Project #3 from Trip - Mission style decorative accents

[Trip59]

Spent the day getting geared up for the frame project, about 5 hours of cutting and grinding. Not much to show yet, but wanted to get my thread started so I didn't miss anything as I progressed

Outside frame pieces, 62" long and 13" long, mitered and cleaned up.


Rest of the pieces, the outside is 3/4" square, the inside is 1/2" square.



The small pieces are 2" long 1/2" tube, there will be 4 down each side between the outer and inner rails.

I was able to clamp some pieces to the saw base to make the repetitive cutting easier, but I'm considering something I can bolt on to act as a stop for the long pieces if I do another project like this. Measuring the 8 long mitered pieces and 8 long squared pieces took more time than cutting all the miters (and I goofed and cut twice as many as I needed... oops) The 2" ones were a PITA, all 32 of them. I had to stop after each 1/4 of them to clean up the ends, since the offcuts had a piece that wasn't cut through, I placed the 2"on the inboard side so the ends would be clean. every 8 of them I had to stop and trim the ends off the long stock.

Sunday starts with sanding the ends to clean up the mill scale and then welding begins. I did a test piece to try out the new clamps, the weld was nice, though it stood quite proud considering I need to grind flush. I'm going to switch from 2 to 3 on the Hobart (power adjustment is 1-4) and see if that flattens it out a bit. Excellent penetration on the test, just too tall a bead.

[jerky]

pull a longer arc and it will flatten out, or "wet" out. short arcs will tend to crown.

[Trip59]

Laid the pieces out for approval today



Started welding and realized I was off by 1/4 on some of the lengths of the inner pieces. Easy enough to fix, but kinda put a funk on the afternoon.

I'm having a hell of a time STILL getting it to flatten out, no matter what I did I got a hell of a crown. Penetration seems to be ok, no real undercutting.

I realized that some of the welds are going to be really tough to grind and dress, I'm thinking about waiting till I buy (or win) a TIG next week.

Also decided I'm buying a welding table next week as well. I'd love one of the big Stronghand tables, but will probably get one or two of the portable ones instead, as I can't come up with an additional 2.5k, nor the space to store it.

[zoama]

Set the wire speed around 10 to start and weld a straight line (no side to side motion) voltage on 2 or 3.

[67cudafb]

I would agree you need to bevel joints and maybe move torch a little faster. Also might build a jig to clamp down and make it easier to replicate would save sometime and make everything nice and square just a thought.

[Trip59]

To answer the questions, I'm using a pair of Hobart corner clamps to line them up. There is a slight bevel (halfway through the 16ga metal) hit it with a roloc sanding disk when cleaning up. There's a slight gap left in as well when clamped up. The chart says 2/60 on the side of the welder for 16ga, I'm using solid core .024 and 75/25. I'm putting the project aside for at least a week, I'm going to pick up a pair of the portable Stronghand tables. I came across a problem in lining up the 1/2" pieces flush against the back, the plywood substrate isn't flat enough to clamp down on (and tends to catch fire).

I have another project I'm going to do in the interim to try out the suggestions y'all have made on some cutoffs and scrap and will post another thread with the actual weld pics.

[zoama]

To answer the questions, I'm using a pair of Hobart corner clamps to line them up. There is a slight bevel (halfway through the 16ga metal) hit it with a roloc sanding disk when cleaning up. There's a slight gap left in as well when clamped up. The chart says 2/60 on the side of the welder for 16ga, I'm using solid core .024 and 75/25. I'm putting the project aside for at least a week, I'm going to pick up a pair of the portable Stronghand tables. I came across a problem in lining up the 1/2" pieces flush against the back, the plywood substrate isn't flat enough to clamp down on (and tends to catch fire).

I have another project I'm going to do in the interim to try out the suggestions y'all have made on some cutoffs and scrap and will post another thread with the actual weld pics.

I didn't realize you were using such small wire so the speed I said would be too low. These parts are not structural correct ? If they're just for looks you won't need to worry about ultimate strength of the weld, just a clean quick straight line.

[redbeard]

I'm thinking about waiting till I buy (or win) a TIG next week.

I take it you didn't buy your new TIG yet.

You are right about the look though, it wouldn't be nearly as nice without the different tube sizes.

[DaveO]

The difference in sizes definitely improves the aesthetics.

In earlier posts you were trying to overcome a tall weld bead... were you able to resolve it to your satisfaction?

[Trip59]

I take it you didn't buy your new TIG yet.

You are right about the look though, it wouldn't be nearly as nice without the different tube sizes.

My financial situation prohibited this, I could describe it, but it would probably just be all asterisks after the censors got done... Planning to order first thing in February once the new job's paycheck kicks in, or if Uncle Sam doesn't bend me over too hard.

The difference in sizes definitely improves the aesthetics.

In earlier posts you were trying to overcome a tall weld bead... were you able to resolve it to your satisfaction?

To a degree... I wound up doing 6 tacks per corner. One on the outside corner, adjust, one on one face, adjust, one on the other face, adjust, then a second on each, then after checking, I cranked it up another notch and burned it in then ground it down. Part of the issue was low pressure in the 75/25 bottle, I got a new one, part of it is still too tall for the inside corners. I decided to face weld the smaller inserted area front and back, and weld it to the outer frame on just the back where it's flush. It's not structural, will be painted, so a spray with rust converter, a swipe of bondo, then paint and it'll look welded all the way around and still be strong enough.

I'd really rather use a TIG, but I can't push this off till Feb/March so I'm welding as best it can be done, then grinding and dressing away

[sportbike]

Are you just welding a flat, non beveled butt joint? If so, grind a bevel on each of the pieces. It will be easier to follow the joint, and it will end up with less of a "crown". Also, when you grind the weld, you will be sure that you still have weld left rather than grinding it all away and leaving the joint prone to cracks.