Thanks for the feedback. First, safety; I plasma cut toward my open garage door parallel to my car. I welded with my body between the electrode and the car. There was no danger to my car in either case, but it is difficult to gauge the distance between the vehicle and the sparks in the video. The brake rotors came off the car in the background with about 60k miles on them. I cleaned them outside with a wire wheel and did not use any chemical cleaners. In the stick welding video, there was a fan just outside the frame to my left blowing welding fumes away from my face. It was also running when I was plasma cutting. It assured there were no buildups of any gas vapors on the garage floor prior to any sparks flying. I'll do my best to appear more safety conscious in any future videos.
As far as the manual goes, it is much better than the Super250P manual, but there is always room for improvement. I did not intend this thread to be a complaint about the manual, but here are some additional thoughts since you asked.
The arc force control has no units associated with it and the description is somewhat lacking. Using subjective terms like forceful and buttery make no sense to me in this context, but that could be because of my lack of experience. The arc force is arc-length controlled arc current. In my testing, setting arc force to 10 decreased the average current by 40A or so unless I short-arced it, which would briefly increase the current to 160A. It has more of a constant-power behavior than without it. What is the actual arc force control range in amps? There is a typo in the specifications table "Open Current Voltage". What is the open-circuit voltage of the plasma torch? What is the pilot arc current? What is the pinout of the torch/pedal control connector and what type of connector is it? This information is useful to someone wanting to use a torch-mounted variable finger control. Where are the schematics? How do I check and maintain the internal HF spark gap? Please take these comments and questions constructively because overall I am happy with my new unit.
The air/argon switching issue is a relatively minor thing, but the argon regulator to 1/4" NPT adapter I made should be easy to provide. It would be nicer to have separate units, but that would be more expensive and take up more space than this all-in-one unit. It would be sweet if there were quick-connect fittings for both sides of the welder. This would let you switch between air and argon in a second at the back end. A quick-connect fitting at the front would make switching torches faster. This is the same issue I have with my old ShopSmith. The machine can do a lot of different things in a small space, but switching between processes takes a little bit of time.
When you say "the unit failure you had was related to shippng damage", which unit are you referring to? Are you talking about the Super250P or the first replacement PowerMaster 205? I did not notice anything obvious with either of them. Thanks. -Greg