Texas

[Mad-Dax]

I am Dax and live North of Dallas. I have the Powertig 200LX. I have yet to use it (still waiting on shipment) =) I have never TIGed before. However I have read alot and am sure I will be good at it in time. And I am reading still.

[performance]

Mad-Dax,

Read for some time. Tig has a certain 'feel' about it. Impatience is usually the cause of much dissapointment when tig welding. You must take time to develop the puddle and achieve the penetration. Also, when welding Aluminum, no amount of precleaning is too much.

Glad to have you aboard.

Go ahead and try your welder out as soon as possible so that you can make sure that everything powers up correctly.(after you read the manual of course).

[Mad-Dax]

The plug that came with mine says 20a and is not very big like a dryer or oven plug. I thought I needed a 50- 60 amp breaker. I don't want my plug to melt...

[Mad-Dax]

I got it today....Chrissssmassss-in-a-box

I bought a 150 cu argon bottle yest. for like $150 full. Hope that is good.

The plug that came with mine says 20a and is not very big like a dryer or oven plug would be. I thought I needed a 50- 60 amp breaker. I don't want my plug to melt...

[performance]

Ignore the plug in the box and go with a NEMA welder plug..

[WAYNESWORLD]

As Mark said, get a good NEMA plug. You can get them at some Home Depots or main home improvement stores or a local electrical supply house. See the machine in feed requirements for the correct size breaker or contact an electrician. Not worth the risk!

[performance]

For whatever marketing reason, the welder plugs run about 15.00 or more at most stores, while a dryer plug is half that. Still, the welder plug is what I recommend.

Its good time to address the "lack of plug" issue on our welders.
A lot of guys buying welders are buying for the first time or are guys who have welded for years stepping out own their own. They are quite suprised when they don't have a plug and think something is missing.

For the record, we have for now decided not to include plugs as over half of them will be cut off and wasted any way due to people trying to use old receptacles in old buildings, and shops where the "crowfoot" configuration was common before things were standardized ( still not standardized completely). There are a bag full of 220V connections. Some are poor choices for a welder due to amperage limitations. Others are better choices, but not recommended because they may not meet code, depending upon the geographical location. Only the three prong Nema type is recommended because of its amperage capacity and its "welder" use designation. Other manufacturers withhold the plug at times on their units as well because of the same issues.

The power Tig 250 EX is single and 3 phase...Quite simply what plug you're going to use is based off your use of single or 3 phase.

[everlastsupport]

Also, some units ship overseas to the UK, Russia, not just here in the US. So the plug would be cut off.

We were shipping plugs at one time with the plasma cutters. First thing I did was throw it in a box of electrical parts and put on the one I needed. They were shipped but not attached.

[Mad-Dax]

Ignore the plug in the box and go with a NEMA welder plug..

There are like 20 or more sizes or configurations of NEMA plugs. I did not see one that specifically said for use with a welder on it.

[everlastsupport]

Mad-Dax,

It is not so much the word welder on it. But there are plugs that are common to welding shops and schools.

When Mark said that I could see a couple of plugs in my mind (NEMA 10-50R is perfect for our welders). I see them in most shops down here. I use them. Now if I get a RED unit from home depot it will not plug in. But that plug is fine and common. It is more about the amps and cost for me.
Mark might have one he likes too.

If you already have an outlet, you just want a plug that will fit it. It should be at least 40 amps (but 50 amps would be my choice) for our welders. 30 amps will work for the smaller cutters (40-60amp cutters).
And the breaker should match.

If you have no outlet, I would go with a 10-50R. Low cost, no neutral, 50 amps, and it will not fall out of the wall on you when you kick it.

If you let your electrician pick it, they might pick a twist lock for safety (at least the ones I know like them), it will cost more. Twist locks are good for generators and traveled areas with cords.

If you have service already and the amps are good, just match it (buy one end only that way). If you have nothing, you can pick what you like. I like bigger (current), low cost and compatible with locals.

I think Mark might be tied up with a family issue. But I know he will pop in when he can get near a computer.