Video demonstrations

[performance]

Roadmyi,

I will be glad to answer and go through your questions so you can see how the difficult it is with giving specifics about welding settings. We are here to answer your questions...That is not a problem at all...all you need to do is ask specifically as best you can and I or Mike will detail the answers as best as possible...

So here goes.
1) Gas Flow Rate. Gas flow rate is entirely dependant upon metal type, amperage range, indoors or outdoors, weld position, weave technique(or the lack thereof) and operator skill , nozzle size and stick out. A good starting point is somewhere between 15 and 40 cfh(cubic feet per hour...there are metric converters on the web if you are using a lpm or lph gauge) depending upon these conditions. To determine exact setting necessary, set all other parameters on the machine, and then begin welding somewhere in that range. Gradually reduce the gas until you notice slight oxidation and minor pinholing of the weld. Gradually increase the gas flow until the discoloration of the weld dissapears,(dull gray steel begins to get shiny and the black sootiness is gone for the aluminum). When it dissappears, add 3-5 cfh to this to give insurance against drafts, fans or any unforseen condition that may cause the shielding gas to blow off the weld. If it is in out of position welding, remember the flow rate must be increased because Argon is heavier than air and sinks rapidly. In this case, a Helium/Argon Mix may be used and an additional cfh is needed if using HeAr for down hand welding if this gas is to be used exclusively without pure argon.
Personally, I get great results with 15-20 cfh in an enclosed shop on steel and with a number 6 welding cup and find that 25-35 cfh is necessary outside, sometimes 40 if there is a breeze. A larger cup will necessitate a larger gas flow. For the metric flow meters, the range should be about 5-20 lpm.

2) Ball Park amperage... Again, ballpark amperage depends upon metal type, position, weave technique and operator skill and electrode size and type and polarity. Amp The best welding charts center the amperage around the electrode size , composition, nozzle diameter, gas flow and not the metal thickness and are pages long. However, a ball park figure for a 1/16 thoriated tungsten with 15-20 cfh flow with argon in a down hand position with a pointed tip with DCEN is somewhere between 50-100 amps with a 3/8 inch nozzle size(internal) with a ER70S-3 1/16-3/32 filler rod. A 3/32 electrode with DCEN, sharpened to a point, with argon and 15-20 cfh with a 3/8 nozzle and a ER 70s-3 with argon is approximately 70-150 amps with 1/16-3/32 filler metal. A 1/8 inch electrode of same composition, pointed,with DCEN is good for 90-250 amps with 20-25 cfh with a 1/2 inch nozzle and 3/32-1/8 ER70S-3 filler rod with argon.

Now, with that said, if you change any one variable, the recommendation may change, particularly with Aluminum or Stainless.

There are "welding calculators" on the web, that will spoon feed the info to you, but they are notoriously inaccurate and can be off up to 30-40 percent because they do not take into account the limitless number of variables involved. I personally have to experiment briefly every time I weld to make sure that the settings are performing correctly before I begin welding...Also, keep in mind every machine and every brand welds with a different "sweet spot"...

3. Filler material selection has a endless number of variables involved including fitup, spec for the material being welded, desired finish, root gap, presence of back purging, joint prep, position , mill scale, oxidation and overall operator skill. If you can give me a specific question about your conditions and include as much information about the above conditions, I can help on a case by case issue...

4. The "flash" occurs sometime before puddle development. The operator's manual actually gives a good detail on how to start a weld...Slowly circle the torch once the arc is initiated, steadily but methodically, sweeping the electrode from edge to edge until the puddle "wets" in without EVER touching the base metal. Wetting in is a little difficult to explain until you see it. When you see it, its an AHA! moment and you will recognize it. Basically it is where you can drop a bead of filler metal onto the base material and it flows into the metal instead of standing on top of the metal. It flows like thick water and completely blends into the molten metal which is smoothly joined to the sides of the parent material. If a puddle won't "wet" in, increase amperage, change electrodes sizes (go down), or slow down your sweeping motion. Once the puddle begins to form a "kehole" like a skeleton key, where the metal begins to "open" up in the center slightly ahead of the weld pool and it has a nice little round hole ahead of the weld. Then you may slowly progress the weld, keeping the puddle molten and the torch constantly "mending" or "stitching" the sides of the joint to maintain an appropriate puddle and weave. Sometimes, depending upon the joint design, metal, filler and gap, no weaving will be required, unless you are operating at too low of an amperage.

