I just bought a plasma supercut 50 with the upgrade 60a torch, I seem to be going through the ceramic tips is this normal? I'm new to forum's so I hope I done this right.
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I just bought a plasma supercut 50 with the upgrade 60a torch, I seem to be going through the ceramic tips is this normal? I'm new to forum's so I hope I done this right.
No the ceramic cups do not usually give problems and last a while, if they are properly used and stored. Can you give specifics on what is going on?
I'm working in cold weather, and I'm cutting 1/8 in angle.
Should I maintain my desired pressure while air is flowing or should I set it and then cut?
Thanks as usual,
I Love Plasma
Flowing,
I will post a video(s?) in the next day or so so that people can get the idea. It will be on the PP60, but will give you a good idea of how the unit cuts, and is operated.
Hi All,
We've been trying to build a skidloader bucket.
Many buckets have a replaceable cutting edge.
When we were plasma-ing out the angled portion cutting edge for the bucket we had the piece standing on edge, and we torched it, holding the wand at an angle, rubbing the tip on straight board for a guide. Does anyone have good ideas about how to cut this out? It turned out fairly good, but could have been better.
I've attached a picture. I'm hoping it works.
Your use of a guide is right on. The limit is the thickness of the cut and the fact you are not cutting 90 degrees to the surface. Try a slower cutting speed.
Wayne
Thanks a lot Wayne.
How would you go about cutting such a hard to do cut?
What you are doing there is an art form. It takes skill and practice to draw a torch that distance with or without a guide.
There are limits to plasma. This is one of those borderline cases if the angle you cut was steep. A 45 degree bevel on 1/2 inch would equal about 3/4 of an inch deep cut. If it is steeper, it would be a deeper cut. It could be done on a track torch machine and would make a perfect bevel. However, hand operation is difficult and what you did is about as good as it could be rigged. A jig could be made to work, but I doubt it would be time efficient though perhaps the jig could be reused or adapted to other operations.
Now with that said, my recommendation, based of having done this myself before, is to use OxyFuel for this, since even the smallest torch will cut a long steep angle like this at a faster speed. I have both oxyfuel and plasma in my arsenal. I use both, though the plasma gets 80% of the work these days. An Oxyfuel rig will always save you in a pinch. Also, a plasma is no good at heating, welding, or brazing. :)
Hi, I do a lot of “hack” fabricating, I mean “expeditious field repairs” . And have used plasma a lot for the kind of stuff I think your doing. I hate to push others products but one of the best investments I think I’ve ever made in my plasma set up was a circle cutting kit I happen to have one made by/for Thermal Dynamic, it was uber expensive, but I use it A LOT, now your probably wondering why that has anything to do with slicing off the cutting edge, or is it the bucket side? The kit has a bunch of guides and rods in it that you can put together in several ways and a magnet and suction cup base for the circle cutter, but has these cool guide wheels and a collect that fits over the torch head, there are several adaptors for different types of torches. Anyway enough of the unauthorized sales pitch.. What I do with this and most stuff with plate or darn near anything I need a strait cut on is use the wheels or if it’s a rough surface the angled point guide, against a piece of flat strap clamped or even tacked to the work, at a distance from the intended cut (about 1.75”) and guide the wheels down the edge of the strap. You may be able to do pretty much the same thing with the guide ring on the torch as well. As far as the angle you can set the wheels at different heights to maintain a consistent angle, I’m going to try to attach a picture. Hope this helps.
Ray
Thanx Ray,
I'm considering Mark's track idea. There's a potential that I'll need to cut quite a few of these out these out.
Everlast sells a metal guide wheel set, I think it's Brass or a similar product.
Please take a look at the pics I posted down there on my initial post. I'm cutting a bevel on the edge of the flat stock to create a cutting edge for a bucket.
Hey, welcome to one of the greatest forums around. I appreciate that your first post is posted to help me out. :D
BTW,Mark, We've got a OxyAcetylene torch but the refill prices are much more than a couple sets of 60A tips. I like Ur idea about that track system.
