protected from dust and rust.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  12. #12

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    If you've got crummy 6011's you'll get crummy results. Try Lincoln fleetweld 87, or ESAB atom arcs. With inverters, you have an counter intuitve technique that goes against a transformer welder. Hold the arc closer when you need more heat, and the arc force will kick in. Also,the inverter is designed to shut down if too high of voltage is reached by too long of an arc, in order to reduce amp demand from wall and maintain level heat in the circuitry.

  13. #13
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    That makes sense. I did notice that it got hotter with a close arc. I've never been a big user of 6010 or 6011 except when I have to burn through a lot of crap. I think these were Lincoln Fleetweld, but probably pretty old. I just wanted to try everything I had around. After a few tries I got pretty good results, but nothing I wanted to photograph, yet.
    One thing I did find odd was that on GTAW DCEP my autodark helmet did not want to stay dark, so I had to go old skool with a fixed shade for that. No cheater in that helmet. It sucks getting old.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Spent a little more time with my new toy.
    Compared to the Thermal Arc 95S:

    TA95S 9" x 5.1" x 13", 95 amps, 1 year warranty, TIG torch extra.

    PA140ST 9.5" x 5.125" x 11.625", 140 amps, 5 year warranty, TIG torch included.
    (Mike you might want to update the Dimensions sticky with these actual unit dimensions)
    Got it and dowe. Thank you sir.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    Got it and dowe. Thank you sir.
    I would keep the carrying case dimensions along with the unit dimensions on the sticky, I'm sure some people will want one or the other. It would also help to show which units come with cases.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I would keep the carrying case dimensions along with the unit dimensions on the sticky, I'm sure some people will want one or the other. It would also help to show which units come with cases.
    Will add it later today, good idea though. Many will want to put in a tool box on the truck.

    Mine's not been back in the case but once since opened (too see if it all fit back in), it did and that's just me. And it has never left the shop yet, though I will probably take it as needed in my case.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  17. #17
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    More to prove it could be done, but not something I ever expect to try again. (unless I have to) Not the nicest looking, but considering how it fought me, I'll take what I can get. And I'm not going to spend time trying to figure out the best way to do this.

    1/8" aluminum tread plate, I think it's 3003. Welded with this little 140ST on DCEP. 4043 filler, 1/8" 2% lanthanated tungsten.

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    One more test to go...
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  18. #18
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    This is a TIG project, but no welding required, so I figure I'll just stay in this thread. I had an idea to build something like this into the euro torch where the dummy button was, but had to rethink things when it shipped with a different torch. I think I like this better as I am really used to the round handle torches anyway. At first I was going to use a thumbwheel type, but the more I thought about it, the more a linear slide seemed better. I ordered a handfull of different types to see what looked like it would work best.

    I made the mounting block from a piece of acetal so it would slide smoothly and be insulated.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also made the sliding piece from the same material. I curved it to fit the torch handle and made a couple of grooves to tiewrap it in place. I wanted to keep it small, so I couldn't think of any better way to mount it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here are the finished parts, and the complete unit.

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    All mounted up and the shielded cable is run inside some fiberglass sleeving to protect it and the torch cable. The handle will rotate around the torch for different positions.

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    I used a switching audio jack, so the panel control is disabled when you plug in the torch control. I thought about having the panel set the max, but for only a 140 amp welder (85A on 120VAC) I figured this wasn't worth fooling with.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Presto! Now I can downslope at the end of a weld, or get a little extra heat if I don't have the panel set right. To be honest I've used a foot pedal so much or welders with vague amperage controls, that I really don't know how many amps I weld with. I just know when it's right. I used a Syncrowave once with meters on it, but they only worked when welding, so I never saw them move.

    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  19. #19

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    Very detailed and nice work.

    What cad or cad/cam program did you use and does it tie into the mill (assuming yes)? Where did you buy the 20K slider board (not sure what the 210EXT uses but the all the other pretty much are 47K). Do you weld overhand with it and use the thumb or under and index finger?
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  20. #20

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    EXT 210 uses 1k.

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