Is this really a way to set the amperage on a 200 DX ?

[Tinker]

The other day in another welding forum I stumbled across a post about a way to utilize the digital display on what sounded like an Everlast 200 DX type machine for setting the pedal amperage for TIG. I looked for a similar post on this forum but didn't see anything. I've only had my machine for a week or so and although I'm a pedal person I've been using the torch trigger just because it's a new feature for me. I'm used to having the panel knob and display always control the max amperage so the adjustment knob on the 200 DX pedal I got is something new to me. I've read the posts on this forum and I think I understand how everything is going to work on this welder when I connect the pedal. Here's the setup process he explained:

When you plug in the pedal it overrides the panel knob and the max amperage is set using the pedal knob and pedal position. You can set the max amperage using the display from the pedal by temporarily switching to the Stick welding position. Now when you operate the pedal knob or pedal you'll see the amperage on the display without even striking an arc. He goes on to say that you can also use this technique to set the pulse current if the rate is set to the minimum. Switch back to TIG when you're ready to weld.

No welding for me today but I did go out, plug in my pedal and play with this a bit. The amperage values did seem to follow the pedal knob and pedal position as he claimed. The display also appeared to go up and down in a logical manner in pulse mode. So has anyone else played with this setup technique? Is it really a valid way to set up pedal currents using the display? Since the max Stick current is 160 vs. 200 on TIG and you are switching back and forth if it does work is it really displaying the true max TIG current?

Gary

[Joe from NY]

can anyone advise on this question?

[jakeru]

That's exactly how it works on my Super200P. I think I've heard on this forum somewhere that the newer, 200 amp IGBT-based everlast machines with the current knob in the pedal (specifically, 200DX) work similarly, but I can't personally vouch for this. I don't know about a machine that would have a different max stick welding output than TIG. (I believe my Super200 has equal max current output for both stick welding mode as it does TIG.)

One tip if you do this technique for amp adjustment in TIG mode - be sure to remember to put it back into TIG mode before you go to set up to weld. Otherwise, if when setting up to weld, you touch the tungsten to the work while the machine is still in stick welding mode, you're going to experience a bad moment as it's going to make an arc strike without any shielding gas.

Another way to set or verify the welding current, is if you can actually hold the TIG arc while not looking at it (and instead look over at your machine panel readout...) the panel will read out the actual amperage that is being welded with at that moment. Try and keep a steady arc length, and probably best to do this on a scrap piece of metal.

[performance]

You can simply step on the pedal, start the arc, and watch the maximum.
Amp values with foot pedals are relative to begin with. The 200DX is an entry level unit and does not set the same as the more expensive units.
Alternatively, I think it is possible to set it by flipping it to lift tig as well and set the amp values while stepping on the pedal without starting the arc. Though, right now my memory is a little vague on that.
After a few hours of use, you can pretty much tell by the reading of a - to + number reading ranging from something like -20 to +15 or so ( more or less) indicated on the panel as a reliable mark to correspond to max amps. In other words, the panel does read, but doesn't give an actual reading.

Using the stick to set the tig is far from accurate.

[Tinker]

It was interesting to see my post surface again after lots of views but no responses. I'd posted the question not long after I'd received my 200 DX and I was trying to learn as much as possible about how it operated. From an engineering perspective I'm curious as to why the panel knob and display had to work differently when you were using the torch switch vs. the pedal. My first TIG was a ThermalArc 250 GTS and the panel amperage control governed the maximum current in all operating modes whether you were using a pedal or not. My ThermalArc is DC only I'd wanted to be able to make aluminum projects and repairs at home and I thought the 200 DX looked like a good value.

After using my 200 DX for a number of repairs and projects using DC with the torch switch and AC with the pedal I'm more than completely pleased with the unit. It had been a couple of years since I'd had a chance to TIG weld aluminum at the local CC using Miller Dynasty's and I was happy to see that the technique came right back, the results with my 200 DX were excellent. So while the engineer in me would still to know the why of the 200 DX pedal design the welder in me no longer cares :^) I'm just rough setting the pedal knob and if I'm not getting the results I need from the pedal operation I'll tweak it a bit. In fact I've done quite a bit of welding on a variety of projects without even readjusting the pedal knob.

As a hobbyist I couldn't justify the extra $500 or so for the 250 and I'm 100% satisfied with my 200 DX.

Gary

[performance]

Gary,
You provided your own answer about the 200DX in the last sentence. It is 500.00 extra. (Really 200+ for the 225lx) Each increasing price points offer more features. This isn't a TA GTS at a much higher price. We try to price things with more features for what you pay, while offering more power. This has worked well for us in offering additional features/additional power. We seem to sell out of all of it.

[Joe from NY]

You can simply step on the pedal, start the arc, and watch the maximum.

