Everlast PowerTig 250EX

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03-06-2012, 09:06 PM
FordSloman

Everlast PowerTig 250EX

As I said in my introduction, I own an European version of PowerTig 250EX machine. First of all, I wanna say 'thank you' to Everlast distributor in Finland for quick delivery and support. I have tested the machine for aluminium and mild steel applications in TIG mode, and for mild steel in MMA mode. The welding processes can be fine adjusted (only pulse has 3 knobs), so I am very glad with the results, even so, all the tests were made in cold garage (-10*C or 14*F) with preheating of the welded parts. Here you can see an example of seam on mild steel pipes.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/IMGP0367.JPG

Also, I tried to weld copper and brass. Brass could be welded, but no more brass welding ever!!!
The only function I have no idea how to use is a spot timer, but I can live with that.
That standard cart seems to be flimsy on small wheels, so I did not order one. I've made my own cart from pipes using the very machine. It's already welded but not painted (I am waiting for warm weather). There are preliminary photos of the cart without front handle and other parts which are supposed to be bolted (wheels, loops, and plates).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...0/IMGP0374.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/IMGP0375.JPG

There are some things I have to notice.
- The main has to be protected with C16 circuit breaker (slow protection). Usually, the kind of protection is used to protect an equipment with inductive load (powerful motors and etc), but even my lathe works well with B16 circuit breaker. And I am not telling about welding time; the B16 goes off just after the machine is switched on.
- The machine has a standard European plug (3P+N+E) with 5 pins, however only 4 of them are in use (neutral wire is not connected). I suppose it's because of so called triangle connection.
- The connectors for cooling liquid are the same as for argon, and the hoses are not even marked with red/blue.
- It is hard to get reading of current when pulse in LO position (the value seems to be random in some range).

Summary: I think it is a real bargain for the money, and it could be used to perform very good welding.
03-07-2012, 08:01 PM
SeanMurphy265

Glad to have you on the forum!v
03-07-2012, 09:26 PM
geezer

Welcome to the forum, looks like a nice cart, the 250EX is a pretty good machine, I' m sure you will get good use out of it, -10c in the garage,,,time for a garage heater.
03-07-2012, 10:22 PM
brianscott

How did you cut the two pieces that have a notch for (I assume) the argon tank?
03-08-2012, 10:19 AM
FordSloman

Quote:

Originally Posted by geezer

-10c in the garage,,,time for a garage heater.

It was -27*C without a heater. ;) It's possible to make a repair in such conditions wearing suitable clothes, but even when the temperature is lower than +5*C it's a good idea to preheat parts by a gas torch before they are welded to
- even welding conditions during the seam
- reduce deformation of the welded construction
- eliminate moisture from the parts

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianscott

How did you cut the two pieces that have a notch for (I assume) the argon tank?

Yep, it's a place for argon cylinder. It's much easier to show how to do that than explain. :)
To make the notch by my way you need an angle grinder and a small hammer. I made a bunch of pictures which you will found below the post, and there is my explanation step by step.
1. Mark the notch on both sides of the pipe.
2. Make three cuts from both sides like it's shown, and two more cuts to remove excessive material.
3. Make a lot of small cuts from the edge to the mark made in step 1. A gap between the cuts depends on thickness of disk you use. In my case the thickness was about 1.2mm and the gap was about 3-4mm.
4. Cut all the "teeth" by the grinder. The tricky part is an angle of the grinder during the cut.
5. A steel stripe is shown with blue colour. Prebend it with smaller radius, and tack it down from both sides of the tube in the centre. Use the hummer from the centre to sides to make it fits.
6. Use clamps to handle sides of the stripe during the welding. If you did it right, the stripe could be welded even without filler rod.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...s800/notch.jpg
03-08-2012, 10:28 PM
Jake98

Nice cart, welcome to the forum.
03-08-2012, 10:35 PM
srp

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordSloman

As I said in my introduction, I own an European version of PowerTig 250EX machine. First of all, I wanna say 'thank you' to Everlast distributor in Finland for quick delivery and support. I have tested the machine for aluminium and mild steel applications in TIG mode, and for mild steel in MMA mode. The welding processes can be fine adjusted (only pulse has 3 knobs), so I am very glad with the results, even so, all the tests were made in cold garage (-10*C or 14*F) with preheating of the welded parts. Here you can see an example of seam on mild steel pipes.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...0/IMGP0367.JPG

