Makita Dry Cut Steel Saw

[A/C Guy]

I bought it from Amazon 2 weeks ago. Today I was cutting a bunch of material. This saw is so much better than a bandsaw, chop saw, and everything else that I've used to cut steel tubing.

Attachment 1279

Look how precise this saw can cut.
Attachment 1278

This piece is 1/32" thick.
Attachment 1277

[Oxide00]

I've been hearing a lot about those dry cut saws lately. I would take one of those over an abrasive chop saw any day!

[Oxide00]

I'm curious how is the blade holding up??

[A/C Guy]

I'm curious how is the blade holding up??

My friend uses his everyday in a shop cutting 1/8" think angle for cooler stands, his blades last about 2 months. Usually one of his guys slams it too fast and chips the blade. I borrowed his for a weekend before buying mine, I cut 120+ pieces of .083 wall tubing and his blade was cutting as fast on the last piece as it did on the first. My blade so far still looks like new after 50ish cuts. I do not force the blade, I just let the weight of my hand/ arm apply the pressure for the cut. A cut through 2x2 material takes a whole 12 to 14 seconds.

[Reidy blaz'n]

I've seen something similar on I think it was Monster Garage, or something like that. So it's not just as simple as changing the blade on ya drop saw?

[Zoomie]

Actually no. These Toungsten Carbide tipped (TCT) saws turn at a relatively slow speed compared to a regular circular or chop saw. Most run at about 1400-1750rpm whereas the traditional Makita can be as fast as 5800 rpm.

[A/C Guy]

I've seen something similar on I think it was Monster Garage, or something like that. So it's not just as simple as changing the blade on ya drop saw?

The real commercial units only turn 50 rpm with a coolant system.

The Makita and DeWalt saws run about 1400 to 1500 RPM; chop saws turn about 3500 RPM, they will melt the braze that holds the carbide teeth on the blade.

[Ram48]

What is the max size you can cut with one?
I am looking at one of those and a Milwaukee skill type metal saw

[A/C Guy]

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-...pr_product_top


SPECIFICATIONS
Blade diameter: 12"
Arbor: 1"
Max. cutting capacities: 90° 4-1/2"; 45° 3-1/2"
No load speed: 1,300 rpm
Amps: (115V) 15.0
Overall length: 20-1/4"
Net weight: 41.9 lbs.

[Mikeymetal]

Sometimes the sun just won't shine on this dog's rear for nuthin'. The local tool store here in the minneapolis area Like a harbor freight with GOOD tools puts closeout items up evert SAT AM. usually a couple big ticket items in the mix. they just sold a Milwaukee version of that saw for $325.00 Didn't have the scratch anyway, but had I saw that thin slice, I woulda found a way. Just out of curiousity, what did the Makita cost?

[welderdude]

I really wish there was a compound miter version of this saw. Its a royal pain in the rear to cut a compound miter with a chop saw. Its sucks when you have to spend half an hour trying to make 1 cut.

[powercat]

It's not a Makita but I recently picked up a northern tool dry cut for $250.00 shipping included. Fit and finish are excellent and it cuts 4 x 1/4 C channel steel like butter. Dry cut saws are the only way to go. Way better that a fiber blade saw.

[A/C Guy]

I really wish there was a compound miter version of this saw. Its a royal pain in the rear to cut a compound miter with a chop saw. Its sucks when you have to spend half an hour trying to make 1 cut.

Evolution makes a compound miter saw that uses a 10" blade.

[DiabolicZ]

I would like to add to this thread.

I purchased a Lenox steel cutting blade that is 10" with a 5/8" arbor. Blade cost roughly $90. I used it on my standard Ryobi chop saw from Home Depot. It lasted under 20 cuts. I used the blade to cut a few pieces of pipe, then a couple aluminum fuel rails. After that, the blade made one partial steel cut and then just quit cutting all together.

I have had people tell me it is because I used a ferrous cutting blade on non ferrous metal. I have had people tell me that is ridiculous and that it is because my standard Ryobi is spinning too fast for that type of blade.

They make these blades to fit on everyday type saws. We had some 7 1/4" blades of the same type on our milwakee circular saw at work. They worked fine until we tried to cut some rebar. Rebar is a no no.

Moral of the story? I don't know what it was that messed up my blade, but the answer can be found in the above sentences I typed...

[ASE_MasterTech]

"I used it on my standard Ryobi chop saw from Home Depot. It lasted under 20 cuts. I used the blade to cut a few pieces of pipe, then a couple aluminum fuel rails. After that, the blade made one partial steel cut and then just quit cutting all together."
"I have had people tell me it is because I used a ferrous cutting blade on non ferrous metal. I have had people tell me that is ridiculous and that it is because my standard Ryobi is spinning too fast for that type of blade."

You CANNOT/SHOULD NOT use a standard 'wood use' chop saw for metal by simply changing to a metal type blade.
The people that told you the 'wood saw' type equipment RPM is too fast for a metal blade are correct.
Speed is not your friend when dealing with 'hard ' stuff.

Slow is smooth & smooth is fast...

[A/C Guy]

..... Just out of curiousity, what did the Makita cost?

$430 with free shipping

[welderdude]

Thankyou A/C guy, I think I found my next investment. Here is a video of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkPAg...eature=related