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Thread: new to tig

  1. #1

    Default new to tig

    Hi
    I have a 250ex that I have not fired up yet but want to this week. Is there any basic settings that will help me get off on the right track? I will start with steel first. is there a common or basic procedure for learning? I have heard just running bead after bead with just the torch before adding the filler rod any other ideas instructions, settings or whatever you more talented folks (that would be all of you) can give me will be appreciated, For some reason I'm a bit intimidated by this Tig stuff lol.

  2. #2

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    I am new to TIG welding also and have watched almost all of Jody's videos from weldingtipsandtricks.com.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/weldingt...22/y5di20Mtlpk

    I would recommend watching those and taking notes. He goes over 2 different Everlast units.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  3. Default

    Ram don't be intimidated by it! It will be fun in no time.
    Just running beads with the torch seems like a good idea to me. It's been so long since I was in welding school I can't remember how we started out.
    I don't have any settings off the top of my head, I just turn the machine on, and spin the dial, and adjust from there. Good rule of thumb for aluminum is 1-amp for every .001 in thickness, so maybe a good rule of thumb for steel is 1/2-amp for every .001 in thickness.


    I suggest you sharpen up a bunch of tungstens at a time, and sharpen both ends. You'll get tired of walking over to the bench grinder. Oh and soon as you can get a dedicated wheel just for sharpening your tungstens!
    Last edited by Shield Arc; 03-08-2011 at 08:14 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm not very good with the foot pedal, so I set the machine and then run it in 2T mode. I did this so I could focus on running a good bead. It can be a little overwhelming at times, but keep it simple and then play with the machine a little more as you get better.

  5. #5

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    Using a TIG machine is not rocket science! It can be as complicated or as no frills as you choose. I second the opinion of watching Jody's videos. It will clue you in for starter settings and give you some direction when things aren't working out. Definitely take notes. Oh yeah, you can email Jody and ask specifics if you still have problems. Lastly, post pictures here for assistance also. Mike, Mark and Ray and others have experience and will be willing to help also.
    PowerTig 225LX
    PowerCool W300
    PowerPlasma 60S
    Miller 140 MIG

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks everyone.
    I have been looking at weldingtipsandtricks and am glad to hear that you more experienced guys endorse it. I even picked up the three pack of his tig fingers lol still NIB right now.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Apache Junction, Az
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Shield Arc View Post
    I don't have any settings off the top of my head, I just turn the machine on, and spin the dial, and adjust from there. Good rule of thumb for aluminum is 1-amp for every .001 in thickness, so maybe a good rule of thumb for steel is 1/2-amp for every .001 in thickness.
    The amp rule is 1 amp for every .001" thickness for STEEL. For 1/8" steel, 1/8" = .125 = 125 amps
    Aluminum requires a lot more heat to start. If using the pedal, set the max at least at 1.5 amps per .001 of Aluminum. For 1/8" AL, 200 amps would be a good start. Use A/C. Adjust balance for 65% EN.
    Hobart Handler 175
    Hobart Iron Man 230 with spool gun
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
    Makita Cold Cut Saw

    Possible future addition:
    Lincoln Invertec V311
    or Miller Dynasty 350
    or ???

  8. #8

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    I don't believe the setting rule of thumbs for a moment. Any monkey with a tig torch in his hand can weld 1/8" steel with about 70 amps or less. 125 amps is cooking it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Apache Junction, Az
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Do you set the max on the machine for 125 and then use the pedal to control it?
    Or do you leave the machine at max, 250, and just use the pedal?

    Doesn't lowering the max to 125 give you better resolution on the pedal as opposed to leaving it at max?
    Hobart Handler 175
    Hobart Iron Man 230 with spool gun
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
    Makita Cold Cut Saw

    Possible future addition:
    Lincoln Invertec V311
    or Miller Dynasty 350
    or ???

  10. #10

    Default

    Ram 48 go to www.ckworldwide.com , download their tech manual and look on page 6 for the different amp setting for different material types, that should get you going in the right direction.

  11. #11

    Default

    Once you get things downpat without filler try running beads on some coupons. Get 3 pieces of 1/4 " steel plate about 6"x6" square (coupons). Scribe lines about a half inch apart across the coupons. Try to form weld beads (with filler rod) right on the line so that the beads are straight. When you run one bead, move on to the next coupon to let the first one cool and so on. This way you can get in a lot of actual weld time for every hour of seat time. When all the lines have beads on them start putting beads in between the 1/2" spaced beads. You can also use both sides of the coupons.

    By the time you have completely filled the three coupons with weld on both sides you will be making some pretty decent tig welds and should have good control of both torch and filler rod.

    Glen
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

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