Alternator welder

[bobwills]

So has anyone made a alternator welder? Because I have a alternator laying around and several lawn mowers I could put it on so It would be cool.

[bobwills]

Also does anyone have any knowledge of anything about what has to be done or really anything about them.

[zoama]

Here ya go... http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...4872#post14872

[bobwills]

Ok but how do you get rid of the voltage regulator cause i know that that is like the first step to making one

[Jason]

Wow, I never seen that post until now. That is rather impressive and I never thought about even trying it as a temp solution before getting my TIG. Makes me almost want to try it one day just to do it.

[zoama]

Ok but how do you get rid of the voltage regulator cause i know that that is like the first step to making one

Probably best to ask the builder in the other thread... he's the man with experience.

[I_Love_Plasma]

Ok but how do you get rid of the voltage regulator cause i know that that is like the first step to making one

Okay If it's a AC Delco "Remmy" like you believe..It's probably wired 3 phase. A couple pics would be great. What you will want to do: take your impact wrench (doesn't take much, you can hold the pulley with a thick glove on, it should pop right up) and get that pulley off. next take permanent marker and make lines parallel with the shaft all the way down the case to match later on when putting it back together, very important because it will go back together 3 different ways. now remove the 3 inverted torx head bolts (I just used a nut driver metric i think). Now gently tap the half of the case that's closest to the output shaft. It may be stiff, It's a press fit bearing on both ends. (Couple weeks ago my 1500 silverado's alt went out and I took it apart.) Very gingerly tap the bearing. You will be tapping it out toward where the pulley was,tap from the opposite end using a big socket (that is basically the same size as the bearing). Drive that bearing out, roughly 3/8ths-1/2". then it should just a matter of jiggling it the rest of the way out. Keep a close eye to the brushes and brush springs. Mine were stuck in by road rash, lol, I had no problems here FYI, I wrecked my bearing driving it out. But I was really beating the dummkopf out of it......be careful.

You've got 'er apart now. To get to the rectifier and voltage regulator you must either un-solder the three coil leads or like most of them, are welded..so I don't have any advice for the welds other than pray. Those leads are short as it is if you cut them off, Hope this gets you started

[blasphemy000]

Actually, you don't need to do any of that. Just start with an alternator that is externally regulated to begin with. Pretty much all Chrysler alts up until late 90s at least. I'm using a 90A from a Dodge Caravan. There are some 130A Ford alternators that most people use but I'm not sure what kinda car or truck they originally came from. Chevy 2 wire alternators are externally regulated, but not enough amps for the application. Almost any alt with 2 field wire connectors are externally regulated. The stock diodes will hold up fine as long as the fan on the front of the alt is kept in tact. The alt I'm using actually has a full-wave(6-diode) 3-phase rectifier although I know a lot of alts only have a half-wave(3 diode) 3-phase rectifier inside which would put more heat into the individual diodes. I've welded with mine on full power for good 5 minute runs back to back to back without problems. The case of the alt got very hot but the arc never got weak nor did any parts fail. I actually had more problems with my homemade torch getting too hot. Any more questions just lemme know. It's just a very simple setup, I built it all in one afternoon.

[Grizzly1944]

Geeze,

I never thought I would learn so much about alternator welders posted on a blog administered by a company that sells welders.

I can see it now. A remake of the Beverly Hillbillys with Jed welding his back bumper onto his truck while rolling down Sunset Blvd. "Take it easy on them bumps Jethro".

Sorry, my sense of humor got the best of me.

Best Regards!

[bobwills]

Well I dont know if this one is internal or external regulated, so heres some pictures, Im guessing its internal. Its pretty old. I dont even know how many amps it is or anything.

[I_Love_Plasma]

I don't think any of the AC Delco's put a amperage stamp on it. Just a guess, 60 or 70 amps. I have a 119 amp ac delco remy on my "roach" It has a much bigger power + lead. I just searched my self mad trying to find any specs on it..nothing really. except they are selling a "guaranteed fit" alt that is 60 amp. I believe your alt should be relatively close to that. Looks really close to mine. Kinda does look like an internal unit..

