New PP256 testing

[posixPilot]

Hi,

I've finally managed to scrape together enough funds to place an order for my PowerPro 256. In the mean time I've had plenty of opportunity to lurk in the forums, so I'm a bit concerned by all of the threads I've read about shipping damage and non-function units. From what I've read, I think that the Everlast folks have been pretty good at resolving these issues, and that's why I'm happy to fork over my cash .

Anyways, it's pretty apparent that it will be important for me to test out all of the functions on the PP256 when I receive it. I wonder if anyone has a testing check list, or could suggest things that I should pay special attention to when I go to run the first few beads.

Also, I'm new to TIG, and unfortunately I'm not going to be able to afford a argon cylinder in the short term. For the purpose of _testing_, can I get a way with running compressed air through the welder? I realize that the welds will be contaminated, and I'll probably destroy/ball-up the tungsten pretty quickly. Would this even be a useful test of the TIG torch?

Thanks
Mike

[zoama]

Welcome to the forum... don't weld with compressed air. Do you have any friends who weld and would let you bring your new machine over for testing ?

[posixPilot]

Thanks, zoama ... no welding friends, just beer drinking friends .

To that end, I do have a small CO2 cylinder I could borrow from my kegerator. Again, I'm just trying to make sure that the welder/torch work, and I don't care about weld quality at this point. But, I certainly do not want to damage the welder or the torch in the process.

Thanks
Mike

[acourtjester]

Do not run a tig torch with anything but 100% argon.
If you want to do a simple test hook up the plasma to you compressed air at least 60 PSI.
Run it up to about 40 amps and cut some 3/8" metal. This will test the current producing parts of the welder at near 50%, the gas solenoid circuit and the HF section also. If you have stick welded before use the machine in stick mode for another test. If you have rods for both try AC then DC stick welding.
Start at the edge of the metal so you don't have blow back at the tip.
If you use the tig torch with CO2 you will need to clean you pants, you will get a violent reaction.
Wait for an argon tank. Patience’s grasshopper.
have fun
Tom

[posixPilot]

Thanks, Tom. I had been reading about argon/CO2 mixes, so I thought I would ask. I had not, however, found anything about how the arc might react, so I really appreciate that.

Also, I like your logic on using an AC electrode in the stick mode to test out those functions .... I wouldn't have thought of that.

Thanks
Mike

[jerky]

Thanks, Tom. I had been reading about argon/CO2 mixes, so I thought I would ask. I had not, however, found anything about how the arc might react, so I really appreciate that.



Thanks
Mike

most AR/CO2 mixes are used with the mig process, let that be solid wire or flux wire.

[zoama]

most AR/CO2 mixes are used with the mig process, let that be solid wire or flux wire.

The only AR/C02 mix I've seen in one bottle is 75/25 and no gas is used with flux core wire... We don't want to confuse anyone new to welding.

[performance]

There are many Ar/CO2 mixes. I never touch the 75/25 myself. C18 is my poison.

[blasphemy000]

The only AR/C02 mix I've seen in one bottle is 75/25 and no gas is used with flux core wire... We don't want to confuse anyone new to welding.

Most flux core wire doesn't require gas. I have read about a type of flux core wire that is a dual-shielded wire. It has a flux core but still requires the use of gas.

[jerky]

The only AR/C02 mix I've seen in one bottle is 75/25 and no gas is used with flux core wire... We don't want to confuse anyone new to welding.

http://www.alspecialtygases.com/File...chure_1601.pdf

i use FCAW all day long with blueshield 8, i can get the spec of wire monday when i go back to work.

[everlastsupport]

The only AR/C02 mix I've seen in one bottle is 75/25 and no gas is used with flux core wire... We don't want to confuse anyone new to welding.

You can use AR/CO2 with flux core. Many shops around here flux MIG with gas. When I go to the local ironworks for my steel, that is all they use.

I know this is a TIG thread and all, but.

On the MIG MIX, I use C25 for MIG, might try C18 one trip (Mark really likes it).

I've lately been using Stargon (PraxAir thing I think, yes I am finally doing business with them again). I will use it more, as for some reason that tank never seems to drop much compared to the AR/C25. I seem to need less of it to get the job done. It is a AR/C02/O mix (says something like N.O.S on the tanks).

On the DOT, I swap 250s all the time, flat in the back of the truck. No issues there, BUT if you do not have a cap on the top, I was told it was a $5000 fine.

[acourtjester]

Mike
No Problems you are doing just what you should, ask before you attempt.
With this site and others you will get help from someone you will never see and 90% will be good.
Have fun
Tom

P.S. you will find many projects to use you new welder with, on the web.

[performance]

Anything but pure argon or argon/helium, will make your consumables vaporize right before your eyes, right on into the torch and it won't stop there in a matter of a second or two.
DO NOT use blends of AR/CO2.

[everlastsupport]

Tom pretty much outlined how to test everything but the TIG gas solenoid/HF and you can fire the TIG torch without trying to weld and hear the HF buzz and the gas solenoid click. That would finish it all out as best as you can with no argon.

Fire up the plasma per Tom's post.

Then get some 6013 or 7018 electrodes $5-$10 (you can even get some at Harbor Freight on a weekend). Run a bead in DC and AC (make you you put the clamp on for all modes and in the + terminal).

