Thinking of setting up a cubicle to practice tig in. I have some slow time approaching and would like to set up my machine in the house so I don't have to freeze while I practice. Anybody well versed in exhausting a welding booth?
Thinking of setting up a cubicle to practice tig in. I have some slow time approaching and would like to set up my machine in the house so I don't have to freeze while I practice. Anybody well versed in exhausting a welding booth?
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TIG is about as clean as you can go with a welding process, but it can generate a bit of smoke if things are not clean. I bet if you weld under say a fume hood for your kitchen stove it would be enough for practice welding.
OR you can get a small heater for your garage (if you have one).
Cheers
Mike
Smoke rises.... argon being 2.5 x heavier than air falls.
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Thanks. What about toxicity? I'm not thinking about welding any galvanized, just practicing on some steel, s.s., and aluminum. Maybe I don't need to build a booth, just a screen and ventilator?
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I like the heater in the garage idea, instead, or maybe wearing a quilted jumpsuit to stay warm. Welding inside the house just seems like a bad idea, for reasons that you've already identified: possible toxicity, and setting off smoke alarms. TIG is the cleanest process, sure, but what about that one stray spark that leaves a mark on the counter or burns a hole in your wife's favorite ornamental dish rag? (You *think* I'm kidding.) What if you burn through while dialing in the settings, and a blob of molten metal lands on whatever your surface is and leaves a burn mark? What about the cylinder leaving scuff marks on the floor as you move it around?
I just think a run-thru of all the unintended consequences is in order.
DaveO
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I hear ya.. but shop is 80 yards away (very bad decision from 15 years ago..) with 14' high ceiling open (guess that's 'no ceiling'..). I bundle up and run a torpedo heater when I have to be there, but that ain't gonna happen for practice tigging. Besides, my wife is very understanding. She just said, "pay no attention to the man behind the screen"![]()
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Hobart Ironman 230
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'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
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Bad idea, like everybody pointed out. I use something like this but a little larger and it warms shop up nice but I am in north florida. http://www.tractorsupply.com/master-...00-btu-1016657
Bill
Well, the wife has just given you the green light, so press the "launch" button! Good on her for understanding. I learned early on not to do things that, to a bachelor, make perfect sense. Sneakers wet? Put them in the oven at low heat, and they dry out like a charm! The smell fades eventually!
If you don't mind my asking, what's your location? It must be a fairly winter-intensive place.
DaveO
Oxweld oxy acet gear
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PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!
I'm in northern NJ, by High Point S.P.
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Not a good idea to weld in your house at all, other than for a repair on something that is actually attached to your house, or for something lime jewelery making or something extremely small and hobby like.
In a basement with a concrete floor could be a different story, with some precautions taken.
Not worth the risk.
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Floor is porcelain. I can't wreck it, but if I do, I have a couple hundred feet of it left. Just talking practice welding here.
Last edited by Jake98; 01-14-2012 at 04:01 PM.
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One member on this forum welds in his basement. I know because I remember the feeling of my eyebrows raising when I read the thread. I would surmise that if you were to set up RIGHT on your rangetop, and the hood actually vents OUTSIDE, then get a 6" duct booster from the local big-box hardware for $20.00, along with some flexible duct and run that out the window as a bottom draft, you'd be good to go. Use a piece of 10-gage or so steel for a "table-top to protect the stovetop, some 18 gage to make some sides, Heck, your kitchen would look like a mini-technical college. Get the significant other a librarian outfit and the picture is complete, a proper learning environment!!
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I have a 600 sf adult playroom here, high ceilings, 8' doors, no need to use the stove. Just need to lose a set of drums and I'm good to go. I like the librarian outfit idea tho.
Wonder if I could send the smoke up the woodstove chimney? (see, if you insist on worrying, I'll come up with a good reason..)
Everlast PowerPlasma70
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What's a 16ga. top gonna cost me,30x80 with an edge bent down?
Everlast PowerPlasma70
Hobart Ironman 230
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if memory is correct, my local metal shop sells a 4'x8' (48" x 96") 16gauge sheet for about $80. Bent down edges - no big deal.
maybe I shouldn't quote a price on a questionable memory...now questioning if it was $80 for a half sheet of 4x10'...that would be just 48x60". Probably depends on location too.
Last edited by KSmith; 01-16-2012 at 12:26 AM.
There's a good sized local yard (R. S. Phillips) that has everything, I'll get them to make it up. They should have that non-galv. right? Hot rolled? I'll get them to cut the excess from the sheet for a 'back-splash'. The gauge doesn't much matter, I'll put a piece of plate where I'm working. (oops, 'practicing'..)
Everlast PowerPlasma70
Hobart Ironman 230
Lincoln A-D/C 225
'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
jakemateer.com
I wouldn't want galvanized in case it is scorched or melted from burnthru....fumes from the zinc coating on galvanized are not good. Hot rolled is good. Good luck. I hope I was decent on the estimate of cost...I usually buy 16 gauge in 4x4 sheets for easier handling, and that was last summer. Can't recall the price then either.
Last edited by Jake98; 01-16-2012 at 09:15 PM.
Everlast PowerPlasma70
Hobart Ironman 230
Lincoln A-D/C 225
'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
jakemateer.com
fire extinguisher....
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hopefuly will have a benchtop lathe.
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