Band saw, cut-off saw, or plasma cutter

[Zoomie]

Ducksface,
I may have misled you if you were directing the question to me. This is the saw I have:

It comes with a small table for vertical use. I purchased while on sale and used a coupon...

[Ram48]

Having been a tool guy for more years then I care to admit. I have a 2sawzall's, porta band, a vertical / horizontal band saw, a vertical metal - wood band saw, plasma, air nibbler and electric shears, The type work you do will for the most part dictate what saw (s) to buy and in what order.
The sawzall's are good for many applications, both wood and metal but for precise work it takes some time with it to get good. The porta band is a must have for almost any home or hobby shop Mine is an older one and I would suggest you get the deep cut style it is WAY more versatile. The vertical horiz band saw is what I use most since I got it. I made a larger vertical table and used it both ways a lot until I got the vertical 14 inch machine which is great for scroll and small precise irregular cuts.
The plasma makes quick work of plate steel and body panels I use it but not as often as I thought I would But when I need it there is no substitute, I would like a oxy Acc torch but don't want that liability in my attached shop. I use the crap out of my electric shears to cut sheet aluminum and metal to accurate measurement. and I rarely use the nibblers they work well but I just don't grab them often The same goes for my air powered body saw.

[DiabolicZ]

Vertical band saw
cold cut saw
plasma cutter
sawzall

I use my band saw the most.

[Nikola Tesla]

Yeah,

From my little experience I would say it depends on the type of cut. I had a friend of mine that he always used a hydraulic feed horizonal bandsaw. He loved that thing and was accurate as all get out. Worked for him awhile. I couldnt beleive this guy would wear slippers in his shop. Strangest thing. My luck Ide drop something on my feet. Anyways, Since we are on this topic. Has anybody seen those smaller portabands? I was curious how good they were for cutting. It looks like you dont lose any cutting space on them. Yet they are about half the bulk.

[Canada]

Hey Tony

I been reading some of the posts and I agree with the other posters. What your cutting and the finish required will determine the tool. I believe it was Scooter who stated that cut of saws are slow, dirty and with blade wander. Scooter was bang on. Cut a stack of steel studs (framing) or small light gauge materials, sure it is quick and dirty. Heavier materials you will need patience (a lot!) For me the question gets down to which is the best cutting tool to purchase first. Which tool first? I will give you my favorite answer "It depends". My collection of tools has been built up in two ways. (#1) I have a job and need a specific tool to do it right. I purchase the tool. (#2) I just want the dam thing and have extra cash. I buy it.

#1 was the prime motivator earlier in my career but #2 is gaining!

Currently I still use my torch for most of my cutting but I am looking forward to a plasma cutter. (next tool) When I can build a bigger shop a good horizontal metal saw with self feed and blade cooling is definitely in the picture. Most of the other cutting tools are typically single piece units. With a well designed horizontal metal saw you can put a bundle in, set the cut and go back to other work. To justify that I will be going to a lot of auctions. I could purchase a small cheaper unit and heavy modify it. But with a lower end units, I a fairly certain it will be a lot of work will disappointing results. But then again "it depends" upon opportunity and price.

Anyways I digress. Back to your basic question. My recommendation for a first purchase cutting tool would be an oxy/acetylene torch. A very versatile piece of equipment that you will use. A simple torch set up can cut, weld or heat materials quickly (each action requires a different torch head). Working with a touch is the same as welding. It will require time to accumulated the skill and experience to become proficient with it. In my experience it was well worth the effort. I would follow that (cash willing) with either the band saw or plasma cutting depending on were you are going with your projects or work. A cut off saw only if you find one that is stupidly cheap. ONLY

[Steve]

The dual saw is a piece of junk. I bought one and after trying it, found out the blades did not last long even with the lubricating sticks. Then the motor burned out. I had one heck of a time getting it fixed. I did some research on it on the internet and saw some reviews that said pretty much what I discovered...gee I wish I would have done that first!

I have a PowerPlasma 50 and use it for plate steel, sheet steel and aluminum plate and sheet. For angle iron, tubing and rod I use the band saw. I used to use a chop saw but the sparks and the mess were way too much for me. The band saw is nice, smooth, cleaner and more accurate than the chop saw.

