Wiring

[herb]

I just purchased and received in the mail today, a EV-CUT40D Plasma cutter. The instructions are a little ambiguous however.

What are the current requirements if I hook this up to 110VAC or 220VAC.

In other words, if I hook this up to 110 VAC Single Phase, how big of a circuit breaker do I need for the outlet circuit?

I also have 220 VAC available, but again I don't know how big of a circuit breaker is required for the outlet. Would a double pole 20 amp breaker be sufficient or do I need a larger one.

Also there is a blue, a brown and a green wire going into the cutter.

If I hook up to 110 VAC, I assume the green is for earth ground but which wire, blue or brown is the hot wire and which is the electrical ground.

If I hook it up to 220 VAC, can I assume correctly that the blue and the brown are both 110VAC legs and the green is the electrical ground?

Please advise as I would like to get this up and running,

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance you can give me.

[Ed9]

at 110V, it will run on a standard 20A breaker (rated 17-18Amp draw) BUT the machine output will be reduced by up to half. I would use at least a 30amp double pole @ 220vac since the machine can draw over 20amps at full power. Green is always ground (verify with a multimeter)

hmmm the manuals say: "you will be wiring 110v the same way as you wire the 220v. For units that have 110v capability, you will wire the two hot wires together to the hot lead."

no I don't work for everlast...

[ewest30]

so your saying to wire it up to 110 you just wire the brown and blue togeather on one side of the plug and the green on the other side and its ready to plug into a regular 110 outlet

[Ed9]

No, the way I understand it is you wire it up exactly the same as for 220v, one wire to 110v hot blade, the other wire to the neutral blade and of course the green is always connected to ground.

[specter592]

The manual is no help at all.

I had an electrician hook it up. Using National Electrical Code its Red= Hot 110v, Blue= Hot 110v both red and blue wires equal you 220v. The green is always the ground wire. Also be sure to use the grounding nut on the back of the unit.

[everlast_support]

at 110V, it will run on a standard 20A breaker (rated 17-18Amp draw) BUT the machine output will be reduced by up to half. I would use at least a 30amp double pole @ 220vac since the machine can draw over 20amps at full power. Green is always ground (verify with a multimeter)

hmmm the manuals say: "you will be wiring 110v the same way as you wire the 220v. For units that have 110v capability, you will wire the two hot wires together to the hot lead."

no I don't work for everlast...

For 110volts. Green to ground. Blue to neutral, last wire to hot.
For 220volts. Green to ground. The other two wire go to the other two terminals in any order (color does not matter).

[rinktumbody]

The manual is no help at all.

I had an electrician hook it up. Using National Electrical Code its Red= Hot 110v, Blue= Hot 110v both red and blue wires equal you 220v. The green is always the ground wire. Also be sure to use the grounding nut on the back of the unit.

Not sure what you mean by "be sure to use the grounding nut on the back of the unit." Just run a wire from the nut to an external ground? Thanks.
Jerry

[I_Love_Plasma]

Not sure what you mean by "be sure to use the grounding nut on the back of the unit." Just run a wire from the nut to an external ground? Thanks.
Jerry

It's a high frequency ground. It's there for the high freqs affecting your generators or fluorescent light bulbs. It grounds out any interference. I'm pretty sure it needs to be hooked to a "Faraday Cage". I don't use it, seems to work fine W/O it.

[performance]

It is a high frequency ground, but it should be connected to a separate ground rod driven into the earth. Do not ground it to the TABLE! or ground it to your PANEL BOX! This should be a separate wire running direct to an earth ground that is not shared with any other ground.

It is not 100% necessary, but the HF can interfere with components around you.

[rinktumbody]

It is a high frequency ground, but it should be connected to a separate ground rod driven into the earth. Do not ground it to the TABLE! or ground it to your PANEL BOX! This should be a separate wire running direct to an earth ground that is not shared with any other ground.

It is not 100% necessary, but the HF can interfere with components around you.

Thanks. Since I know the cord is grounded, I'm going to see if I get interference without the chassis ground.

Speaking of the cord, here's an update: I just bought 15 feet of 220V, 4-wire cord, a box of red connector caps, and a 4-wire dryer plug . Total cost for wire and plug was $49 at Home Depot. Electrician, they told me, would have cost $100 per hour (plus parts) to put in a new breaker and outlet in my garage. I'll plug it into my dryer outlet (connects to 30 amp breaker) tomorrow and see how it works.

One of your staff mentioned an online, upgraded manual for the Cut50. Is that here on the Forum? Appreciate all the support!
Jerry

[performance]

We don't sell the cut 50 any longer.

Its now a Supercut 50 as there are differences internally than the old ones. However, the Supercuts function nearly the same as the older ones and the manuals are fine for Supercuts

[rinktumbody]

We don't sell the cut 50 any longer.

Its now a Supercut 50 as there are differences internally than the old ones. However, the Supercuts function nearly the same as the older ones and the manuals are fine for Supercuts

I have the Supercut 50, just dropped a bit in the memory department Is there an improved online manual for this model? (one that talks about maintenance and troubleshooting) Thanks.
Jerry

[performance]

Jerry,

No, honestly, we still use the older manuals for the supercuts. I am revising the PowerPlasma manuals now, but there are differences in supercuts and the PowerPlasmas. I have an older cut 50 Everlast unit. It is really a solid performer, though the unit I have has the older ESAB style HF torch and isn't quite as powerful. But when it comes to operation, it is very similar except it does not have the digital meter.

[rinktumbody]

Thanks. Since I know the cord is grounded, I'm going to see if I get interference without the chassis ground.