At this point you know the inverter is fine in plasma and weld mode (TIG and stick).

Now fire the TIG torch (in the air do not try to weld) while in TOG mode and listen for the solenoid to click and a BUZZ sound from inside the machine (front left side).

That's about it. Buy some argon and use the TIG, no mix gas, you can add helium later when needed, but it is not needed for you to start and learn.

Make sure you have the proper safety gear and fire equipment before you start, also I would recommend one buddy to watch with a fire extinguisher near by. No gas cans near by or beer until you're done.

[posixPilot]

Now fire the TIG torch (in the air do not try to weld) while in TOG mode and listen for the solenoid to click and a BUZZ sound from inside the machine (front left side).

Thanks, Mike. Yes, I am good with proper PPE and a fire extinguisher. I am going to test the way that you and Tom have outlined for me. Regarding the buzz, I assume that this comes from the HF points? Should I gap these when I receive the machine, or just wait and see if I have any issues with arc start? I've found that procedure in the forums, so I am familiar with danger posed by the caps.

I will definitely be getting an Ar cylinder; I just don't want to waste a bunch of money on the tiny cylinder that I can afford today. Everything I read says not to waste your time with anything less than 150cf, so I will probably start there. I'm shopping that around now, checking out craig's list, etc.

Thanks
Mike

[everlastsupport]

Thanks, Mike. Yes, I am good with proper PPE and a fire extinguisher. I am going to test the way that you and Tom have outlined for me. Regarding the buzz, I assume that this comes from the HF points? Should I gap these when I receive the machine, or just wait and see if I have any issues with arc start? I've found that procedure in the forums, so I am familiar with danger posed by the caps.

I will definitely be getting an Ar cylinder; I just don't want to waste a bunch of money on the tiny cylinder that I can afford today. Everything I read says not to waste your time with anything less than 150cf, so I will probably start there. I'm shopping that around now, checking out craig's list, etc.

Thanks
Mike

You can see the point thought the front of the machine (fat left about middle). I would eyeball them first with a flashlight. Mark or Tom mentioned the .040. If they look straight vetically, and about a spark plugs gap, you are good to go. Sometime a set will get bumped when the front panel goes on. It looks like you see it a lot of this, but remember we move a lot of units and only the bumped sets show up in the forum. You never see the 100s that are fine. But they are easy to check.

The buzz is the HF point, look in the front far left middle, tap the torch and will see them pretty fast, just give them a couple minutes off before adjusting.

On the tank size, for me, 150 minimum, trust me if you do any serious TIG welding it is still to small. Unless you for some reason very light weight tanks are needed (in a wheelchair or portability issues).

I have bought probably 4 - 252 tanks off craigslist, a couple with welder and flipped the welders to get the tanks free or on the cheap.

Like Steve S mentioned though, for a few bucks a month, you can rent a set and be done with it. Only issue I would see for most starting out, you normally need a business account with the LWS (so a little paperwork). I just like to own the tanks, not sure why. I do still have one rental 250 I started with and still use it, same drill to fill it.

Also, some LWS will take low pressure tanks (if you stumble across one) in trade for high presure. But check first and normally they will drop up a size or two. You are looking for HP tanks though. Oxt/Acet/Argone/C25 or mix. Then just swap it for Argone. A 150 should runs around $40-$50 on the fill.

[acourtjester]

Hey posixpilot
I was told years ago a 150 is the largest bottle you can buy and transport do to DOT rules.
The bigger bottles are for commercial truck delivery only.
And when you get around to building a cart (everybody does) the 150 bottles are not all the same size in diameter just a small difference.
Use a chain to hold it on the cart near the top of the bottle.
If you have more than one LWS check prices I found a big difference in prices between places.

Have fun
Tom

[posixPilot]

Yeah, I was thinking a 150cf is about the largest that I really wanted to handle, but I appreciate you letting me know about the DOT rule. I'm probably going to chain it to the wall in my garage until I sort out what I want to do for a cart.

I've started shopping around locally for an Ar cylinder, and I've been reading the threads about lease vs. buy. I was at my local Home Depot last weekend, so I thought I would stop by the Prax cage and see what they were asking. $304 for a 150cf cylinder, and $46 for refills. I peeked inside the cage and saw that all of the bottles were marked on the neck by the distributor (airgas). If I'm going to drop $300 on a bottle, shouldn't I expect it to be unmarked? I really don't want to be hassled when I go to refill it.

Thanks
Mike

[performance]

We need to head this rumor off at the pass...There's no such a rule. Not any I am aware of.
You cannot carry one in your car, but if it is carried properly, then it is not a problem.
I use 300+ from AirGas, and get them in my pickup. They make you sign a pile of paperwork depending upon the gas when you pick up a bottle, though.

http://www.airgas.com/content/detail...=7000000000010

fwiw: I get argon/CO2 refills for about 65.00 for a 300. I lease. You also get lower gas prices sometimes when you are renting. It seems counter intuitive...but the prices I have checked for customer owned, and leased cylinder refills have always been lower for the leased.

[zoama]

I pay $58.50 to get a 150cf filled at national welder/airgas.