Need a little help , most everything i weld is steel. Want to weld a intake manifold that has a crack approx 1/2 thick aluminum, i have already v'd the crack, any one give me a general start settings on my 200dx ?? I'd appreciate any info.
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Need a little help , most everything i weld is steel. Want to weld a intake manifold that has a crack approx 1/2 thick aluminum, i have already v'd the crack, any one give me a general start settings on my 200dx ?? I'd appreciate any info.
You are really going to be above teh capacity of the 200dx to weld it "right. that said, you may still be able to weld it.
You will definitely be at full power, and pretty much adjust everything it's got to focus the arc for penetration. If you can get a helium mix for your gas it woudl be better, but probably not practical for one weld.
To get it to work well, you are going to have to preheat the part. If you have a torch that may work, but a better option would be to put it in an oven to get the whole part up to temp. I'd go to about 400-450 on that since you don't have to worry about any over-aging for a cast manifold.
I agree with Sportbike, as far as trying to get the job done in TIG mode with a 200dx, but, if you're unable to get that to work, the other option is ESAB's "Allstate Smoothcote 34" Electrodes. They are an aluminum alloy electrode meant to run on DCEP, and the 200dx, in stick mode, should prove to be the PERFECT machine to run them with. Below is a quote from their website describing them. They are available in 3/32" and 1/8"
"A premium DC reverse, all-position aluminum electrode with an extruded coating. For use on aluminum sheets, plates and castings of 1/8" thickness or heavier. Deposits are dense and smooth, and provide good color match to base metal. Also for build-up, cladding and reinforcing."
There's actually a guy from Finland or some other eastern-bloc that has you-tube videos posted using these (or similar) electrodes to perform some aluminum welding in DC-TIG mode! Although far from ideal, it just goes to show what a person is capable of when it comes time to improvise.
I must include a disclaimer that I have NO personal experience with either the electrodes, or the 200dx, so, this is just an idea that, if all else fails, I put out there for you to investigate further, either way, wish you the best of luck!:)
Interesting thread- Bobkat, please let us know how it goes.
Sportbike's post mentions preheating, and I wondered if the stick electrode method required any preheating. Based on Hooda's post I searched for "ESAB Allstate Smoothcote 34", saw a link to the ESAB site, and found that ESAB graciously posts a procedure! Turns out there is a preheat and postheat / cooldown.
Procedure
Clean weld area thoroughly. Any base metal heavier than 1/8"( 3.2mm) should be beveled at a 75 degree angle. No preheating is necessary on thin material but on heavy sections preheating to 400°F (204°C) is recommended to flatten the weld bead and reduce the amount of amperage required. Stringer beads are generally used since some undercutting will be encountered with weave beads. A short arc should be maintained with the electrode tilted slightly in the direction of travel. Allow to cool slowly. Remove slag before quenching. Additional cleaning and slag removal may be done with a wire brush and a solution of 5% nitric or 10% sulfuric acid in hot water. Rinse with clean, hot water.
Other variant.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmYXA...eature=related
that video reminds me of the old guy at all the car shows and swap meets always welding up holes he had punched in soda cans with special rods and a propane torch.Quote:
Originally Posted by donor76
Thanks that looks interesting, i have at my shop a miller 250 dial arc hf, i have the 200dx at my house, might add the crack is less than 1/4 deepQuote:
Originally Posted by hooda
that looks way to easy, wonder if it really works?
Bobkat,Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkat
Hope you let us know if you give it a shot.
With pics.
Cheers,
rivets
Donor76'S suggestion of the HTS-2000 rods may be well intended, but it you were to try it, please experiment with another, non-critical piece before you go after your important piece. Someone else mentioned that it reminded him of the guy selling a similar product at swap-meets. I've bought it, and it does a great job brazing 2 pop cans together, but for everything else I tried it on, it was WORTHLESS! What I found out is that it's not a "variant", which would suggest that it's an aluminum rod, but rather a solder or brazing alloy containing a large percentage of zinc and other metals in their "secret recipe" that's SUPPOSED to stick to aluminum. My experience was "not so much". Another perspective is that, if it were all it claims to be, a major manufacturer would have picked up on it by now. Good Luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by donor76
I am thinking the esab smoothcote rods are looking pretty good, going to see if my local has them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooda