Whats happeng

[hesstx]

I when to try out the LX and when I try to weld I get the Cup getting red hot and lots of electrode wear

set on DC Neg electrode id I have pos to the electrode it melted the tip with in seconds
amps the red knot less than 100 around 80. Tig amps at about 9 o'clock gas at 15 using the hand trigger welding mild steel less than 1/4 plate

if I use 4 T it takes longer for it to happen but still did do it

Also noted at 1st I could not get my gass flow to come off zero had to DC it from the unit then it worked fine after reconnect anyone got any links to pics on dial setting
oh it was a number 20 torch with water cooling and a using the only cup they sent with it a #4

[Grizzly1944]

There are several variables that come into play. It's best to call the guys at tech support and get it sorted out.

Also Jody at www.weldingtipsandtricks.com has a really good set of videos about Everlast equipment. He goes into detail to explain all those knobs and settings.

[blasphemy000]

Kinda sounds like you're either getting no gas coming out the torch nozzle or you have the wrong type of gas. Is there any chance you got an Argon/CO2 gas mix for a MIG setup because that type of gas will not work with a TIG and will cause the tungsten to deteriorate and the cup to melt away.

[hesstx]

Kinda sounds like you're either getting no gas coming out the torch nozzle or you have the wrong type of gas. Is there any chance you got an Argon/CO2 gas mix for a MIG setup because that type of gas will not work with a TIG and will cause the tungsten to deteriorate and the cup to melt away.

will check but thought I was running 100% argon
Thanks

[Steve]

will check but thought I was running 100% argon
Thanks

Contaminated gas would not cause the problem you are having.

It sound more like to me that you have no gas flow or your water cooled torch is blocked or....you are using too many amps for the size of electrode you are using.

Are you using a water cooler? Or a hose? Do you get any gas flow at all? Are you getting good water flow through the torch?

What size electrode are you using? Amps? Too high an amp setting with too small an electrode and you will get overheating like you are experiencing even with good cooling and good shielding gas.

Just my thoughts.

[hesstx]

Contaminated gas would not cause the problem you are having.

It sound more like to me that you have no gas flow or your water cooled torch is blocked or....you are using too many amps for the size of electrode you are using.

Are you using a water cooler? Or a hose? Do you get any gas flow at all? Are you getting good water flow through the torch?

Hi using a longevity cooler (long story) works just like the green one so far. using a EL wp20 with a ?/32 electrode amps on red dial at about 930 so 80? the tig amps at 10 o'clock running on t2 I running the neg to the electrode 12 to 14 on prue Argon if I start with the electrode out about 1/4 or less it get a great start but after about 3 start the electrode is used back into the cup and then the cup will turn yellow to re now I using a small number 4 sup an waiting for other sizes to get here

interesting thing with the cooler ia I had 1st thought the cooler was failing to com on but from it pumps when I hit the tig bottonevey if the coolr is off. you will fell the water going though the unit, If you turn the cooler on it will circulate all the time but pummp harde when tig is hit

What size electrode are you using? Amps? Too high an amp setting with too small an electrode and you will get overheating like you are experiencing even with good cooling and good shielding gas.

Just my thoughts.

Hi using a longevity cooler (long story) works just like the green one so far. using a EL wp20 with a ?/32 electrode amps on red dial at about 930 so 80? the tig amps at 10 o'clock running on t2 I running the neg to the electrode 12 to 14 on prue Argon if I start with the electrode out about 1/4 or less it get a great start but after about 3 start the electrode is used back into the cup and then the cup will turn yellow to re now I using a small number 4 sup an waiting for other sizes to get here

interesting thing with the cooler ia I had 1st thought the cooler was failing to com on but from it pumps when I hit the tig bottonevey if the coolr is off. you will fell the water going though the unit, If you turn the cooler on it will circulate all the time but pump harder when tig is hit

[hesstx]

There are several variables that come into play. It's best to call the guys at tech support and get it sorted out.

Also Jody at www.weldingtipsandtricks.com has a really good set of videos about Everlast equipment. He goes into detail to explain all those knobs and settings.

Thanks for the link

[hesstx]

That was the problem now get tin gas via the torch rater than the gas ending in the tank! starting to get all the air out and seems to be working the arc seems hard to start but thought maybe that could be due to small amount of water still in the line

[parkour]

I'm glad you got it all sorted out.
Don't forget to crank the gas flow down to 7 on the Everlast flowmeter.

[hesstx]

I'm glad you got it all sorted out.
Don't forget to crank the gas flow down to 7 on the Everlast flowmeter.

Did that was using allot thanks for all the help

[hesstx]

is it normal for the red numbers to change value while the unit is setting running with no welding going on. by Red screen is sitting at 10 but once the post flow stops the number move around on their own between 6 and 18 Amps once I fire the tig they become stable at 15

[Grizzly1944]

Glad you got it all fingered out.

It's kind of like life, always some kind of learning curve that has to be climbed.

[hesstx]

Glad you got it all fingered out.

