Whats happeng

[performance]

No need to change over to that electrode size for welding that thickness or to anything more than thoriated. Yes, it is a very slight radiation hazard, but its LESS dangerous than the old swiss army watch or the cell phone you talk on. It emits alpha radiation, and that doesn't penetrate the skin. Just don't breath the dust, which you'd be hard pressed to do that.

3/32 will handle the heat range needed to PROPERLY weld those thicknesses.

A properly welded joint of 1/4" will have two passes made. You'll only need about 70-80 amps to do it. There are many reasons for that, but guys trying to "burn" it in all the way through on something like that create a large heat affected zone, creating brittleness at the edge of the weld. Also carrying a large puddle helps trap impurities such as slag and oxidation in the weld because the puddle begins to cool on the top before the contamination can float out.

The REASON you need MORE amperage is for thicker materials that require more heat input because the metal is large or thermally conductive enough to "suck" up the heat faster than it can be put in.

[parkour]

The docs say that the 250ex will weld up to 1/2" steel.
Suppose one is making a butt weld of 1/2" steel, where the edges of both pieces have been beveled at 45*, there is little or no gap at the bottom, and the pieces setting flat on the table. One would make several passes at.... less than 250 amps? If so, when would one weld at 250 amps?

I ask because I was under the apparently mistaken impression that the point of the high amp output was to be able to weld thick joints in a single pass. Your explanation makes sense why multiple smaller passes are better than one big pass... it's like painting.

Thanks.

[hesstx]

Let me ask what size filler rod should we be using and how is it decided

[zoama]

Let me ask what size filler rod should we be using and how is it decided

Try the everlast welding calculator link in my sig.

[hesstx]

Try the everlast welding calculator link in my sig.

well anit that just slick as heck

Thanks

[jakeru]

My answer would be if you are welding two pieces together, the filler rod should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/3 of your welding puddle size, or maybe even smaller like 1/5 of your puddle size if you want the frozen weld bead to be wetted out looking and not raised up very tall.

If you are doing tall build-up (e.g., building up an edge), the filler rod should be closer to 1/2-1x your puddle size, to help freeze the puddle faster.

For a given puddle size width, a larger diameter filler rod will freeze the puddle faster, and build the profile of the weld bead up. If your rod is way too big for the puddle, you will have a hard time even getting it dipped into the puddle - (i.e., you'll try to dip but miss the puddle.)

If your rod is too small, you'll have to feed too fast. The puddle width can then grow out of control. (Plus with smaller rods you need to feed fast, you'll run out of rod very quickly, have to reach for new filler rods more often.)

[EricCox]

Yes, it is a very slight radiation hazard, but its LESS dangerous than the old swiss army watch or the cell phone you talk on.

In the hopes of one day stamping out this urban myth: other than causing distracted driving/walking, cell phones are not dangerous.

[Redhead]

Check your balance it's not the same as a miller turn the balance down to say 30 see how that works I had the same problem till I called tech

[performance]

Umm...this is an old thread...check the date.