5. Tips for welding out of position... Get comfortable, brace off, and wear your leathers. Use the force of the arc to hold the molten metal "plastered" in place, and maintain a short arc as possible, looking always for the keyhole and promptly adding filler before the keyhole gets too large. Adding the filler flat in the groove may be done to keep it from being a moving variable that is difficult to control... Weld up hill...For overhead, weld similar to flat, but paying attention to droops and quickly moving when one starts to form. Horizontal can be tricky as it requires more consentration and attention to keep the metal from "sagging" from gravity. Keep a tight arc, add the filler while the torch is pointed about 15 degrees upward.


I know this isn't exhaustive, and may not even be helpful, for I have tons more of material to discuss. But maybe you can see that welding is not going to be an overnight skill...But if you do have further questions, just ask...but be specific as possible so that the best answer can be given.

I forsee the next question being: But some other guys do it...They give great little charts, and calculators etc. Why do they do it then? This has arisen from the demand such as this...to have "something" that beginners can easily digest to broaden their market base.

But it has led to a lot of misinformation and frustration on the part of new welders...and you know that misinformation spreads faster than gossip about the organist's drinking problem at church. The misinformation comes from not understanding that these recomendations are made under ideal conditions with pro welders at the torch. The new guys take this at the gospel truth and tell their buddies how to do it...and swear by it because the chart on his welder said so. What isn't ever realized is that most likely the welding conditions hardly ever call for that exact setting. These guys never really get to venture off the page because they believe that there is only 1 setting that will make the weld and they never get their skills developed by having to compenesate with technique and talent to make a weld under poor conditions or with a poorly selected adjustment on the machine. For instance: A welder is trying to make a weld joining 1/8 inch metal to 1/4 inch metal...what amperage does he use, does he walk a 100 feet back to the machine to reset the machine for a 4 inch weld when he has been welding almost exclusively 1/4" plate and has the machine where he likes it? Or does he know how to compensate with his technique and skill to properly fuse both metals? A by the book solution would be to make the amperage change to the 1/8 amperage level. A practical solution would be to concentrate the heat onto the 1/4 plate and gently "wash" the weld into the 1/8 sheet.

I guess, I have said all of that to say this...I am glad to answer any and all questions... and likely one day we will give a one size fits all chart or calculator, but the problem is that it really does the new welder no long term favors. Sure there are minimum and maximum amperages for metal, electrodes, filler rods etc, but the combination is virtually endless unless you use a fixed logarythm that can't compensate for other variables. So please bare with us as we work on providing the information you seek.

[jericho777]

Very well done Mark and a great help. You should copy this to the Knowledge section.

[roadymi]

Mark,
That is precisely what I wanted. Benchmarks to begin with. I am pretty sure that it will take much trial and many errors before I feel comfortable using the tig for anything life dependent. At least you have given me a jumping off point.

Thanks for the time you put into your response.

[everlastsupport]

This is very good information for someone starting out.

The ranges are perfect, the details on the pool, wetting and key are perfect so you know what to look for as you learn. You will see them if you are in those ranges.

If you read the first and last paragraph, I think Mark wanted that posted here to make a starting point for people asking for information.

We can not make a video or chart that will match each person, unit and environment. But this is good for the people that are doing TIG. We simply want you to ask on the forum and we can advise.

You need to practice (experiment). That is the only way you will learn to weld.

Mark will probably tweak it up and re-post in that area, though it is very clear and it can be copied as it is.

[smackdaddy]

This is a good time to mention that there is a lot of "free" information out there on what the basic controls do...A video can show you how to turn the knob and some basic demonstration of technique, but no matter how good, someone will find fault for "lacking" the particular piece of information that they wanted to know...same as the manual.