When I need it, the Plasma is hard to not use even with the extra set up. The band saw is what I use most....plus I can slice salami with it. Best salami slicer I've ever seen.

[ogorir]

I'd go with the chop saw first. the $65 HF one works just fine. as long as you set the fence square, it cuts to within a degree of square. I believe I'm using these norton wheels currently: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2085_200332085
I'll have to check the # when I'm at work today. I get them 5 for $20 at the LWS. I've found you have to dress the edge a lot with the HF chop saw, it doesn't have enough nuts to force the blade hard enough to expose new grit. I have a hardened lag bolt I tap along the edge while cutting. I've got about 120 cuts on the first blade and I've only gone through about 1/2" of radius this far. also, I built a 28" wide 8' long table that the chop saw sits in the middle of, flush with the top. it makes knocking down stock a LOT easier. I'd like a bit wider table, but space is somewhat limited. it makes 45s on some things difficult.

I'd probably pick up a sawzall next. invaluable tool, cheaper than a band saw. if you're good, you can do compound angles on square tubing that you cant do with the chop saw. I did a shootout with sawzall metal blades. I'd avoid the Irwins, cut fine but the quick-couple hole pulled out. for quick dirty cuts the freud diablo variable pitch blades are nice. the dewalts are OK, the long tapered tip gets it into lots of places, not quite as sharp as the irwin. the milwaukee, lenox, and vermont american blades all cut about the same. the VA blades have a much shorter cross section and the teeth lasted longer, but they're prone to catching and bending. they're also significantly cheaper. a package of 10 VA blades was 12.50 or so at home despot, roughly the same price as a 5- or 6- pack of milwaukee, freud, or dewalt. as always, the HF blades are crap. although, their air body saw blades, oddly enough, are quite sharp. super bendy, but it doesn't seem to snap the teeth off when they bend, so you can just put them back. cut like gangbusters too.

O/A torch is also a must-have. I almost never use it for cutting because I don't cut thick plate for hardly anything, but it's invaluable for loosening bolts.

I've never had a plasma or a band saw, but I've come across situations where I'd like both.

worth mentioning also are air cutoff saws, air reciprocating saws(only really good on awkward spaces in 1/8" or sheetmetal, but can get you out of a bind), and a throatless shear. the real beverly throatless shears are about unstoppable. the HF ones are ok up to 18ga for long cuts or 16ga for small cuts. I've done .100" 6061 with my dads with no problem, though. the rotary ones are worthless. the big straight blade chop shears are ok, but don't plan on cutting a tight radius in anything. I haven't tried it, but I think you can cut 1/8" strapping with them, though.


Edit:
here's a pic of my chop bench. the saw is wired always on, the orange switch is the power. I have some momentary machine switches I plan on upgrading to once I find a suitable relay. I'd like to add an auto-cutoff, too. the pile of weights on the floor can be tied to the handle for auto-downfeed. works ok, but an automated air/hydraulic system with an RPM sensor would give better motor/blade life.
Attachment 2075

new blade (for reference):
Attachment 2076
Used blade (blurrier one) after about 150 cuts thru mostly 1x1x1/8" angle with some 1.5 and 2" angle, 3" strapping, and 1.5x3/16" square tubing. the whole welding cart I made was done on this blade, as well as the sheet steel rack (havent posted yet, but will soon) and a small rack for new skandix parts boxes. pretty good life for $4/blade
Attachment 2074Attachment 2073

[ASE_MasterTech]

Don't see any fire extinguishers..
Ya just might want a few of those around, cutting metal on a wood worktable with particle board backer & all (once it catches, man that stuff does burn fast)

just saying...

[ogorir]

Don't see any fire extinguishers..
Ya just might want a few of those around, cutting metal on a wood worktable with particle board backer & all (once it catches, man that stuff does burn fast)

just saying...

the particle board is about a foot and a half from the table.
the fire bottle is about 25 feet away. I should probably plate over the deck with some 20ga and buy another bottle for the other end of the shop, too. I have a ton of 20ga now, so... why not?

anyone know of a good flame retardant?