What size and type tanks and electrodes?

[John.A.]

Hi all. Just took the plunge and ordered a 250LX. Guess I'd better get the shop cleaned out and ready for the new arrival. Any advice on the 250LX will be appreciated. Like how large an Argon tank should I get?? Cheers, John

[JJW]

Hello John,
For me, a 125 cu/ft bottle of argon is enough gas to last me awhile, yet it's small enough to be easy to haul around and get refilled.
Good luck,
John

[everlastsupport]

On the tank size, maybe rent one until you find the size you will need. As 125CF to start

A 20CF tank will last about 1 hour plus (at 15-20 cfh) for TIG. If you do not plan using it a lot, this will be easy to move around, but more expensive to refill.

I think bigger is better, more cost up front but refills are less.

It really depends on the hours you plan to weld. Figure 20CFh for TIG, that is a 20CF tank = 1 hour. 40CF = 2 hours, etc.

The 125CF is a good starting point. Not to big to take in for a swap, last a fair amount of time.

Make sure your hoses are tight and also you turn the bottle off when you are done welding. It will save you money in the long run.

[John.A.]

Hi Mike, I'm new to TIG. I see conflicting recommendations as to 25% CO2. What will be the practical aspect of using the CO2/Argon mix over straight Argon when welding steel?

[John.A.]

Hi JJW. Tnx for the recommendation to get a 125 CF tank. Seems like a good size to start with. John

[everlastsupport]

With TIG you can use Argon on steel and aluminum. On MIG you want to use C25 for steel.

Performance will have more information on the subject when he gets in.

[performance]

Yes,
I would be glad to weigh in.

Using a C25 mixture for Mig is a good general mix for most types of carbon steel. Ar with 2% O2 is generally used for stainless and a pure argon is used when migging aluminum. Also a good mixture is a 85/15 for smooth welding on carbon steel. Pure CO2 is quite violent and produces lots of spatter and slightly oxidized welds. Its cheap, but not the best.

However, on Tig, only use Argon for all metals. On aluminum, Helium may be used, but it isn't necessary and due to the high expense of Helium, isn't usually used anymore. A mixture of Ar/Co2 isn't recommended.

As a side note, welcome to the board and congratulations on your purchase.

Did you buy the EX or LX? For the money the EX is my choice for 250 Amps.

[John.A.]

Hi Performance. Bought the LX due to budget and won't ever have 3 phase in my shop.

OK on Ar for TIG.

Looking forward to getting the welder on line and learning TIG; always wanted to learn it but just never had an opportunity that Everlast is making possible with it's equipment offerings.

What do you all recommend for initial TIG electrodes...which type of tungsten using pure Ar??

[everlastsupport]

John,

What are you planning to start welding with (steel aluminum)? What thickness?

[performance]

John,

There's been volumes written on electrode selection for tig. All kind of charts have been made, but what it boils down to is this....personal preference.

Now with that said, there is one major guideline. Pure tungsten (green band) doesn't fair well in an inverter. Don't even think about it.

I personally use thoriated 2% tungsten (red banded). I buy 10 packs. It holds up and is more economical than the ceriated or lanthanated varieties. It is widely used in the industry. But some people are concerned about the slight radioactivity of the thoria. But it is perfectly safe, no more radiation is emitted than dozens of other everyday activities that you do. Only make sure that you don't intentionally breath the grinding dust, which is only a minimal amount.

As far as size, the collets that come with your torch are set up for 1/16-1/8 electrode, I think. I use 3/32 because it will handle fine jobs and get into the bigger stuff without much problem. But over a bout 150-160 amps, you will need to step up. It will go down to about 10 amps with a controllable arc.

We are adding tungsten to our line up of welding products in the future, but any brand will work. Keep checking back for great prices.

A word about the torch... It should be water cooled when it arrives. It is fine to operate it at lower amperages (below 100 amps or so) without cooling. Now, we do sell water coolers for the torch or you can "rig" your own, or you may have some other brand already. But definitely, I would set up the torch for water cooling. A simple system using a water spigot can be easily made, as long as you have someplace to run a discharge hose. About 7 or 8 dollars in parts can make you an inexpensive homemade water cooler. It has been done that way for years by professionals as a easy way to avoid the hassle of a water cooler.

