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Thread: A few 250ex questions (including a foot pedal one)

  1. Default A few 250ex questions (including a foot pedal one)

    My 250ex arrive yesterday... And aside from one screw missing out of the back bezel, everything appears kosher. Couldn't be happier.
    So I have a few questions.

    1. The weird ### looking 220v plug on the back of the unit.
    Is that a dedicated plug for the w300 water cooler? I didn't see anything in the PDF manual.

    2. To switch between single and 3 phase. Do I need to manually do it, like on my old transformer Hobart? I have little experience with invrters...

    3. I have a brand new pedal from a Lincoln Precision Tig 225.
    It was given to me for free. It has a large 6 pin connector.
    Anyone have any ideas on how to retrofit this to work on the 250ex?
    I typically can't figure out wiring crap...
    This pedal is perfect and would love to use it...

  2. #2

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    There is a thread on the wiring for the foot pedal. I am not sure if my you have a friend that is good with wiring or if you maybe could figure it out. I know you mentioned you are not real good with wiring but maybe this thread will help in some way.

    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...p?t=805&page=1
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    There is a thread on the wiring for the foot pedal. I am not sure if my you have a friend that is good with wiring or if you maybe could figure it out. I know you mentioned you are not real good with wiring but maybe this thread will help in some way.

    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...p?t=805&page=1
    Yeah I've read through that...
    I guess I should have asked where to start and if anyone had any input on it lol

  4. #4

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    wow - I ordered a 250ex a few weeks back...I hope I have something waiting for me when I get home today
    sold my miller mig
    got a PT250EX
    saving up for a plasma cutter

  5. Default

    I'm not certain but I don't think the potentiometer's are the same value between the Lincoln and Everlast pedals.

  6. #6

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    Bill,
    They aren't.
    Ours are 47k.
    PinkNinja,
    As the manual states, the red wire is for the 3 phase. It is left out of the way if it is not use. It is only for 220V 3 phase, keep that in mind.
    The plug is for the cooler.

  7. #7

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    hmmm got home today and there was no 250ex waiting for me...Starting to wonder if 3 weeks is going to turn into 4 weeks
    sold my miller mig
    got a PT250EX
    saving up for a plasma cutter

  8. #8

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    They willl e-mail you a tracking number when the welder ships out from California. Mine shipped about 4 weeks after I ordered it and was delivered by UPS.
    -Bradley
    PowerTig 250EX

  9. #9

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    I got mine within 7 day. Not sure why its taking you so long to get yours. Probably just a fluke. Hope this eases you to know that other people have gotten theirs without any issues.
    Frank

    I have a 250 EX welder and several other machines and equipment to allow for small scale manufacturing and prototyping of inventions

    I am located in Oregon about 20 minutes west of Portland

  10. #10

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    dgarnier,

    Our shipment won't be in until the end of the month.

  11. #11

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    hmm I was told 3 weeks 2 weeks ago...
    sold my miller mig
    got a PT250EX
    saving up for a plasma cutter

  12. #12

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    I got my 250ex in three days, but i am in week six of the four week wait i was tld at the time of the order.......
    When opportunity knocks, most do not recognize it, because it shows up wearing overalls and looking like work!!
    Joshua,Tacoma,Wa
    24'x48'shop-6/2010
    Hobart Handler125w/125cf 75/25-1998-Welds perfect
    Power tig250EX-w/300cf argon-2/2011-had 4053 problem, fxed and good as new
    Power Cool W300-4/2011-works great after making hoses
    Power Plasma 50-4/2011-in for repair
    Shop air

  13. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    Bill,
    They aren't.
    Ours are 47k.
    PinkNinja,
    As the manual states, the red wire is for the 3 phase. It is left out of the way if it is not use. It is only for 220V 3 phase, keep that in mind.
    The plug is for the cooler.
    So to wire up a 220V plug for this, green is the ground, and the 220 lines are the black and white wires marked "1x220V" on each?

    Thanks!

    Thad

  14. #14

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    Thats how I wired mine up - and I just taped the red wire back so that it can not touch anything
    sold my miller mig
    got a PT250EX
    saving up for a plasma cutter

  15. #15

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    Thad, yes. for single phase.

  16. Default

    Okay, thanks guys, just got back from Menards with lots of stuff to wire this sucker up! YEE HA! LoL...

    Oh, one other thing, I got a plug for the welder that matches my dryer plug, so for basic testing I can plug in there. Without doing any welding in that part of the house where the dryer is, what tests can I do with the welder? Anything beyond see that it actually turns on?

    Just plugged 'er into the dryer outlet wired up as described, and this sucker seems NICE! (from what you can tell without actually welding anything, haha...)
    Last edited by tjabo; 08-02-2011 at 10:24 PM.

  17. #17

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    Can't do much. You can cycle the pulse and watch the pulse cycle back and forth on the screen. You could stick your tongue to the....Never mind, nix that....

  18. Default

    Did all that! (minus the tongue part -- Haha...)

    One follow-up question: I just noticed the plug I used had instructions in the box (D'oh!), and it specified to have the white (neutral) wire attached to the center terminal where I attached the green (ground) wire from the welder. I'm a bit mystified about the differentiation between neutral and ground, but I gather it's fine for us to connect a "ground" wire from the welder to a "neutral" wire of the house.... ? Yes?
    Last edited by tjabo; 08-02-2011 at 11:39 PM.

  19. Default

    Yea, Everlast stuff is nice. I really like my ex also

    You can test pre and post flow, main fan, amp knob changing amps on display. Testing the HF is doable, but a bit more complicated. It would involve installing a separate grounding rod (another thing you can get at Menards) and connectig that to the grounding lug on the rear of the chassis. Leave the work clamp off, connect the torch to the (-) lug, hold the torch+tungsten about 1/16" away from the ground lug and hit the switch. Don't be tempted to let it jump to yourself. It will if you let it; just don't it.

    If the area where the dryer is, is suitable for welding, you can certainly use a dryer outlet for welding. You can also build an extension cord. 30' of #10awg only drops 1.2% of the voltage at 47 amps. #12awg still only drops 1.9%. At today's copper prices, that won't be ultra cheap, but it will certainly be cheaper than having an electrician run a line, since he will need the copper anyway. The NEC states that wires must not drop more than 3%. So you're good with the #12. Read more here; http://www.electricianmath.com/conve...roppercent.htm

    If you have not already, download the manual and familiarize yourself with it.
    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...wertiggen2.pdf

  20. Default

    Thank you for the info Parkour! BTW, I posted up simultaneous to you some wiring questions as an EDIT to my post prior to yours. If you can shed any light into the darkness of my wiring knowledge I'd be appreciative. ;-)

    I did get 15ft of 8/3 wire at Menards so I can "T" into the dryer line in the basement and make myself a drop in the newer part of my basement with the same outlet as the dryer. I'm planning to get a welding table of some sort setup down there so I can get started on some light TIG work while I'm getting some line run out to my garage where I currently only have 110V. I think I have a nearly 50ft run to the garage, and then my workshop is in the third bay away from the location where the wiring enters the garage...... I guess that's not gonna be cheap. I'll check out that electricianmath site for sure!

    Regarding the manual, I have what I think is the current one from the Everlast site, but it just didn't seem real clear on the wiring. I mean, the basic information is there: red is for 3-phase, and green is ground, but for a dunce like me it is nice to have a bit more confirmation of not screwing stuff up.

    Thanks again!

    Thad

    EDIT Re: the manual. The version I downloaded from the website last night is not nearly as helpful as the one you linked, thanks!!!
    Last edited by tjabo; 08-02-2011 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Checked the manual from the link Parkour posted

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