Problems with pp256

[single t gt]

Well, I got the machine back. I guess warranty work changes the SN? lol
I guess I have to pop off the cover and check the hf board.. It will shoot an arc over an inch away, but won't HF start. I have to scratch start it.

BTW I received another plasma torch that was used, what should I do with it?

[performance]

You need to discuss this directly with Eric at the service center before you do anything. Someone there needs to account for the discrepancy and figure out what happened. It should work if it came out from there. Every thing is load banked and tested live with actual material before it is sent out. How is the plasma working?
Several questions:
1) what type/size tungsten are you using?
2) what gas?
3) What side do you have your torch in?
4) Have you tried AC and DC?
5) What are your ac settings?

[single t gt]

Mark,
I appreciate your help, but none of those things matter. Setup is correct. It should HF start using a paper clip and a steamy fart as the shielding gas.

What is Eric's number?

[performance]

Actaully,
They all have something to do with it, and figuring out the issue. And your analogy couldn't be further from the truth. HF is a precise thing. Little factors can prevent starts. I'll forward you on to Eric when we narrow down the human element.
Please, just answer the questions, and it will help narrow down things.
You say setup is correct, but I have no way of knowing that, and quite frankly I hear that 99% of the time, when in fact it turns out wrong. It may not be the case here, but its definitely what we have to eliminate first before we move on to assuming the worst.

[Oleg]

Mark,
I appreciate your help, but none of those things matter. Setup is correct. It should HF start using a paper clip and a steamy fart as the shielding gas.

What is Eric's number?

single

Erics number is 650 588 8588 x206
if he doesn't pick up leave him a VM

[single t gt]

left him a vm...

[performance]

IF I remember right, you had not down loaded the manual in your first posts. So, we cannot assume anything at this point.

[single t gt]

You need to discuss this directly with Eric at the service center before you do anything. Someone there needs to account for the discrepancy and figure out what happened. It should work if it came out from there. Every thing is load banked and tested live with actual material before it is sent out. How is the plasma working?
Several questions:
1) what type/size tungsten are you using? 2% thorated, tried 3/32 and 1/8
2) what gas? argon
3) What side do you have your torch in? -
4) Have you tried AC and DC? just ac no pulse
5) What are your ac settings? I tried everything

is it wrong?

[single t gt]

Like I later said, I dl the manual when I got the machine. And lucky for me, this machine came with one

[single t gt]

I am interested to hear why this isnt my machine.

[performance]

DC vs AC starting is a way to determine if point gap may be slightly off from shipping.

To high of AC balance, greater than 40% combined with high frequency CAN make it difficult to start, since it places a greater amount of stress on the tungsten and the polarity is NOT in favor of an easy start.

Gas flow rate can also affect starts. Too high will keep the unit from starting. Wrong type of coolant can drain away HF as well. Many many things can cause hard starting.

Ground location on AC is important as well since it must make direct contact with the work piece metal....OR it can behave exactly as you describe because oxidation resists the flow of electricity.

[single t gt]

going to try dc..

I had balance at 30% , 60%, 90%.. varying frequency as well

tried it with and without gas

i always ground to my work

I even sanded the work area to give the machine the benefit of the doubt.

[single t gt]

same ting with dc.. scratch start

[performance]

It can be the point gap issue, possibly.

[single t gt]

is there a thread on here on how to dismantle the machine properly and check said points?

[Rivets]

Hey t gt,

I can maybe at least get you started.

Have a look at my thread, "PP256 Q's for support team".
You will find pics showing the points' whereabouts.

To dismantle, you have to start with:
1- the back bezel
2-the carry handle
3-the sheet metal cover

The points are "accessible" from the side.
They would be easier to get at from the front, but to do that you have to remove the front bezel.
This then involves unscrewing the control panel from the bezel.

You'll have to decide if you want to go there, or try access from the side.
For me I had to remove the front bezel because it was broken in shipment.

HTH,
rivets

[single t gt]

thanks rivets lol

[single t gt]

still no return call from eric

[Oleg]

still no return call from eric

Single
He will call back , he must be in the shop
Also email him your number Eric@everlastwelders.com

[single t gt]

Victory..

It was the points. The one point was bent so far out that I thought it was going to snap to get it back into position. How that happened is beyond me, there was nothing loose in the case. Even in shipping, the box was perfect.. Weird..

Its working as its supposed to .. I am estatic to say the least..

Might I recommend switching out the point to something more electronic? Didn't auto manufacturers get rid of point in the 80s? BTW, I can't believe how tight things are inside that box.. God bless the guys who have to repeatedly work on these.. lol sorry had to