Simply?!, It's just that it's hard to maintain the proper distance to keep an arc going, and look at the readout, and step on the pedal while turning the pedal knob at the same time. It is like an acrobatic feat. Add in the need to look at three places at the same time. it is just a bit difficult.

[Buzz]

My pedal that came with the 200DX does not have an adjust knob on it.

[Tinker]

My pedal that came with the 200DX does not have an adjust knob on it.

Buzz that's interesting... Just when I was ready to step away from the discussion you tossed in a new twist. So when did you get your 200 DX? How does your pedal work? Does the pedal movement always change the amperage from minimum to 200 amps or does the panel knob and display somehow affect the amperage range?

Gary

[Jake98]

After using my 200 DX for a number of repairs and projects using DC with the torch switch and AC with the pedal I'm more than completely pleased with the unit.

So while the engineer in me would still to know the why of the 200 DX pedal design the welder in me no longer cares :^) I'm just rough setting the pedal knob and if I'm not getting the results I need from the pedal operation I'll tweak it a bit. In fact I've done quite a bit of welding on a variety of projects without even readjusting the pedal knob.

This is what I was waiting to hear, thanks. They should print that right on the box.

[performance]

Buzz give them a call. UNLESS for some wierd reason you can limit amps on the panel.

[Buzz]

Buzz give them a call. UNLESS for some wierd reason you can limit amps on the panel.

Last night I was using the pedal and turned the panel knob way down, I then struck an arc and floored it, Ithere was very little amperage , then I turned it up to max 200 amps and it was all there. I'll tryit again tonight or tomorrow. I'll have to try it looking at the display.

[Buzz]

Well, I set the panel at 25 amp, covered the torch from my eyes and struck an arc, I mashed the pedal and it only went to 25 amp, I repeated this at 50, 75, 100, 125, and 150 amps, each time the amps on the panel only went to the dialed in setting. Isn't this the way its supposed to work? I don't see any reason to have a knob on the pedal.

[Tinker]

Well, I set the panel at 25 amp, covered the torch from my eyes and struck an arc, I mashed the pedal and it only went to 25 amp, I repeated this at 50, 75, 100, 125, and 150 amps, each time the amps on the panel only went to the dialed in setting. Isn't this the way its supposed to work? I don't see any reason to have a knob on the pedal.

Wow, the plot thickens... Yes Buzz this is certainly the way that I and it seems like others think it SHOULD work. I was puzzled by the pedal knob which is why I wrote this original post. Just to better understand what you're seeing when you move the panel knob does the displayed amperage go from the lowest value (since you're not pushing the pedal) momentarily up to your panel knob setting then it drops back to the lowest value until you start welding. Then if you push the pedal all the way down the displayed amperage goes up to the max value you set?

I'll play with mine a bit more tomorrow to see if I can duplicate what you're seeing even though my pedal does have a knob (I'll turn the pedal knob all the way up first). My 200 DX is a fairly recent build and I'd assumed up to date on any revisions which is why I'd asked about your machine. My serial number is 02663533 and it passed final inspection on 10/22/2011. What about yours?

Thanks, Gary

[Buzz]

Yes, If I set it at say 100 amps, when I strike an arc the amps drop down to a lower starting amp as per pedal position, as I press the pedal the amps increase up what ever position the pedal is in but not over 100 amps, I can then taper off the pedal and the amps will go down.

Wow, the plot thickens... Yes Buzz this is certainly the way that I and it seems like others think it SHOULD work. I was puzzled by the pedal knob which is why I wrote this original post. Just to better understand what you're seeing when you move the panel knob does the displayed amperage go from the lowest value (since you're not pushing the pedal) momentarily up to your panel knob setting then it drops back to the lowest value until you start welding. Then if you push the pedal all the way down the displayed amperage goes up to the max value you set?

I'll play with mine a bit more tomorrow to see if I can duplicate what you're seeing even though my pedal does have a knob (I'll turn the pedal knob all the way up first). My 200 DX is a fairly recent build and I'd assumed up to date on any revisions which is why I'd asked about your machine. My serial number is 02663533 and it passed final inspection on 10/22/2011. What about yours?

Thanks, Gary

[Joe from NY]

Does your pedal look like this:




or this:




or this:

[Jake98]

That is strange. Maybe good.. maybe the pedal knob is the only thing preventing the readout before striking. We're gonna have to put that pedal under the microscope Buzz..

[performance]

Buzz,
When did you get your unit? We had a few "special" DX's that were built that we made privately available to some customers that were interested.

[Buzz]

I ordered it Jan 3rd and got it a week ago.

Buzz,
When did you get your unit? We had a few "special" DX's that were built that we made privately available to some customers that were interested.

[Buzz]

It kinda looks like the 2nd one, I'll get a pic of it. Theres also a part # on it.

Does your pedal look like this:




or this:




or this: