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Thread: Project #3 from Trip - Mission style decorative accents

  1. #1
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    Default Project #3 from Trip - Mission style decorative accents

    Spent the day getting geared up for the frame project, about 5 hours of cutting and grinding. Not much to show yet, but wanted to get my thread started so I didn't miss anything as I progressed

    Outside frame pieces, 62" long and 13" long, mitered and cleaned up.


    Rest of the pieces, the outside is 3/4" square, the inside is 1/2" square.



    The small pieces are 2" long 1/2" tube, there will be 4 down each side between the outer and inner rails.

    I was able to clamp some pieces to the saw base to make the repetitive cutting easier, but I'm considering something I can bolt on to act as a stop for the long pieces if I do another project like this. Measuring the 8 long mitered pieces and 8 long squared pieces took more time than cutting all the miters (and I goofed and cut twice as many as I needed... oops) The 2" ones were a PITA, all 32 of them. I had to stop after each 1/4 of them to clean up the ends, since the offcuts had a piece that wasn't cut through, I placed the 2"on the inboard side so the ends would be clean. every 8 of them I had to stop and trim the ends off the long stock.

    Sunday starts with sanding the ends to clean up the mill scale and then welding begins. I did a test piece to try out the new clamps, the weld was nice, though it stood quite proud considering I need to grind flush. I'm going to switch from 2 to 3 on the Hobart (power adjustment is 1-4) and see if that flattens it out a bit. Excellent penetration on the test, just too tall a bead.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
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    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  2. #2

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    pull a longer arc and it will flatten out, or "wet" out. short arcs will tend to crown.
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  3. #3
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    Laid the pieces out for approval today



    Started welding and realized I was off by 1/4 on some of the lengths of the inner pieces. Easy enough to fix, but kinda put a funk on the afternoon.

    I'm having a hell of a time STILL getting it to flatten out, no matter what I did I got a hell of a crown. Penetration seems to be ok, no real undercutting.

    I realized that some of the welds are going to be really tough to grind and dress, I'm thinking about waiting till I buy (or win) a TIG next week.

    Also decided I'm buying a welding table next week as well. I'd love one of the big Stronghand tables, but will probably get one or two of the portable ones instead, as I can't come up with an additional 2.5k, nor the space to store it.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  4. #4

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    Set the wire speed around 10 to start and weld a straight line (no side to side motion) voltage on 2 or 3.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  5. #5

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    Are you just welding a flat, non beveled butt joint? If so, grind a bevel on each of the pieces. It will be easier to follow the joint, and it will end up with less of a "crown". Also, when you grind the weld, you will be sure that you still have weld left rather than grinding it all away and leaving the joint prone to cracks.
    Everlast 200DX
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  6. #6

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    I would agree you need to bevel joints and maybe move torch a little faster. Also might build a jig to clamp down and make it easier to replicate would save sometime and make everything nice and square just a thought.

  7. #7
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    To answer the questions, I'm using a pair of Hobart corner clamps to line them up. There is a slight bevel (halfway through the 16ga metal) hit it with a roloc sanding disk when cleaning up. There's a slight gap left in as well when clamped up. The chart says 2/60 on the side of the welder for 16ga, I'm using solid core .024 and 75/25. I'm putting the project aside for at least a week, I'm going to pick up a pair of the portable Stronghand tables. I came across a problem in lining up the 1/2" pieces flush against the back, the plywood substrate isn't flat enough to clamp down on (and tends to catch fire).

    I have another project I'm going to do in the interim to try out the suggestions y'all have made on some cutoffs and scrap and will post another thread with the actual weld pics.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    To answer the questions, I'm using a pair of Hobart corner clamps to line them up. There is a slight bevel (halfway through the 16ga metal) hit it with a roloc sanding disk when cleaning up. There's a slight gap left in as well when clamped up. The chart says 2/60 on the side of the welder for 16ga, I'm using solid core .024 and 75/25. I'm putting the project aside for at least a week, I'm going to pick up a pair of the portable Stronghand tables. I came across a problem in lining up the 1/2" pieces flush against the back, the plywood substrate isn't flat enough to clamp down on (and tends to catch fire).

    I have another project I'm going to do in the interim to try out the suggestions y'all have made on some cutoffs and scrap and will post another thread with the actual weld pics.
    I didn't realize you were using such small wire so the speed I said would be too low. These parts are not structural correct ? If they're just for looks you won't need to worry about ultimate strength of the weld, just a clean quick straight line.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  9. #9
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    All decorative, no weight bearing at all. They'll be drilled through in 4 places and screwed to a wall (with small tube standoffs).