What a lot of guys are expecting, I fear is a years worth of theory, condensed down into a 1,2,3 do this, do that scenario. Welding just isn't that way guys. It takes years of practice, skill, training and retraining to get good and stay good. Welding is a skill...Skills are learned by doing, skills are kept sharp by doing. No video can adequately teach skill. A lot of variables enter into "recommendations" that some mfgr's offer and in fact, are sometimes not even in the ballpark. For expample, I have talked to "welders in training" who were having trouble with running a bead. They come to me because they know I can weld. They ask me what they are doing wrong. I ask them their settings. They give me boiler plate,standard issue settings. I can tell many are welding too cold, and a few too hot for their talent and skills. They are usually rather frustrated when I explain that the "heat" isn't correct. They almost invariably reply: That's what the book says, or that's what the machine says, or that's where the instructor told me to weld. I'll go into a booth with them and "max" out the machine for the electrode and lay a perfect bead, then I'll go and lay a bead at the minimum range for the electrode and lay another perfect bead. But for a new guy who hasn't developed the skill to weld or doesn't understand what's going on in the machine he is welding with, its frustrating to have a "preset" notion of if I can't weld at that recommendation, then something is wrong with my welding, when all he needs to do is experiment with a more comfortable amperage that gets the job done. In the field, sure there are regulations specifying amperage range and preheat and post heat requirements...but not when one is learning. But the greatest handicap in welding can be the unquestioning reliance upon the " book" settings.

The "punch" button machines are no more difficult to understand or run than your typical microwave...the problem is that most people don't read the owners manual to find out what to punch to keep the popcorn from burning...same is true with our welders. The manuals are designed to give a "heads up" discussion and not a welding primer. Typical welding books are in excess of 500 pages, that just begin to scratch the surface. While yes, a video will give some more clarity, it won't answer every question or every situation or problem encountered. It will likely cover basic technique and functions of the machines in a visual/ audio form. So, this is where YOU come in...You must practice, practice, practice, if you aren't familiar with the units or its capabilities...In so doing, experimentation is necessary.

If you don't like to experiment, or read, I doubt a welding video will be much of a help either. Welding is not an exact science....though some would disagree, it is a descendant of the great ART of blacksmithing,a trade that now has many "videos" about how-to.. But because one watches a video about it doesn't qualify one as a blacksmith, nor does one gain intimate knowlege of the art. The only way is to begin to experiment, and find out what works for you.

Most of our welders are quite advanced in features. I expect that we will have a dumbed" down AC/DC machine in the near future, but even then, proficiency will not be infused by a welding video...

(dumbed down) thats funny sht right there

[jericho777]

I was just on an automotive forum ( www.dsmtuners.com ) and someone posted a link to a welding info site. I checked it out and a lot of TIG videos and tech tips! I think it's worth taking a peek at. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/index.html

[WAYNESWORLD]

That's a great site, lots of good info.
Wayne

[I_Love_Plasma]

Mike, is there a way for me to post, on this forum, my videos of my Cut50?

The 50 is in credible! Works very well, it's all I expected!

Also, why does the manual say not to cut barrels? I'm guessing flammability and toxic gases from chemicals and paint. If this is true, I can cut clean dry barrels?

I LOVE PLASMA

[everlastsupport]

Mike, is there a way for me to post, on this forum, my videos of my Cut50?

The 50 is in credible! Works very well, it's all I expected!

Also, why does the manual say not to cut barrels? I'm guessing flammability and toxic gases from chemicals and paint. If this is true, I can cut clean dry barrels?

I LOVE PLASMA

You would need to put your video on youtube and post a link to it. There is a limit on the attachments sizes.

On the barrel. What was in the barrel would be the first question I would address. If oils, you can steam clean it or rinse the barrel with dish soap and water. There is also a risk of explosion on sealed or almost sealed vessels. So be very careful if "you" choose to attempt it. I recommend not.