Thanx as usual,
I LOVE Plasma
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture002.jpg
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/z...Picture001.jpg
Thanks, didn't intend to muddy the waters, the track sounds like the way to go , here is what I was talking about on the angle. I think it was Wayne that said somthing about a 45 deg. angle, my recomendation would be to use a 20 -30 deg. angle, but that depends a lot on what you're digging I guess. I assume you're not using an actual hardened cutting edge?
I bought one of those wheel guides and found it works well, except I have a hard time seeing my lines on the metal with my mask set to 9. Any ideas on how to make the shape outline easier to see with the mask down? Many thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by WAYNESWORLD
For the larger plasmas, we have wheel guides like the one pictured.
Rink,
Generally, No more than a shade 7 us required for plasma cutting. I recommend a 5 unless its over 60 amps. The arc is not usually as visible and partially obstructed so a darker lens is not required.
With that said, I use a pair of Nemesis cutting glasses instead of the cutting shield or welding helmet. Its adequate and freeing.
Thanks for your response. I went over to the Central Welding Supply site.
Here's what they recommend for plasma:
Current Level
in Amps Minimum Shade Number
Below 20 #4
20-40 #5
40-60 #6
60-80 #8
I'm still looking for a clever way to protect my eyes and see my drawn
lines for the cut.
Thanks again.
Jerry
Try yellow or bright white lines with very little back ground light.
Wayne
Wayne is right.
I use a Markal paint ball valve action marker. Yellow or white shows up very well. Soap stone is not good for this. A marker will last a long time, not as long as a piece of soap stone and its much pricier, but the marker won't break into pieces the first time it hits the floor either.
On one of the welding supply stores I saw a marking pen that was said to not burn away like soap stone or the other markers. Wish I had link but have been wanting to try one. I also found that a sharp awl dawn down your line to work fairly well, at least better then soap stone. Of course the awl works better on slightly rusted or steel with mill scale.
The Markal has this type pen.
Yeah just get a set of two 500 watt halogen work lights that drywallers use. And Black Board chalk works good, cheap too. Makes every thing light up. :D I use them all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rinktumbody
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...0/100_8880.jpg
Put that vise on a table....lol...
I call it the monkey squat... :)
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions about making the cut lines more visible. I have two of those halogen 500w work lights and I'm going to buy some paint marker. Tried soapstone before and it doesn't cut it.
Appreciatively,
Jerry
Yeah well.......You know, Work Harder Not Smarter!Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Hey, my vice is just like that also :).
OK here's one for ya, I've used day-glow kids side walk chalk, the sticks are a bit large but you can sharpen them up, when the UV light from the arc hits it it looks like a neon light, real cheep to. This has turned into quite a thread.
Great idea!
Here's some more pix. (Alex will love me now!)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...0/DSCF4450.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...0/DSCF4440.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...0/DSCF4431.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...0/DSCF4407.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_KZM1yM3IR6s/S3...108091430a.jpg
Next time I'm in Tar-jay I'll get some and try this. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Sharpie makes a silver metalic marker that works quite well. You can get them at most drugs stores and super stores. Two pack is like $3-4.
Also I use $.50 white grease pencils as well. Pick up black as well when you get the silver, for aluminum.
The sharpie is great. I use those too. ( I have everything, even tungsten awl to scribe with). However, on new metal, the sharpie blends into the metal, though it does reflect light as a silvery glow when cutting.
Wow, with all of these ideas I just might be able to see where I want to aim that plasma stream. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by everlastsupport
Jerry
Good point Mark, yes I only use them to cut and grind.Quote:
Originally Posted by performance
Great idea on the tungsten awl. I have some unsed packs of green tipped tungsten electrodes that have been laying around.
[gripe] I was gonna just give them away since Praxxair would not take my "sealed" packages back as I did not have my receipt. What is sad for them was that it was the fellow I normally buy "all" my TIG and O/A consumables from (knows me, I bought them from him and they are the only locals that sell this brand), wanted to exchange them, they lost a good customer that day. But I am lucky enough to have Welder Supply and Lake Welding a little further up the road with better pricing I found.[/gripe]