New PU205 owner and stumped.

[turbo_bully]

Hello,

I recently got the PU205 unit, I've used a mig machine for a couple of years mostly making misc repairs or making custom tools and figured I could probably pick up tig fairly easy.

Not the case so far... i'm kind of stumped. First off, my settings are...

3/32 red tungsten
7-10 Lpm pure Argon
played around with 6 and 7 cups
60-70amps on 1/8" mild steel ground down to shiney
Ive tried finger and pedal
I think thats everything...


At first I used acetone to meticulously clean the tungsten and metal before welding, but I don't think that made a difference really. The problem i'm having is an intermittent one. At times I can get a decent arc and other times the arc gets soo bright and flickers that I can't see anything.

I suspect it might be argon gas flow related, but i'm not sure?? Ive tried turning up the argon to 15lpg just to see if there is a difference and I still have the same problem. I weld in a closed garage and even made sure to keep the machine away from the work so that the fan won't disturb the argon when welding.

Every once in a while, about 3 out of 10 tries I can get a nice smooth arc and puddle going. So far I havn't even been able to get to the point of trying filler rod yet.

I'm starting to get pretty frustrated because Ive studied up for about 6months now and felt like ive taken all of the right steps to tig, but I can't even get a simple puddle going most of the time...

What do you guys suggest?

[parkour]

Some things that occur to me....

7 is about the max you would want to use. Something closer to 5-6 might be better.

Are all connections tight and clean, and is the ground clamp is close to the weld area? Do you have the tungsten sticking out of the cup about 1/8"-3/16" and are holding it about 1/32" away from the base metal?

As for the arc getting bright; If this only happens when you are using the pedal, I think that is due the pot in the foot pedal having bad spots and causing the welder to think that the pedal is at max. It may be necessary to contact Everlast and see about getting a replacement.

If you have not already done so, download and review the manual; it is more recent than the version included in the box. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/do...0gen%202.0.pdf

Mark will be along shortly to give more expert assistance... but until such time, maybe these are some things to consider.

[performance]

It could be contamination in the gas. It could be some contamination on the metal. Is this possibly galvanized or coated?

[everlastsupport]

Turbo_bully,

Run the gas at 8L with a 7 cup. Can't loose there.

Make sure there is no breeze of any kind (not welding in front of the welder)? All the heat these days, people seem to like having fans running, I do. I see you have a closed garage.

Reading for 6 months on TIG is a good thing and sounds like you did all the homework, but it's probably something simple or might have a problem with the unit. Best thing would be to call in and get one of us on the phone when you are at the unit.

I see ground down to shine in your post. So that rules out some things. Mark has a good point, we get customers with CO2 in the argon every so often.

[worntorn]

how close are you holding the tungsten to the work? It needs to be as close as you can hold it without touching. This is hard to do in the early days of practice.

Pulling way back makes a hotter arc and it gets brighter. It also makes for an ugly weld.
One other thought-, Is the overly bright arc occurring after you touch the tungsten to the work? That happens a lot in the first while. Right after you dab your tungsten the contamination will burn off making all sorts of interesting colors. Best is to regrind after each dab.

Get about 10 sharp tungstens on hand before welding so that you won't be tempted to plug on with a contaminated tungsten.

I have a PU 205 and can tell you that the machine is capable of making beautiful welds, if you hold your tongue just right and get everything going for you.


Glen

[turbo_bully]

Its hard for me to describe because I don't have much experience tigging. I am familiar with general welding practices, I just don't have enough seat time to trouble shoot the tig process. At first I thought it might be a contamination issue, but i'm not 100% sure what or where the contam would come from?


I usually leave the tungsten protrude about half the width of the cup opening and I try to keep it as close to the work as possible without touching. After I grind my tungsten, I make sure to use a stainless wirewheel to once-over the tip before wiping off with acetone. I've made the mistake of touching the tungsten to the work piece and now know what THAT looks like WHEN it happens, but this "bright light" for lack of a better term-when it happens is almost blinding. Its intense enough to cause white spots in your vision with the welding helment on.

Its disappointing because everday I come home and try to look over everything with a new set of eyes hoping I can figure it out, but so far no luck. I usually give it one or two tries to get a nice smooth arc but most times it will just flicker right off the bat and blind me... I just end up putting it away because its too irritating.

What are some of the other things I can look into ruling out?

[turbo_bully]

I have this feeling that it might be related to the argon or regulator, but its just a gut feeling. I still have 1000psi of argon left in the 80cf bottle... and I was tempted to run to my local harbor freight and borrow one of their regulators to try and rule that out, but I have a busy weekend and no time to play.

thanks for all of the replys by the way....

[acourtjester]

HI Turbo
I'm going out on limb here but I have seen flashes like your are stating and it has been the helmet setting is off and it is dropping out of dark mode.
Just a thought.

have fun
Tom

[performance]

. Ummm...forgot about that one. YEP! very possible, particularly at lower amps or the wrong sensitivity setting.

[turbo_bully]

I use a harbor freight helment so its possible?