Speaking of the cord, here's an update: I just bought 15 feet of 220V, 4-wire cord, a box of red connector caps, and a 4-wire dryer plug . Total cost for wire and plug was $49 at Home Depot. Electrician, they told me, would have cost $100 per hour (plus parts) to put in a new breaker and outlet in my garage. I'll plug it into my dryer outlet (connects to 30 amp breaker) tomorrow and see how it works.

One of your staff mentioned an online, upgraded manual for the Cut50. Is that here on the Forum? Appreciate all the support!
Jerry

My first attempt at the wiring was wrong, simply wrong. Here's an account of how I found out to do it the right way:

March 1, 2010
Okay, I’ve got to post this and eat some crow. Following directions from another site, I proceeded to wire a new dryer plug and then connect the four-wire 220 cord to the three wires of my Supercut50 plasma cutter. I closed the switch on the ’50 and then flipped the breaker on my panel. Sparks and a loud snap. Everything in the house went off.

Tried to reset the box breaker and found it wouldn’t reset. Called the electric company, it was getting late and dark and that frozen fish in the freezer wouldn’t stay frozen for long. The electric company guy showed up as the sun was going down and showed me the second breaker on the outside of the house. Duh! Flipped it and everything returned, except the dryer breaker, which was turned off. Then he looked at my wiring and said No way.

I rewired it his way and guess what? It worked. For your edification here’s the way the darned thing should really be wired.

Dryer plug cord (4 wires) Supercut 50 cord (three wires)
Red---------------------------------------White
Black--------------------------------------Black
Green-------------------------------------Green
White (neutral): don't use, just tape/cap it off.

Hope this helps you get your 4-wire 220 wired to your 3-wire Supercut 50. If you decide to run a 220 extension and put a plug on it, turn off the 220 breaker when you’re working on things, and don’t connect to your plasma cutter until you’ve tested each wire with a multimeter.

[performance]

Really,

You shouldn't wire both green ground and white common together. Use only the green ground wire, or use a different outlet, which is the best alternative.

Most 220 circuits with 2 conductors use black and white for the 220 legs, just as regular 2 conductor house wiring does for 220. Three phase circuitry is usually where they change the wiring colors around with a third conductor in the mix. Though a red/black/green combination is okay, its not the color standard for two wire conductors. Please check with your local codes first, but I would suggest you not use the white wire in combination with the green. Simply tape or cap it. Again, consult your local codes, but the white is usually used in a four wire system to serve as the common so that a small 110 circuit can function within a larger 220V appliance, such as a stove clock, or some sort of timer. Connecting the white and the green together can cause issues, I would think, with other circuits,and the benefit of the safety of the ground would be lost just as it would in a 110V circuit if the green and the common were tied together.

[rinktumbody]

Really,

You shouldn't wire both green ground and white common together. Use only the green ground wire, or use a different outlet, which is the best alternative.

Most 220 circuits with 2 conductors use black and white for the 220 legs, just as regular 2 conductor house wiring does for 220. Three phase circuitry is usually where they change the wiring colors around with a third conductor in the mix. Though a red/black/green combination is okay, its not the color standard for two wire conductors. Please check with your local codes first, but I would suggest you not use the white wire in combination with the green. Simply tape or cap it. Again, consult your local codes, but the white is usually used in a four wire system to serve as the common so that a small 110 circuit can function within a larger 220V appliance, such as a stove clock, or some sort of timer. Connecting the white and the green together can cause issues, I would think, with other circuits,and the benefit of the safety of the ground would be lost just as it would in a 110V circuit if the green and the common were tied together.

Thanks, Mark. I have yet to actually use the cut function, only turned the unit on and saw the LEDs light and adjust and heard the fan running. I'll cap off the white and see if everything still works. Don't have another outlet.

[shawn]

there should be a nameplate somewhere on the machine that gives voltage/amperage take a picture of that and post it. i'd suggest you use the 220 volt because the unit will run better but i don't know if you have to change any of the wiring internally to do that, on alot of multivoltage stuff you have to rewire to run on the higher voltage because they assume everybody will run 120v

[rinktumbody]

there should be a nameplate somewhere on the machine that gives voltage/amperage take a picture of that and post it. i'd suggest you use the 220 volt because the unit will run better but i don't know if you have to change any of the wiring internally to do that, on alot of multivoltage stuff you have to rewire to run on the higher voltage because they assume everybody will run 120v

Not sure why you suggested that I post a photo of the nameplate? There is a decal on the top that lists the info. Didn't change the internal wiring to get it to run on 220, since it's set up to do that, and would automatically detect 110.

You're right. I decided to go with the 220 volts, Shawn. I was sorely tempted to just use a 110 plug and outlet then remembered how wimpy another plasma cutter was that ran on 110. Mostly I cut 20-24 gauge sheet metal, but my guess is cutting will go faster with 220 and I'll be ready if I need to cut something thicker.

[Rodsmachineshop]

My dad was a electrician . wiring is = black is power white is neitral and green is ground . never conect white and green together since if a outlet was not wired rite it will short or damage what ever you plug into it. brass colored lug on plug socket is always power black , silver lug on power socket is neitral white wire . green is ground . this is for single phase 220v . When i install a sub box i alway install a earth ground on box also thats a seperate ground from box with a 6 gauge wire atached to a long piece of rebar driven into the ground so you wont get spikes if you are in a thunder storm area .

[shawn]

i suggested he post the nameplate picture because some people don't know how to read it correctly and it has all the voltage/amperage info on it. i was gonna help him out by giving him the correct wire and breaker size to run the unit on. i've seen other posts on this site where people are not wiring their house right for their new welder and would hate to see more people do the same thing.