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Thread: Erratic start with foot pedal

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  1. #1

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    Sounds like the same problem, man. I can't think of any electrical issue what would be likely to do that. Were you outside? Sounds like your tungsten was contaminated, then you layed on the pedal and burned some of it off. When you are through running a bead your tungsten should be nice and shiny. If it is turning blue you have inadequate postflow and it was allowed to oxidize when it cooled. If it is black or the cup is yellow you have a shielding problem (gas blowing away, bad gas) or your tungsten or consumables contaminated. The grinder that I use for tungsten came with a polishing wheel on one side, it actually gives the tungsten a nice chem sharp type of edge but you have to hit it with some solvent and scotch brite it before use or you will get an effect similar to what you describe. Also try cleaning your filler.
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 205
    HF 90 am inverter tig
    Scopes, Scanners, Meters

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    OK, Made a plexiglass surround for my small table and got a diamond barrel sander and more 1/16" thoriated tungsten. Practice welding .030" SS (304). Tig set at 60 amps with and without pulse. Casio conversion foot pedal works smooth.

    Still getting an occasional erratic start at low amp. Still stomping the pedal and backing off will smooth out the start.

    Is there a picture showing where and how to set the gap????
    Charlie

    Everlast 225 LX
    Everlast PP 50

    HF 130 TIG/90 ARC
    HF 90 fluxcore

    ATX MIG (don't ask)

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    Not sure if the LX is the same as the EX (what I have) but you can look in the front grille and see the gap. Just hit the pedal with the HF on and where you see the blue spark is where the spark gap is at. You use a feeler gage, like for spark plugs, and set it to .030" or there abouts. Mark might chime in with an official gap number.

    If you've not had the unit apart before; you start by taking the rear plastic cover off, then the green metal cover. The face does not come off easily and should not be moved without a strong need and extreme caution. You can also use some emery board to gently remove any oxidation from the electrodes before setting the gap. Be careful about the copper filings getting into the machine if you file on the electrodes. Probably follow the usual rule of not fixing what isn't broken and don't file on the electrodes unless there is an obvious need to do so. If doing so, maybe use a vacuum cleaner to collect the filings.

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