HI Turbo
I'm going out on limb here but I have seen flashes like your are stating and it has been the helmet setting is off and it is dropping out of dark mode.
Just a thought.

have fun
Tom

[parkour]

I know HF can have some hit or miss things, so maybe mine is a hit and yours is a miss, but my HF helmet (one with blue flame graphics) works just fine even at low amperages. It works all the way down to 5 amps or so where the arc barely even causes any HAZ discoloring.

Does the problem of it getting bright only happen with the pedal, or happen all of the time?
Also, contamination of the tungsten can cause all kinds of interesting things to happen.

[turbo_bully]

I used to own a HF helmet that had the replacable batteries/solor and it worked great so I recently picked up another on sale, however, its only solar powered and I've been reading some people have had some probs with them. I even tried leaving my helment outside all day to charge up, but that help any. I'm gonna go return it for a battery powered lid and see if that helps.

What makes my issue so frustrating is that it is intermitent, it happens with both finger/pedal control.

I'm hoping its just a faulty helment, but i'm gonna feel like the biggest idiot if it is...

I know HF can have some hit or miss things, so maybe mine is a hit and yours is a miss, but my HF helmet (one with blue flame graphics) works just fine even at low amperages. It works all the way down to 5 amps or so where the arc barely even causes any HAZ discoloring.

Does the problem of it getting bright only happen with the pedal, or happen all of the time?
Also, contamination of the tungsten can cause all kinds of interesting things to happen.

[performance]

Tig is best used with a 4 sensor design or a widely spaced sensor. My Jackson works good for most tig...but the unit has amperage sensitivity control too.

[Tritium]

Possibly your tungsten is sticking out too far. You said it was sticking out 1/2 the diameter of your cup opening. Typically it should stick out no more than 3 times the diameter of your tungsten with normal cups and 3 to 6 times the electrode diameter with a gas lens front end in draft free areas(I am quoting this from CK Worldwide "Technical Specifications for TIG Welding"). There are exceptions to this rule of course.

My HF helmet works great as low as 10 amps. I don't think it is a helmet problem because that would have nothing to do with getting a good arc and good puddle formation stated by the OP.

Thurmond

[everlastsupport]

Possibly your tungsten is sticking out too far. You said it was sticking out 1/2 the diameter of your cup opening. Typically it should stick out no more than 3 times the diameter of your tungsten with normal cups and 3 to 6 times the electrode diameter with a gas lens front end in draft free areas(I am quoting this from CK Worldwide "Technical Specifications for TIG Welding"). There are exceptions to this rule of course.

Thurmond

Funny, I saw that as well but didn't comment, thought about it. Figuring with the extra gas he was OK. But TB, it is a good point, try 3/16"-1/4" on the stick-out and see if things change any.

On the HF helmet, I have two HF helmets so people can watch and they work fine unless it's a bad helmet.

We were working on a project a couple days ago. Gary had Miller, I had a Jackson, my son and the customer used the HF helmets and Everlast helmets, and no one got flashed. And it was a couple hours of TIG. You are welding with no direct sunlight?

Now on the sensors, if you are going around something that might block the sensor? If that's the case, like Mark mentioned you will probably want to get a quad sensor helmet.

[performance]

A big mistake is that new comers don't understand you have to lean into the arc. Ever seen a picture of a person sitting board straight welding TIG? The cup hides the view of the arc usually and you have to lean over for the sensors to pick up the arc light.

[parkour]

Mark, it's funny you should mention that, because I see pictures of people welding things at arms length and I always wondered if it was just me or if it was complete bull. I like to be as close as possible so that I can see what the puddle is doing. It makes for a bit of an uncomfortable position at times, but at least I can see what I am doing and make a nice weld.

My helmet is the solar only model with two sensors; one on either side of the solar cell.
I purchased it maybe 4-6 years ago.

[turbo_bully]

Ok, so as an update, I went and exchanged my HF lid and got the red 'flame stripe' looking model, which actually fits my head better. I also shortened up my tungsten like Tritium suggested, and popped the lid on my machine and checked the gap on the HF start points. I couldn't find my damn feeler gauges to check the gap, but I eye balled it and tightened it up just less than a hair. Between all three of those things everything seems to work smooth as butter.

With no filler I can get a decent bead started with a weave pattern, but adding filler is tricky. Most times I'd feed too much filler rod and the bead would get lumpy and cold. Every now and then I could stay cordinated enough to feed just a nibble of the filler rod and then continue pushing the puddle... Its definately gonna take some time to get used to that consistency. So far the machine is working like I had hoped it would.

Thanks for all of the replies!

[performance]

nibble is all you want.

[acourtjester]

Hi All
A little more info on the helmet thing. I have 3 two HF (one old with battery one newer solar powered) both work just fine. I bought a miller because it went down to shade 8 for low amps. The miller Pro-Hobby is the one I got flashed with I changed the sensing and it works better now. After years putting on the HF helmet I now need to remember to turn the miller on. There seems to be a problem as to push the on button it pops the front cover out (bad design) I need to hold the front cover and push the button.
For those who have an older HF with the battery mine stopped working and I bought another. It ended up being the side clip for the battery I had to bend it out to make better contact with the battery it works fine now so I have 3. Maybe I should grow another head to look around the other side of the weld??
Have fun
Tom

P.S. keep the filler closer to the puddle and it won't cool off as much.