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Thread: Tried out my new PowerMaster226, couple questions

  1. Default Tried out my new PowerMaster226, couple questions

    I have read the manual(the one listed here) but perhaps I missed what I am looking for.

    Base/Pulse current
    "Turn the pulse off by turning the pulse current control to lowest setting". When I do this, so that I can controll the Base current, turning the base current knob will not adjust the digital display. If I do the opposite(turn off Base current) and turn the pulse the amperage varies as it should?

    Pulse Width
    Unless I have this set to the highest setting, the digital display will not stabilize. It varies from -003 to 245? Turn the Pulse width knob to 100% and the display appears as normal(although as I mentioned a little earlier about the base/pulse issue)

    Current overall/foot control
    I can set the current to read, lets say 90amps. Turn the pot on the foot control to 100% and it is WAY too much heat. Turn the knob to around 95% and now it doesnt have enough heat to melt the aluminum. This isnt a huge issue for me in aluminum, I can learn to use it this way but and just wondering if its something I am doing wrong or what? Now I am not sure I will be able to learn to work around this in stainless tubing though

    Current
    Also, I cant seem to get the digital display to go under 45amps. In aluminum this will not be an issue, but I work with a lot of .060" or so stainless and would like to be able to set it low enough to where when the foot pedal is pushed in all the way, it still doesnt have enough heat to burn through and I keep bumping up the amperage until it gives me the amps I need. Kinda an odd way to do this Im sure, but its what has allways worked best for me and would like to keep doing it this way.


    Now, onto the positives. All of my previous Tig work has been done with a Lincoln 175 setup. While it worked good, the lack of options is what pushed me into buying an inverter setup. The welds I did do in aluminum last night bested any aluminum welds I had made to date yet with the lincoln. To me that says quite a bit. I also have the welder at my buddies shop, he owns a large welding/steel erection company and I figured he could help me get setup much quicker than I could myself since he welds daily. He was impressed with the weld quality as well. However, he could not figure out the issues I have above either.
    Overall, I think this machine will do what I want to do with ease once the few issues are sorted
    Last edited by singlesupra; 08-10-2009 at 07:24 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    When the manual was written, we did not have the final form. We had to give the information that was based off of earlier designs.

    The pulse feature of this unit displays the pulse current and the base current alternating according to what stage of the pulse it is in. That is the way it is supposed to work. The reason it is going between -003 and 245 is that you have the machine wide open on the pulse cycle and closed on the base current. Too eliminate or reduce this effect, you can set both amperages for the same setting and set your pulse ratio/balance to the mid point and you frequency to the lowest setting. The earliest specifications for the welder required that the pulse knob be turned off and the amperage modulated with the base current knob, and the manual was written off of this information. I haven't operated one since they came in. I apologize, for the inconvenience. pm me with your number and I will give you a call so we can figure out what has changed exactly.


    The foot pedal isn't normally used wide open. I am assuming this is where you are using it? Your foot pedal control does sound a bit touchy. Make sure the down rod on the unit isn't bent and the cog isn't slipping. This is also why I think it isn't going below 45 amps, because it may have slipped a cog or two. If you look at the "down rod" you should be able to see the cog inside the foot box. With this unit, make sure you have the machine amperage set wide open. Have you tested the lowest amperage with the torch control connected to see where the minimum amperage setting returns to? If it returns to 0, then the pedal is the issue.

    Also, turn your arc force down and see if it lowers the amps.

    The weld quality of these machines have been cited over and over. We are proud to offer a unit that has the capability to lay the best welds that many professionals have seen in years...

    We'll see what we can do to get you where you are 100%.
    Last edited by performance; 08-10-2009 at 09:09 PM.

  3. Default

    thanks for the great information bud. I actually printed out the revised manual today and will be doing a thorough reading of it since most of what I asked may be in the manual also.
    Ill pm you my number and thanks again
    Like I said though, the possitive is that my first beads were as good/better than my best with the lincoln. The minor issues I am having are probably due to me not reading the entire manual in all honesty

  4. Default

    Sorry I havnt had time to wire in the welder yet at my house(used it a little at a buddies welding shop since his was already wired and ready)
    I will be trying it out in the next few days hopefully, work has been KILLER for me lately!

  5. #5

    Default

    singlesupra

    Mike told me you need new pedal for yoru unit .. we do have them in stock and price is 100$ shipped

    please call us to arrange it
    Oleg Gladshteyn
    Phone: 650 588 8082 / 877 755 WELD
    Cell: 415 613 6664 ONLY IF YOU REALLY NEED IT
    Email: oleg@everlastwelders.com
    Website www.everlastgenerators.com

    www.linkedin.com/pub/oleg-gladshteyn/48/b08/875

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