It's kind of like life, always some kind of learning curve that has to be climbed.

Was not without the help of you al here and Ray and Mark

[geezer]

You need to understand cup size and electrode size and amp settings, here is a technical booklet that will put you on the right track, read the bottom of page 3 and the bottom of page 4, this will explain why using one of the smallest cups get red hot and what tungsten size is right for the amps.http://www.ckworldwide.com/technical_specs.pdf

[parkour]

Hi using a longevity cooler (long story) works just like the green one so far. using a EL wp20 with a ?/32 electrode amps on red dial at about 930 so 80? the tig amps at 10 o'clock running on t2 I running the neg to the electrode 12 to 14 on prue Argon if I start with the electrode out about 1/4 or less it get a great start but after about 3 start the electrode is used back into the cup and then the cup will turn yellow to re now I using a small number 4 sup an waiting for other sizes to get here

interesting thing with the cooler ia I had 1st thought the cooler was failing to com on but from it pumps when I hit the tig bottonevey if the coolr is off. you will fell the water going though the unit, If you turn the cooler on it will circulate all the time but pump harder when tig is hit

This is your answer. I am not familiar with the longevity cooler, or Everlast for that matter, but I find it hard to imagine that the cooler somehow senses when you hit the TIG button, particularly if the cooler is. The problems you're having really sound like a lack of shield gas coming out of the torch. Since you seem to be using a different torch than is included, I am guessing that the hoses are not connected correctly. Here is how I think the hoses are connected. You have the argon hose on the torch connected to the watercooler return (no pressure side), and the torch water loop connected to the welder gas outlet and to the watercooler water outlet (pressure side). In your watercooler thread, you said that the Everlast wp20 had three QC connectors and the Longevity cooler has two barb fittings. My guess is that you snipped and plumbed incorrectly.

You would have nothing coming out of the torch for gas or water, and you have the watercooler pump and argon regulator fighting eachother.

This is consistent with what sounds like no shielding gas coming from the torch (melting the cup and tungsten) and why the cooler seems to sense when you hit the TIG switch, even when it is off; because the gas solenoid in the welder start letting the argon flowmeter blow argon into the watercooler.

Furthermore, you say the gas is at 15. Is that 15 on the Everlast included flowmeter? If so, you're at 15 liters per minute which is about 30 cubic feet per hour. On the Everlast flowmeter, you want it to read about 7 l/min which is about 15cfh. Look on the tube, it should say l/min for liters per minute. If so, you're way high.

[everlastsupport]

It does sounds like bad, wrong or no gas. Best to call tech support at the welder so we can do some checks.

Also, the display will bounce high and low if you are in pulse mode of course. Make sure pulse is off.

When welding the display means nothing until the post flow stops.

Also, you are wasting gas as stated at 15. Please drop it to 7-8 for now.

[Longlasting]

Got gas coming then....on metal approaching thickness at 1/8 to 1/4 you should be changing over already from Ceriated or 2%lan. to 1/8 electrode size, you have the collets you need with your kit and they are their for a reason when you get maxed out on your tungsten amperage your tungsten will begin to have sparks fly off and ball up in DC which is what you should be welding steel with.Remember tig is a very precise welding process that use tungsten from .040 to 1/8 and above. Most people manage with 1/16th and 3/32.

[performance]

No need to change over to that electrode size for welding that thickness or to anything more than thoriated. Yes, it is a very slight radiation hazard, but its LESS dangerous than the old swiss army watch or the cell phone you talk on. It emits alpha radiation, and that doesn't penetrate the skin. Just don't breath the dust, which you'd be hard pressed to do that.

3/32 will handle the heat range needed to PROPERLY weld those thicknesses.

A properly welded joint of 1/4" will have two passes made. You'll only need about 70-80 amps to do it. There are many reasons for that, but guys trying to "burn" it in all the way through on something like that create a large heat affected zone, creating brittleness at the edge of the weld. Also carrying a large puddle helps trap impurities such as slag and oxidation in the weld because the puddle begins to cool on the top before the contamination can float out.

The REASON you need MORE amperage is for thicker materials that require more heat input because the metal is large or thermally conductive enough to "suck" up the heat faster than it can be put in.

[parkour]

The docs say that the 250ex will weld up to 1/2" steel.
Suppose one is making a butt weld of 1/2" steel, where the edges of both pieces have been beveled at 45*, there is little or no gap at the bottom, and the pieces setting flat on the table. One would make several passes at.... less than 250 amps? If so, when would one weld at 250 amps?

I ask because I was under the apparently mistaken impression that the point of the high amp output was to be able to weld thick joints in a single pass. Your explanation makes sense why multiple smaller passes are better than one big pass... it's like painting.

Thanks.

[EricCox]

Yes, it is a very slight radiation hazard, but its LESS dangerous than the old swiss army watch or the cell phone you talk on.

In the hopes of one day stamping out this urban myth: other than causing distracted driving/walking, cell phones are not dangerous.