Home made welding cart and Tig torch water cooler

[jameswswanson]

Cart is made from 1 1/2" square tube. I built the cart to fit the cooler on the bottom, in case of a leak, a PP256 in the middle (waiting for, but they're on backorder for a month!), and my MM135 on top. I'm going to put a long cord on the carts junction box so I can just plug the machines into the cart.

Cooler parts are: Procon Pump and dayton motor with bypass set to 50psi, Stainless steet steamer pan and lid, Coper/brass Heater core, weld craft torch connector (DIN?).

[jameswswanson]

I'm not sure If I'll need a fan, any thoughts from anyone who has a similar setup?

[Scooter]

Looks good, what is the fluid capacity?

[jameswswanson]

about 3 gallons

[Rugar]

Nice job. Looks like it should work out well for you. Would be easy to add a couple electric fans in a push/pull configuration if needed.

[dirtyfarmer]

Nice, clean, efficient design. A couple "pancake" style fans would work fine, and wouldn't take much space. You will need someplace to store the plasma and stinger cables for your multi-process machine, and don't forget the foot pedal.

[Wookie]

looks good
a simple 110 muffin fan would be a nice addition

[everlastsupport]

Where does the tank sit if the PP256 goes in the middle? Looks good, but I like anything with big tires on the back.

[Wookie]

Where does the tank sit if the PP256 goes in the middle? Looks good, but I like anything with big tires on the back.

looks to me that the tank is under the motor and pump and heater core

[aaxiss]

ok I have some experience in this dept ( I have built a lot of water cooled computers ) weld some tabs along the top edge of your tank top then if possible with different fittings rotate the heat exchanger ( radiator ) 90 deg to the right side of the cart looking at it from the front. So now the radiator is facing the side. Tig together an enclosure that covers the whole works that will fit over and attach to the tabs you welded to the perimeter of your tank top. the enclosure should now have an opening in the right side the size of the radiator ( maybe put some sort of weather stripping on the edge of the radiator so air wont leak by. Now the front of the enclosure you should make to holes for your feed and return and use appropriate hardware to attach the feed and return to the enclosure to support them and move the psi gauge out bit so you can see it . wither through a hold in the enclosure or outside all together. now depending on weather you running your dayton pump on 220 or 120 you can install a low profile intake fan in the inside over the motor blowing down into the enclosure over the motor and out through the radiator. the enclosure will be positive pressurized from the intake fan and will naturally find the exit through the radiator provided you have sealed the rest of the enclosure off properly.

@ 220v you could use 1 or 2 of these http://www.cableclub.com/220v-120mm-...0e1792a3ce7710

@ 120 use the bottom one one this page 1 or 2 of them, good trade off on cfm vs db. the 220v fans are loud http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/120V_AC_Fans.html

I hope this crappy drawing kinda gives yo the idea I am talking about?
Attachment 1463Attachment 1464

if you don't like it, what the heck I tried . I like your set up anyway Good work!!!

[jameswswanson]

I'm going to see how warm it gets before adding fans, there's a lot of surface area in the steamer pan for cooling.

[aaxiss]

I just bought my pump, I will be starting my build on my cooler after me Powertig 250ex gets here and I can weld up some alum sheet for an enclosure. I also want a sight glass on mine so i can see the tank level. Then I will paint it to match my cart and welder. The Green Machine

[ScratchStart]

don't know if you have a sight glass in mind already, but any heavy equipment parts place can get you one that also has a thermometer in it...
might b handy.

[aaxiss]

Naw I'm not getting too High tech on this. going to weld 2 1/4 npt bungs to my tank an inch from bottom and an inch from top and use a couple 90 deg npt to barb 90's with clear hose in between. should suffice. I can monitor the tank temp with a cheap stick on hard drive temp Thermistor sensor and digital readout found at any good computer store for around $9, Just slap it on the pipe going out to the torch and you can monitor heat and if it's rising after a certain length of use, and some even have programmable alarms for High temp limit ..

crafty eh?

cheers

[jameswswanson]

Don, post some pics when your done, I'd like to see it.

[aaxiss]

soon as I get more money I will continue the build in video format on my youtube site http://www.youtube.com/user/WheelchairDemonZ. stay tuned. Doing a hydraulic tubing bender build at the same time so the monthly fund are stretched pretty thin LOL