If you are in doubt about it, pass on it. Some people also fill the barrel with water (cheap solution compared to using an inert gas). Maybe water and a air grinder/ is a better choice.

Do some googling and see if there is better safe advice.

[everlastsupport]

I LOVE PLASMA,

Forgot to say, glad you like the unit. And thanks for the comments.

Post up the video and picture.

Also, make sure you read the safety part of the manual

[performance]

The biggest risk with barrel cutting is that many residues bond to the metal and cannot be "washed" out...Certain cleaners, and solvents are capable of producing a deadly "puff" of gas that can kill quickly and painfully...If you do cut a drum or barrel, make sure you investigate the history of the barrel thouroughly and don't risk it if you cannot.

Another common item of years past is pesticide. Many older drums held pesticide that would cling to the metal no matter the amount of washing.


Be very careful if you decide to risk cutting a barrel. I can't recommend that you cut one, but if you do....

[Mikenstein]

One of the ways that I have found to be safe while cutting barrels, gas tanks, or other questionable items is this: Fill it full of water to remove any flammable vapors, then cut it while full with a sawsall and a metal cutting blade. This creates less sparks (virtually none with a good blade) and if done right will only take a few minutes. The problem with a cutoff wheel in my opinion is all the sparks if any flammable vapors are still present it's a big source of ignition.

I've used this method many times to get rid of old gas tanks, the local metal recyclers won't take them unless you cut them in half.

[I_Love_Plasma]

One of the ways that I have found to be safe while cutting barrels, gas tanks, or other questionable items is this: Fill it full of water to remove any flammable vapors, then cut it while full with a sawsall and a metal cutting blade. This creates less sparks (virtually none with a good blade) and if done right will only take a few minutes. The problem with a cutoff wheel in my opinion is all the sparks if any flammable vapors are still present it's a big source of ignition.

I've used this method many times to get rid of old gas tanks, the local metal recyclers won't take them unless you cut them in half.

Thanks for the replies Mike,Mark. And especially for your great idea, Mikenstein.

Watch out for galvanized metals! Those always are really bad.

[everlastsupport]

One of the ways that I have found to be safe while cutting barrels, gas tanks, or other questionable items is this: Fill it full of water to remove any flammable vapors, then cut it while full with a sawsall and a metal cutting blade. This creates less sparks (virtually none with a good blade) and if done right will only take a few minutes. The problem with a cutoff wheel in my opinion is all the sparks if any flammable vapors are still present it's a big source of ignition.

I've used this method many times to get rid of old gas tanks, the local metal recyclers won't take them unless you cut them in half.

I removed sawsall from the previous post I made since mine are electric and all the water coming out could be another shocking issue.

[smackdaddy]

This is a good time to mention that there is a lot of "free" information out there on what the basic controls do...A video can show you how to turn the knob and some basic demonstration of technique, but no matter how good, someone will find fault for "lacking" the particular piece of information that they wanted to know...same as the manual.

What a lot of guys are expecting, I fear is a years worth of theory, condensed down into a 1,2,3 do this, do that scenario. Welding just isn't that way guys. It takes years of practice, skill, training and retraining to get good and stay good. Welding is a skill...Skills are learned by doing, skills are kept sharp by doing. No video can adequately teach skill. A lot of variables enter into "recommendations" that some mfgr's offer and in fact, are sometimes not even in the ballpark. For expample, I have talked to "welders in training" who were having trouble with running a bead. They come to me because they know I can weld. They ask me what they are doing wrong. I ask them their settings. They give me boiler plate,standard issue settings. I can tell many are welding too cold, and a few too hot for their talent and skills. They are usually rather frustrated when I explain that the "heat" isn't correct. They almost invariably reply: That's what the book says, or that's what the machine says, or that's where the instructor told me to weld. I'll go into a booth with them and "max" out the machine for the electrode and lay a perfect bead, then I'll go and lay a bead at the minimum range for the electrode and lay another perfect bead. But for a new guy who hasn't developed the skill to weld or doesn't understand what's going on in the machine he is welding with, its frustrating to have a "preset" notion of if I can't weld at that recommendation, then something is wrong with my welding, when all he needs to do is experiment with a more comfortable amperage that gets the job done. In the field, sure there are regulations specifying amperage range and preheat and post heat requirements...but not when one is learning. But the greatest handicap in welding can be the unquestioning reliance upon the " book" settings.