My legendary "roach" dual 3' footer CB's hooked to a Cobra 40CH, John Deere mud flaps, trailer tow package. The works

[bobwills]

I dont think so either. My guess is its about a 50 amp or so. But thats still enough to burn 3/32 6011. Be good just for field quick repairs and suck. So the first step is seeing if it still works though. So i built a stand for it, its hooked to a moter. So which wire powers the field then? And does anyone know what the other one does.

[blasphemy000]

It should be external. You see the two wires coming out of that plug on the side. Those wires should go strait to the brushes to control the field. That looks like an older GM unit. I've no idea how many amps they are but I'm thinking they're not very much. I could be wrong though as I'm not up on GM alts. But yes, your battery charger or 12v supply(will need to put out 10 or so amps to get full power from the alt) would hook to the wires on the side, I used an old dash-light dimmer switch(it's a rheostat not a potentiometer) to handle the current from the charger, and vary the input voltage so I can vary the output current. Your TIG torch would hook to the case of the alternator(The Negative) and your work clamp would hook to the positive post on the back of the alternator where that heavy blue wire is now. Then you just need a beefy engine to keep it spinning under load. Good luck!

[I_Love_Plasma]

Good question. I'm not sure, because mine is one wire so it obvious. They both may be power wires. Or one may be for 6volt and the other may be for 12. When I was researching it, I found a lot of those trucks had alts that were for both 6v and 12v. IDK how close you are to any town...but you could try a generator alternator repair shop. Or a garage that's been around more than a week. The repair shop should be able to tell you. If not, PM me everything you know about it and I can call my guy up here. or i can PM you their number whatever works sweet for ya.

Sorry Brad simultaneous-post. Very good information.

Brad mentioned: "Then you just need a beefy engine to keep it spinning under load." Remember there's 746 watts per 1 horsepower at 100% efficiency. So if it's 60amps times 13.8 volts = 828 watts assuming the alt is 75% efficient multiply 828 by 1.25 (25% waste) and that would give you 1035 watts. So it will take a bare minimum of a 1.4 HP electric to spin it. For gas rule of thumb is "double the gas to equal electric" Needing a 2.8 HP gas. then you engine ins't 100% efficient either, say 60% (40 waste). 2.8 X 1.40 = 3.92 HP..on and on.....belts eat up power... So 5-8 HP should get you started.

Sorry, as if all of us don't get enough math at school and jobs

[bobwills]

Well i have been doing a little research. I think that it is a delco remmy 10Si. And the link below shows some sort of wiring way. I read that the delco remmy was introduced in the 70s and it came out of a 70s international and it was also the first internal regulated.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=delco...w=1280&bih=709

[blasphemy000]

If that is only around 60 amps you could probably get away with a 1HP electric provided it was a 220v motor. I'm running my 90Amp from a 1.5HP 220v motor and it barely slows down at full power. With an electric motor it becomes less about the HP it makes and more about the torque it generates. I'm not sure exactly what kind of alternator that is but it looks just like any old style GM 2 wire alternator and they are externally regulated. Just hook 12 volts across the 2 side terminals and spin the thing and see what kind of voltage you get from between the positive post and the case of the alt. Beware if it is externally regulated, the OCV will be WAY higher than 12v. At full power I'm getting close to 100v OCV out of mine.

[bobwills]

Heres another link I found of what is what

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=delco...w=1280&bih=709

[bobwills]

I would be running mine off of about a 11 hp gas motor prolly. Or a 18hp but most likely the 11. And ok so your saying to get rid of the volage regulator on the thing just put the 2 together instead of hook the right one to the alternator positive then the left one to the 12 volt charge. And really. 100 v thats a lot. wonder if theres a way to get the volts down some cause thats a lot and prolly wouldnt weld the greatest would it.

[bobwills]

Ok i have found a really good sorce about this alternator. Says a lot about the alternater itsself to make it work

http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#how_to_wire

[I_Love_Plasma]

100 v thats a lot. wonder if theres a way to get the volts down some cause thats a lot and prolly wouldnt weld the greatest would it.

OCV (open current voltage)

If you look at most welders excluding the new Miller's. they have an OCV of 40-100v sometimes. but at full amp draw it's like 25-36v +/-. It should pull down your volt once you hit the rods. I agreed totally with Brad on gas vs electric. Electric's have pure torque. Gas bogs down.