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Thread: A few 250ex questions (including a foot pedal one)

  1. Default

    Yes, connecting the welder's ground to the "neutral" wire is correct. The dryer plug is probably a 3 prong model with a "neutral", but no "ground". In this situation, the difference between ground and neutral is inconsequential. I think you have it right. The green goes to the center terminal, the white and black go to the outside terminals, and the red is just taped off and put to the side.

    You can use http://powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm to compute the voltage drop at a length of run of a certain gage of wire. It has a nice JavaScript calculator at the bottom (that I used for the info I posted above).

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    Glad to see you bought an Everlast tjabo...


    P. S

    This is atutt from Honda-Tech

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    Thanks man! Now I just need for my tungstens to come in and get enough time to do some welding!!!

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    Sure.

    What kind of tungsten did you order?

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    I ordered some 3/32" 2% Lanthanated tungstens, and an assortment of gas lenses and cups. The gas lenses and cups arrived today, but the tungstens are still enroute I guess...

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    This makes me think there may be a fairly standard 220V plug I should have used instead of the one for the stove.....

    http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAVY-DUTY-50-AM...item2565f27ec1


  7. Default

    I've seen that one. That looks like an over grown 120v plug

    Ah yes, Lanthanated; my personal favorite.

    I think you did the right thing. Unless you're looking to interoperate somewhere else; with some other electrical plugs, you might as well use what you already have at hand and then spend the least money necessary to get up and running.

  8. Default

    I won't be plugging the welder into the dryer plug I used for testing it to see if it turned on, I just plan to drop an outlet into the basement from the wire that goes to the dryer. Only the dryer or the welder will be used at any one time, so I think it should be fine as far as the circuit is concerned. The truth is, I'm ignorant about wiring for 220V (I know, I'm stating the obvious), and I just wanted to do something to start my learning process, even if it was just to see if I could wire up the stinking plug correctly enough to get the welder to turn on and show the proper number of amps on the readout.

    Anyway, all I am out at this point is the cost of the dryer style plug. I have an old friend that is a phenomenal welder (does a lot of work for funny cars, top fuel cars, and NASCAR teams) who I might some day drop in on to have him lay down some beads with the Everlast. It would be nice to just put the right plug on this sucker if there is a truly standard one for USA made brands that he would use, and then I'll just use the appropriate outlet on my welder lines in the basement and eventually the garage.

    Anyone know if the one in the pic is really a standard style plug for a Miller or something like the add says? I'm inclined to believe it.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by tjabo; 08-09-2011 at 03:07 AM.

  9. #29

    Default

    I wish I could get people to read the manuals that are posted online. It would answer a lot of questions.

    NEMA 6-50 IS the standard for most single phase welders and plasma cutters up to 80 amps or so draw.(Nema allows derating for duty cycle). If that is a 240 extension plug for a welder, then it is a 6-50. The plug configuration does appear to be one.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chugiak , Alaska
    Posts
    259

    Default

    The picture shows the NEMA 6-50 plug, the one we have always recommended. The cords can be had for around $100 on Amazon.

    As stated in many other posts there is not a standard butthe 6-50 is the most common, or the 10-50.
    Thats what I have for my personal set up as well.
    Last edited by Ray; 08-10-2011 at 03:22 AM.
    ____
    Ray

    Everlast Sales and Support Team.
    support@everlastalaska.com
    www.everlastalaska.com

    877-755-9353 X207

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    Here's the manual Mark is referring to...
    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...wertiggen2.pdf

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    Unrelated to the plug.

    I pefer 1.5% lanthanated and ceriated over everything else. Haven't tried hybrid yet.
    Not to crazy about 2% lanthanated.

  13. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PinkNinja View Post
    Unrelated to the plug.

    I pefer 1.5% lanthanated and ceriated over everything else. Haven't tried hybrid yet.
    Not to crazy about 2% lanthanated.
    Maybe this is why the 2% Lanthanated ones are relatively hard to come by... So do they act/perform differently when welding, or is it really just a question of how well they hold their shape?

  14. #34

    Default

    Check out this from weldingtipsandtricks on the selection of tungsten

    http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...odes-gtaw.html
    Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 (C-25 or CO2 Shield)
    Victor Oxy-Act
    Lincoln AC225 Tombstone
    Everlast 250EX & W300 Cooler

  15. Default

    That video is exactly why I got the 2% Lanthanated ones. I'm curious what people see in the characteristics of the different tungstens other than the ability to hold shape.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Greater Seattle, WA
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tjabo View Post
    That video is exactly why I got the 2% Lanthanated ones. I'm curious what people see in the characteristics of the different tungstens other than the ability to hold shape.
    Ability to start an arc can also vary radically between tungsten types. (Such as comparing say, zirconiated vs lanthanated.)
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

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    Jake,
    Which kind of tungsten do generally prefer; or which one/s do you prefer under what/which conditions?

  18. #38

    Default What I use

    I get lanthanated and I prefer the 2% although 1.5% is a little cheaper and just about as good. I do have some 2% thoriated and found that it does not perform as well as lanthanated at least for me.

    I have two sizes that fit 99% of the welding I do. I really like the 1/16 inch for thin metal welding projects and 3/32 for everything else. I have found that you need to match the size of the electrode to the thickness of the metal. It is just about as important as amperage and all the other settings.

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