The "punch" button machines are no more difficult to understand or run than your typical microwave...the problem is that most people don't read the owners manual to find out what to punch to keep the popcorn from burning...same is true with our welders. The manuals are designed to give a "heads up" discussion and not a welding primer. Typical welding books are in excess of 500 pages, that just begin to scratch the surface. While yes, a video will give some more clarity, it won't answer every question or every situation or problem encountered. It will likely cover basic technique and functions of the machines in a visual/ audio form. So, this is where YOU come in...You must practice, practice, practice, if you aren't familiar with the units or its capabilities...In so doing, experimentation is necessary.

If you don't like to experiment, or read, I doubt a welding video will be much of a help either. Welding is not an exact science....though some would disagree, it is a descendant of the great ART of blacksmithing,a trade that now has many "videos" about how-to.. But because one watches a video about it doesn't qualify one as a blacksmith, nor does one gain intimate knowlege of the art. The only way is to begin to experiment, and find out what works for you.

Most of our welders are quite advanced in features. I expect that we will have a dumbed" down AC/DC machine in the near future, but even then, proficiency will not be infused by a welding video...

I think some people are starting to take advantage of your guys knowlege and kindness, I dont see miller doing what people are asking of you guys. I think if you really want to learn then you need to pay and go to school for it just like most good welders do. A little info here and there is great but if you need a video then you might as well at least take a community college course for welding....at the bare minimum.

[The Goat]

Smackdaddy,

I agree to a point, but some people don't want to be professional welders, but do possess a certain amount of natural talent. I, myself was taught to weld by a master fabricator that recognized my natural ability and nurtured it. He was the one that encouraged me to take a few classes; I think to introduce me to doing this professionally, (certified). Although those classes where well and good to teach some of the basics, anything that can be read in a book, they could never teach as much as time under the hood and time under the hood watching an artist. I think that people who have the true talent can benefit greatly from the videos, and the rest can be trained to be good welders in the community colleges, IMHO.

Goat

[everlastsupport]

Some of you were looking for videos. We are stilling working on them, however, here is one from a very popular website (http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com).

It is a first part look at the Everlast Power TIG (will apply to PowerMaster units as well).

This site should be in your bookmarks of it's not. It is loaded with information on welding and the fellow has a great since of humor as well.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...-settings.html

[roadymi]

[QUOTE=smackdaddy;1070]I think some people are starting to take advantage of your guys knowlege and kindness, I dont see miller doing what people are asking of you guys. QUOTE]

What I am about to say is just one poor mans humble opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Miller and others have a name that is almost universally known throughout the welding universe. For a company like Everlast to attain this level there are a couple of paths to follow.

1. Build an exceptional product, offer exceptional customer service, provide services the big guys won't take the time to do (forums and videos), be available to the public for questions, critiques and suggestions.

or

2. Offer an exceptional product and hope eventually you will catch on in the marketplace.

[everlastsupport]

[QUOTE=roadymi;1724]

I think some people are starting to take advantage of your guys knowlege and kindness, I dont see miller doing what people are asking of you guys. QUOTE]

What I am about to say is just one poor mans humble opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Miller and others have a name that is almost universally known throughout the welding universe. For a company like Everlast to attain this level there are a couple of paths to follow.

1. Build an exceptional product, offer exceptional customer service, provide services the big guys won't take the time to do (forums and videos), be available to the public for questions, critiques and suggestions.

or

2. Offer an exceptional product and hope eventually you will catch on in the marketplace.

I just got off the phone with a fellow (in Indiana) that wanted info on buying a TIG unit, he selected tech support. Looks like he wants the PM205. He was pleased to get help on a Sunday, so I think we do what we need to. Also, had a person this morning call in for a MIG 205.

We are not perfect by any means, but we get the job done.