Hope this helps.

By the way, go ahead and down load the operator's manual from the web site and read up. The "document" in the box is not intended to be anything more than a confusing, difficult to read translation of chinese. Ignore it. You'll find the link to the manuals under "support" on the site. You'll find it under the "Power Tig" heading. It covers the dx,lx, and ex. But it has everything you'll need to get started.

[John.A.]

Mark,
Tnx loads for the info. I have a job on cast steel that I need to do, but not until I become proficient at TIG even if I have to wait several months hi, hi.

OK on the electrode selection; I'd sort of decided to go with the thoriated but was uncertain exactly what the ceriated or lanthanated varieties brought to the party.

Also greatly appreciate your advice on diameter of electrode as it's still a mystery to me. Obviously, once I start welding, it'll become much clearer.

OK too on the water cooling bit. I've already been planning to use tap water initially and then build a closed loop cooler with a small pump. Likewise, already have manual downloaded.

I'm curious. Does Everlast have a foot pedal that also controls the current setting??

John

[performance]

John,

Your machine includes a foot pedal. That is a bonus of Everlast's sales strategy, to offer the most for the least price.

Check out my new post on the homemade water cooler.

[John.A.]

Hi agn Mark,

Yes I knew that a foot pedal was included, but does the pedal allow me to vary the amperage other than start the ramp up/ dwell / ramp down sequence...or am I misunderstanding the manual??

John

[everlastsupport]

The foot pedal is used to vary the amperage of the unit while you TIG.

Just as the amp dial on the front of the unit, but you control it with you foot and in real time while you weld.

[performance]

On the PowerTig series, the foot pedal does control the amperage. It overides the machine presets, thus it nullifies the presets except post flow timing. I believe on the LX the pulse will function relative to the position of the foot pedal. I don't recommend using the foot pedal with the pulse function, especially for beginners, because it can be more difficult to regulate the amperage accurately with the pulse engaged.

The main current control (welding amps) on the units face, limits the maximum amperage of the foot pedal's range.

It's really simple though the words are complex.

Here's another way of looking at it:

The 2T/4T setting allows you to control the "programming" by touching the torch trigger. For 2T, the torch trigger is simply held and the programming cycles itself. For 4T, the torch trigger is toggled to "manually" force the change in the programming. For example, when you desire to start the arc, simply press and hold the trigger. The arc will strike and the starting current will begin. When you wish to begin the upslope, release the trigger and the upslope begins until it reaches the selected welding current. Continue to weld with the trigger released. When you get ready to begin the downslope and finish the weld, tap and release the trigger ( hold it down for a second or two before you release the trigger) and it will begin the down slope and post flow.

When you plug in your foot pedal, you will disconnect the torch trigger jack from the machine and substitute the foot pedal jack in its place. Be sure to place the machine back to the 2T setting, otherwise you'll be fuming and turn a little red in the face because you think that the machine is broken. The foot pedal simply won't work in the 4T setting. I myself have forgotten that a few times, especially when someone is looking over my shoulder for a demo. The easiest and simplest operation is the 2T setting whether with the torch control or the foot pedal

The machine automatically recognizes the foot pedal and overides most of the settings. Set your maximum amperage on the machine face so that when you are wide open on the foot pedal, you are a few amps hotter than you think you want to be. That way, you can have a little extra at times if you need it. Simply press the foot pedal down slowly and the High Frequency will start the arc. Gradually increase your amperage until you see the weld pool form and the metal begins to flow together. Increase the amperage with the foot pedal more quickly once the pool forms and press it nearly all the way down until you are developing the penetration and flow of metal that you desire. Actual elapsed time is only 5 seconds or less, depending upon your skill at puddle recognition.

Is this any more clear?

Feel free to ask me to clarify anything I have muddied up for you.

Note to PowerMaster users: The PowerMaster series foot pedal has ( at this time) a remote amperage control built into the foot pedal box. It is independent of the amperage control on the machine. I believe that in the next generation of PowerMaster, the function will be the same as the PowerTig.