Also, I tried to weld copper and brass. Brass could be welded, but no more brass welding ever!!!
The only function I have no idea how to use is a spot timer, but I can live with that.
That standard cart seems to be flimsy on small wheels, so I did not order one. I've made my own cart from pipes using the very machine. It's already welded but not painted (I am waiting for warm weather). There are preliminary photos of the cart without front handle and other parts which are supposed to be bolted (wheels, loops, and plates).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...0/IMGP0374.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/IMGP0375.JPG

There are some things I have to notice.
- The main has to be protected with C16 circuit breaker (slow protection). Usually, the kind of protection is used to protect an equipment with inductive load (powerful motors and etc), but even my lathe works well with B16 circuit breaker. And I am not telling about welding time; the B16 goes off just after the machine is switched on.
- The machine has a standard European plug (3P+N+E) with 5 pins, however only 4 of them are in use (neutral wire is not connected). I suppose it's because of so called triangle connection.
- The connectors for cooling liquid are the same as for argon, and the hoses are not even marked with red/blue.
- It is hard to get reading of current when pulse in LO position (the value seems to be random in some range).

Summary: I think it is a real bargain for the money, and it could be used to perform very good welding.

The LED readout is not on the blink when it read different numbers when on pulse. Depending on the best way to tell you where it is set from pulse amps and pulse time on, it will tell max amperage, max amperage and pulse amperage, Mean amperage (average) and some times will flash all of them.

That a very nice cart!
03-24-2012, 06:09 PM
FordSloman

That cart is mostly ready, so there are some pictures. A flow meter is not installed yet (it will be installed on right side of the cart nearby reducing valve), and I think about a pocket on left side for spares and rods.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...0/IMGP0400.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...0/IMGP0401.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...0/IMGP0399.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/IMGP0402.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...0/IMGP0403.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...0/IMGP0404.JPG

Quote:

Originally Posted by srp

The LED readout is not on the blink when it read different numbers when on pulse. Depending on the best way to tell you where it is set from pulse amps and pulse time on, it will tell max amperage, max amperage and pulse amperage, Mean amperage (average) and some times will flash all of them.

It looks for me like there is always an average current for a specific period. I suppose it is the same period of LED indication refresh. I have no idea how it's really made inside this device, but I can speculate. There is a picture of current provided by the machine in different pulse modes, and it fits with an indication I can see on LEDs. All I wanna say is the LED indication is stable while period of pulse is significantly shorter than refresh(average) period, hence the refresh period should be synchronised with the pulsed current to get stable readings (like on last diagram).

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...s800/pulse.jpg
03-25-2012, 12:31 PM
donor76

Братан,отличная телега у тебя получилась:)
просто и со вкусом;)
хороший проект для конкурса
03-25-2012, 04:30 PM
CGCINC

Really nice cart! I've had the 250EX since last fall and I Really love this welder!
03-25-2012, 05:46 PM
FordSloman

Quote:

Originally Posted by donor76

хороший проект для конкурса

какие призы? :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by CGCINC

I've had the 250EX since last fall and I Really love this welder!

I even tried it on low amperage (<10A) with 1.0mm electrode. Works just fine. :)
03-25-2012, 05:52 PM
donor76

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordSloman

какие призы? :)

Spring Everlast Green bucks good toward the purchase of a product of their choice:
1st prize 1500.00 of Everlast Greenbucks
2nd prize 750.00 of Everlast Green bucks
3rd prize 250.00 of Everlast Green bucks
All the rest of the people who meet the 100 post mark will receive a 25% discount on their next purchase. These are not to be used (stackable) with previous contests or discounts. One discount per purchase will be allowed.
05-14-2012, 03:19 PM
ncsugrad2006

Have any dimensions on that cart? That looks exactly like what I would want to make. I'm not so good at eye balling it:P