    Being as most of the welds are on 16ga 1/2" square tube I figured the .023 would be the better choice. No? I'd have to check, I think I only have .030 in flux core, being decorative, I didn't feel like dealing with the spatter.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    All decorative, no weight bearing at all. They'll be drilled through in 4 places and screwed to a wall (with small tube standoffs).

    Being as most of the welds are on 16ga 1/2" square tube I figured the .023 would be the better choice. No? I'd have to check, I think I only have .030 in flux core, being decorative, I didn't feel like dealing with the spatter.
    Yeah .023 is fine, I just don't come across it often. Most people I've met use .030 or.035 flux core and weld outside with these machines.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  11. #11
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    Wow, took me a while, seems every time I set up to weld, something happens like rain, other emergencies, etc.

    Got the first one completely tacked and partially welded. Here's the photo I sent for approval before finishing:



    Shovel is just holding it up...

    What a PITA, if I'd known 1/2" to 3/4" was going to be such a pain to join, I'd have not recommended it... I think it does add to the overall effect, but those inside corners SUCK.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    I'm thinking about waiting till I buy (or win) a TIG next week.
    I take it you didn't buy your new TIG yet.

    You are right about the look though, it wouldn't be nearly as nice without the different tube sizes.
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  13. #13
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    The difference in sizes definitely improves the aesthetics.

    In earlier posts you were trying to overcome a tall weld bead... were you able to resolve it to your satisfaction?
    DaveO
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeard View Post
    I take it you didn't buy your new TIG yet.

    You are right about the look though, it wouldn't be nearly as nice without the different tube sizes.
    My financial situation prohibited this, I could describe it, but it would probably just be all asterisks after the censors got done... Planning to order first thing in February once the new job's paycheck kicks in, or if Uncle Sam doesn't bend me over too hard.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    The difference in sizes definitely improves the aesthetics.

    In earlier posts you were trying to overcome a tall weld bead... were you able to resolve it to your satisfaction?
    To a degree... I wound up doing 6 tacks per corner. One on the outside corner, adjust, one on one face, adjust, one on the other face, adjust, then a second on each, then after checking, I cranked it up another notch and burned it in then ground it down. Part of the issue was low pressure in the 75/25 bottle, I got a new one, part of it is still too tall for the inside corners. I decided to face weld the smaller inserted area front and back, and weld it to the outer frame on just the back where it's flush. It's not structural, will be painted, so a spray with rust converter, a swipe of bondo, then paint and it'll look welded all the way around and still be strong enough.

    I'd really rather use a TIG, but I can't push this off till Feb/March so I'm welding as best it can be done, then grinding and dressing away
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    My financial situation prohibited this, I could describe it, but it would probably just be all asterisks after the censors got done... Planning to order first thing in February once the new job's paycheck kicks in, or if Uncle Sam doesn't bend me over too hard.
    Sorry to hear that things are sub-optimal in that area of your life. I hope the uncle at least supplies you with a generous amount of KY jelly.
    Penncrest Buzzbox - Infinite amp control! Man the 70's were good.
    Everlast Powerplasma 60 - Reliable unit, cuts well.
    Everlast i-MIG 250P w/spoolgun - Really smooth, plenty of cajones.
    Everlast 250EXT - Sometimes it just takes a kick in the balls...
    Everlast 255EXT - Just started playing

  16. #16
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    IRS doesn't know what KY is...

    I am at a point where I can tell the light at the end of the tunnel ISN'T a train, but that's about it. Couple more months and all should be well. Took about a 45k cut in income 2011 vs 2010 (cut started in late 2010, so it's probably about 50-55k overall) Lots of money to figure out how to cover.

    Welder is first on my list though, I've got jobs lining up ranging from small repairs to rebuilding a full size reefer. Welder should pay for itself in a month or three, too bad it won't pay for itself first
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    too bad it won't pay for itself first
    That's why God invented credit!
    Penncrest Buzzbox - Infinite amp control! Man the 70's were good.
    Everlast Powerplasma 60 - Reliable unit, cuts well.
    Everlast i-MIG 250P w/spoolgun - Really smooth, plenty of cajones.
    Everlast 250EXT - Sometimes it just takes a kick in the balls...
    Everlast 255EXT - Just started playing

  18. #18
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    F**K that, that's half the reason I'm in this sinking boat to begin with... LOL
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  19. #19

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    Trip,

    Try to tack it up first (low volts), let it cool, then repeat, then weld? I know you don't have a TIG and that would help, but that would be one approach for using a MIG.

    Strong hands are nice, but the price, I hear you there. But they are slick if you have all the parts. See Jody's videos.

    What saw did you use for all the cuts?
    Mike R.
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  20. #20

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    Trip don't feel bad you are not alone alot of us are in same boat. I with you on credit cards they will get you in trouble thats for sure. Hopefully things will improve.
    Bill

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