Do the HF points need to be ajusted

[dgarnier]

When I first start with the PT250ex the HF start was just fine, but now it seems like I have to get closer and closer to the work surface to get the arc going, its almost like lift start. Other times the arc will never get going and I just get the HF lighting bolt. Could the points be out of adjustment from just getting used?

[jakeru]

My take - do you own a set of feeler gauges? If so, there is no harm from at least checking the distance of the high frequency points, and comparing them to what is the specification for your machine. (Which I'm sure Mark or Mike from support/performance may be able to advise you on what they "should be".

(If not, may be time to purchase a set:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00999007000P )

There is a possibility you will just verify they are "correct", but there is also a possibility you will be able to make an adjustment / improvement.

While you are at it (have the machine cover removed and also temporarily removed anything else hindering access to the high frequency points, that is), you might as well get a good look at the condition of the point gap surfaces. This is no knock on Everlast quality / value, but I've got to say that IMO, the "ideal" arc gap materials would be something like iridium. (This the basically the best quality possible spark plug/gap material, as it has the best oxidation resistance at high temperatures, even more so than tungsten, which needs to be shielded by an inert gas like argon at elevated temperatures to avoid oxidizing.)

My Super200P (and I would guess other Everlast welders, but they have switched factories, I'll bet they are about comparable to the older Mosfet machines in this regard however) just use copper for the high frequency gap conductors. Copper can certainly oxidize, or otherwise form a "resistive residue" with use. If the gap surfaces don't look anything but perfectly clean metal, it sure can't hurt to remove the oxides and restore the metal down to bare, smooth copper material, IMHO. I've done this with sandpaper. (If you try this, fine grit may be a good idea.) I've come across some small files (I think they were designed for filiing fish hooks? Very slim.) That would also probably do a good job. Also IMO it's a good idea to orient the conductive pads so the surfaces are parallel to each other, not skewed. That will distribute the arcing more evenly across the surfaces.

IMO the condition of the spark gap (for copper spark gap materials, at least) is a reasonable thing to check up on and monitor (at least every few years.) I would not hesitate to do it on a new machine as well. A little "customer quality control" and careful maintenance can go a long way toward *never needing* to take the manufacturer up on their warranty!

[parkour]

I don't think the points are the sole cause of your difficulties. The points may well need to be adjusted or filed as jakeru mentioned; however, since you see the HF output, but don't get a welding arc, this would seem to rule out the HF circuitry as the sole cause.

Try checking the simple things; is the machine still grounded properly, are both dinse connectors clean and securely connected to the machine, is the work clamp tightly attached to the work piece on clean shiny metal as close as possible to the weld area, is the torch assembled properly with clean and shiny consumables? If you get a bad work clamp connection to the piece, it will be able to produce the HF spark to the work, but wont be able to start the welding arc. The HF can jump to anything, even thin air, but the welding arc needs a good electrical return path.

Try working backwards, simplifying the situation until there is nothing left but the machine. A simplification would be to connect the stick electrode holder in place of the TIG torch, put a piece of solid copper wire in, set the amps to 5, use the foot pedal, and then see if you can reliably get an arc going directly to the bolt on the work clamp. If you replaced the work clamp, do you [still] have a good connection there? I said 5 amps because that will keep from damaging the work clamp.

I am sorry if any of this comes off as a little bit obvious, but I have been confounded by the simple and obvious problems more than once before. ...forgetting to attach the work clamp.... oops.

Good luck, and I will be interested to hear what the final disposition is

[everlastsupport]

The points will not move normally during use and checking them when you get the unit and every year is a very good idea.

If they're a couple thousandths to wide I have known of a unit to do that, almost the right gap and humid days works fine, other days arc start/transfer issues. I would check them. Make sure the unit is unplugged for a bit before touching them with fingers or metal gauges.

If you open the unit (from the rear beze and cover, the best way), note the bezel is the guard for the fan blade so it will be exposed when reaching back and turning on and off the machine.

Also, like mentioned, a good ground is key for a good arc transfer.

[sportbike]

The points will not move normally during use and checking them when you get the unit and every year is a very good idea.

If they're a couple thousandths to wide I have known of a unit to do that, almost the right gap and humid days works fine, other days arc start/transfer issues. I would check them. Make sure the unit is unplugged for a bit before touching them with fingers or metal gauges.

If you open the unit (from the rear beze and cover, the best way), note the bezel is the guard for the fan blade so it will be exposed when reaching back and turning on and off the machine.

Also, like mentioned, a good ground is key for a good arc transfer.

Since checking upon receipt is a good idea, is there a place where the point gap specs is available for all models (specifically in my case, a 200DX)?

John

[everlastsupport]

Since checking upon receipt is a good idea, is there a place where the point gap specs is available for all models (specifically in my case, a 200DX)?

John

.035 to .040 should be fine for the Power TIG and Power Pro units.