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Thread: Project # 10 from Worntorn - Side Stand for Egli Vincent

  1. #1

    Default Project # 10 from Worntorn - Side Stand for Egli Vincent

    I spent last weekend on an original 52 Vincent. We did a 900 mile trip, the first big trip for this bike since I got it. I normally ride a 47 , but it is apart right now to provide a temporary engine for the Egli-Vincent project.

    The 52 is a very nice bike other than the front side stands. It's as though Phil Vincent and his lead engineer Phil Irving got too cute when designing the front stands. They put one on either side of the bike and made and elaborate spring loaded mechanism that turns the two stands into a bike lift in order to remove the front wheel to fix a flat etc.

    The setup works well as a bike lift but sucks the big time as a side stand(s).
    I'm going to change it for sure. I had to carry a little block of wood with me to place under the stand keep the bike from falling over. Even at that it was precarious at times.

    So for the Egli I thought I would try to come up with a simple but sturdy design that would be light in weight.
    The Ossa MAR is a little bike that I have used a lot for years. It has a great little stand that has always held the bike up, generally in uneven terrain to boot.

    It's shown in the photo
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    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  2. #2

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    Here's the start. The bevel square is set to the angle between the horizontal leg of the Ossa Swingarm (top edge of stand bracket) and the front edge of the stand bracket. The stand needs to pivot far enough forward that the spring will over centre and hold the stand firmly in place when down. Same at the up position, the spring over centres again to hold the stand up.

    Glen
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    Last edited by worntorn; 07-04-2011 at 11:20 PM.
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  3. #3

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    The first photo shows the side plates for the bracket after cutting. I tack welded two thicknesses (1/8" ea) together and cut them at the same time.
    Sandwiched in between the two side plates is a piece of 1/4" thick stainless that is shown in the second photo. It will form the mortise for the stand top blade to fit into and will also be the up and down stops. I made it 3/8" wide and it has the same angle from front to top as the side plates, which is the angle taken from the Ossa via bevel square.
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    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  4. #4

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    The first photo shows the 1/4" thick piece being cut to shape. The third and fourth photos show the completed bracket after welding and grinding the front edge round.

    Next I milled a short piece of 1" thick round SS to form the stand blade. This fits into the bracket as shown in the last photo.
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    Last edited by worntorn; 07-05-2011 at 12:43 AM.
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  5. #5

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    The first two photos show the stand blade in the up and down position. The fifth photo shows the blade after being cut to length and turned down so that it fits inside the 1" SS .065 wall side stand tube. Here I am fitting it into a scrap piece of 1" water pipe that I bored out at the end to be the same ID as my finished 1" SS tube. I used the water pipe to cut first as a template in order to determine the proper length and bottom angle to cut on the finished 1" SS tube.

    The last photo shows the top edge of the bracket after I machined the welds down and curved out the material so that the bracket would fit nicely on the radius that is on the flat sided oval swing arm tube.

    Glen
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    Last edited by worntorn; 07-05-2011 at 12:10 AM.
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  6. #6

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    The first photo shows the bracket tacked onto the swing arm. Next time I have the swing arm off Iwill do the final weld for this on the bench. The second photo shows the stand blade welded to the 1" tube.

    The stand still needs the spring added, but I will wait for a Stainless Steel one to arrive before making the attachment points for that. I'll also add some sort of a peg that will make it easy to pivot the stand into the down or up postion with the left foot.

    Finally, I'll cut out a piece of 1/8 SS plate, maybe 1& 3/4" round or so in area, then weld that to the bottom end of the tube in order to create a foot piece for the stand.

    Glen
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    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

  7. #7

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    After reading thru this series of posts and photos I realized that the one step I left out was making the pivot pin. It's just a piece of SS turned to 3/8 diameter on the lathe with a 5/8" diameter head. It has a hole drilled thru on the inboard side for a cotter pin or spring pin. I'll put a washer on the 3/8 pivot pin between the cotter pin and the inner bracket face.

    Glen
    Everlast PP256
    Everlast Imig 200
    Everlast Power Ultra 205
    P&H 400 amp A.C.
    Miller 230 amp with Onan power

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