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Thread: Any advice on cutting square tube?

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    IF you want a good one for a cheap price, here is the one I bought to use. (and subsquently loaned out my taiwan made HF to a friend). The metal never moves to cut angles. That's a space and time saving feature. The head does and it has a nice cam tightening vice. After having the kind you have to swing the metal all around its very nice, and angle cuts are made accurately with a degree by degree scale and pointer. The ONLY complaint is that the idler wheel is a bronze bushing instead of a bearing...But the guides and everything are much heavier. I think the bushing is oil impregnated, but I put a shot of lithium up there every once in a while anyway. So far no problems...Oh and when/if you get it, it can be coaxed to cut 6 inches. http://www.agrisupply.com/product.as...6103&sid=&eid=
    Could you post a few pics of that saw when you get a chance? I plan on buying one soon.
    Looks a lot like this Sealey but I'm sure there are some differences.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  2. #22

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    That's a version of it to be sure. But I can't find any central US source. I'm pretty sure it isn't cheaper than the Agri supply unit. The only difference I see is the switch, which could have been easily changed in the new units. When I bout mine I paid 169.00. They quickly raised it to 229.
    Last edited by performance; 09-05-2011 at 05:37 PM.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    That's a version of it to be sure. But I can't find any central US source. I'm pretty sure it isn't cheaper than the Agri supply unit. The only difference I see is the switch, which could have been easily changed in the new units. When I bout mine I paid 169.00. They quickly raised it to 229.
    The one in my pic sells for about 280p or $450usd in the UK.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  4. #24

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    Tom, you have a link to the one you bought.

    Any of these http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...sl_ylhpb7c1d_b
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
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  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmptyNester View Post
    Most of the feedback drives me to think that a saw is the way to go - I just don't have a chop saw or a metal bandsaw.

    I had been thinking that I'd make a wood template that I could clamp on the tube so that I'd get a straight cut across all the angles. I had thought that there might be an issue with starting since starting on the edge would give the entire height of the tubing.
    Do you have a wood miter saw? You can get metal cutting abrasive blades for them and it does work pretty good. The abrasive blades cost about 12 bucks and work pretty darned good.
    I was using a DeWalt 12 inch compound miter saw with one of those abrasive blades and it made some pretty accurate cuts. You have to watch though as the plastic sawdust guard on the back of so many miter saws will melt. All you have to do it take it off.

    I've cut tons of metal with that DeWalt and it is just as good as any chop saw I've ever had.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by acourtjester View Post
    Thanks Steve
    Sears still has those evolution saws on sale and over the holiday you get free shipping. I got one comming for $279. with tax.
    You can never have too many tools.

    have fun
    Tom
    We had one of those at work. It was ok for cutting since it has metal guards and reduced issues with clogging. We have found that a 7" commercial worm drive saw from sears seems to work the "best". We typically cut thick aluminum plate (1-2" thick). We also have a Milwaukee plate saw similar to what they have at Lowes / Homedepot (on a vertical stand with roller guides) that does the job fairly well (not a budget item mind you). Believe it or not, my uncle introduced me to the use of a carbide wood cutting blade, called a piranha blade, by black and decker, to cut black pipe when installing gas lines. The teeth have a sort of hook on them and there were 440T on a 7.25" blade. He just used it in his regular circular saw and cut away.

    Edit: Looks like they still make the blades.. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-7.../dp/B00006FRPH
    Last edited by sportbike; 09-05-2011 at 10:43 PM. Reason: added link
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  7. #27

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    I usually always just use the chop saw unless its a really wide piece. If its too wide for the chop saw then its whatever is quickest being its a grinder, torch or plasma.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
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    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  8. #28

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    So, I got lots of great advice. I ended up ordering an Evolution Fury 3 (8 1/2" compound sliding mitre saw). The chop saw looked like it would do more cuts per blade, but I wanted to be able to do mitre cuts. I got it from Amazon in time to use this weekend (Amazon Prime is a great thing.)

    I got to fire it up today. I was cutting mostly 14 ga. 1 1/2" tube and some 3/16" 2" tube. It did a good job with both, but it seemed that the 3/16 made it work a little harder. (It was hard to find, but in the manual said the "ideal" cut was on 1/8" mild steel.) It's a pretty clean cut, but does need a little touch up.

    The manual is somewhat lacking. It comes with a dust collector bag and a plug for the dust collector. I assumed that you should use the plug when cutting metal. If you do that, you really do need a full face shield when cutting metal. It pelts you pretty well and you really get it if you're to the left of the handle.

    The saw itself is light weight. I don't expect it will take a lot of abuse, but not unreasonable for a $150 saw with its capabilities.

    Thanks for the help everybody.
    Just starting in Aug '10
    ---
    Hobart Handler 187
    Power Plasma 50

  9. #29

    Default sears saw

    HI Sorry I was out of town over the weekend.

    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

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  10. Default

    If i was you i would go with angle iron. It has plenty of strength for your application and it is way cheaper
    Gabe
    everlast power arc 200
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  11. #31

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    The face shield is a good tip. Using the chop saw I usually do not have any face/eye protection on as I should or gloves. In fact, I often grab the grinder without any of this also which a bad idea. The pieces that fly back don't go un-noticed hitting your arms or hands either. I imagine the miter saw is worse than a chop saw but I could see where it could be more useful on wide cuts.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobwills View Post
    If i was you i would go with angle iron. It has plenty of strength for your application and it is way cheaper
    Gabe,

    Thanks for the feedback (I just got back from vacation.)

    I went with the square tube because I looked at the projects page and found a design I liked. It was still cheaper than buying one and seems a lot stronger. I'll post pics to the project page when I get a chance.

    Rege
    Just starting in Aug '10
    ---
    Hobart Handler 187
    Power Plasma 50

  13. Default

    welcome. And good look forword to seeing what it looks like. Cause I am gonna build one sometime for when i get my powerarc 200 and been looking for some good ideas.
    Gabe
    everlast power arc 200
    Lincoln electric 225 tombstone
    lawn mowers

  14. #34

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    Gabe,

    I posted pictures in the "Hobyist Projects" sub-forum of the "Projects" forum. It's similar to others I've seen on the forums here.

    Rege
    Just starting in Aug '10
    ---
    Hobart Handler 187
    Power Plasma 50

  15. #35

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    I would use a chop saw or a mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. If you use a plasma cutter, mark your cut with a square and then use a straight edge to guide you... Also, just use enough amps to get through one side of the metal. I would do a test cut first.

    Remember to consider the distance between the plasma flame and the edge of your tip.
    Last edited by MigPlazArc; 09-21-2011 at 02:58 PM.
    Benjamin

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  16. #36
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    Someone mentioned a base to convert a port-a-band style saw to a horizontal bandsaw type setup. I've been googling and not really found much useful info. Anyone have a resource they've seen? I tacked it on this thread since it pulled from and was related to the posts and topic, but mods, feel free to split it or I can repost it elsewhere.
    Trip Bauer
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  17. #37

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    Search our forums. Here is the first one I found.

    http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...hlight=bandsaw
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  18. #38
    Join Date
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    I must be searching wrong... Thanks Mike!
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  19. #39

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    Nah, not you, for some reason most web forums have a weak search. Always "Go advanced" and select all and try two words, the search box is almost useless for searching
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    Nah, not you, for some reason most web forums have a weak search. Always "Go advanced" and select all and try two words, the search box is almost useless for searching
    As for me in cutting square tubing I use a chop saw for a good square cut. Mickey

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