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Thread: Miller Push Pul gun with the new Everlast 250P

  1. Default Miller Push Pul gun with the new Everlast 250P

    I own a miller push pull gun that I use with my Miller 252, I'm interested in purchasing the new Everlast 250P and dedicating it to aluminum. Do you sell an adaptor so I don't have to butcher my existing plug on the Miller gun? Also do you feel I will get a better aluminum weld with the 250P over the 252 Miller?
    Thanks

  2. #2

    Default

    No, we don't sell an adapter. In fact, our units use a spool gun with a euro connection. We do sell spool guns, and they come off the same lines that the blue ones do,but they are equipped a little differently.

    Yes, you should be able to get excellent welds, add to that the new units will feature off switch for the pulse and arc force control, which will give a lot more adjustability than any other welder in its class.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    1,323

    Default

    Not to be difficult: the sales website http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Mig.php indicates the 250P does not support a spool gun. A typo?
    DaveO
    Oxweld oxy acet gear
    IMIG 200
    PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    mission viejo CA
    Posts
    92

    Default

    a push pull gun and a spool gun are two different animals push pull being lighter and a spool gun having the spool in the gun
    push pull guns also have to be able to sync with the machines drive rollers
    Lincoln precision tig 275
    Miller Syncrowave 350 Tig
    Miller 250 Mig
    old miller 200 Mig
    HF 151 Mig
    HF 100 FC
    Victor Journeyman Oxy/Ace set up
    Bunch of tools of the trade to much to list

  5. Default

    "Sync" is a relative term...
    The MK Cobra setups use a ~higher speed but very low torque feed motor on the spool end, and a ~std feed in the gun.
    It only pushes as fast as the wire as being pulled, due to the limited torque.

    The "trick" was designing a motor that would not burn up when "stalled".

    I've been playing with the idea of a DIY push-pull setup, and have come up with a setup that SHOULD work.

    One method of torque limiting that works VERY well and is ~cheap is one type of sealed slipper clutches available for RC cars.

    It's basically a plastic torque converter filled with a thick silicone goo, maybe $1 worth of parts, dust sealed and capable of taking ridiculous abuse compared to life in a welder.
    (The bits cost a LOT more at a hobby shop, I'm referring to manufacturing cost)

    It would allow you to adapt a std feeder to push as long as it ran faster than the one in the gun, is easily adjustable, and VERY consistent.

    I've been out of that hobby for awhile, but they were pretty common at one point..
    Last edited by Piledriver; 01-24-2012 at 04:59 AM.

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