PP 205 won't start an arc in HF, but will when scratch?

[Buggy Chief]

Can anyone recommend any solutions? Very frustrating as it was working flawlessly last weekend and double checked that it is in TIG mode.

I did just wire a new outlet in because I bought a 220v welding extension cord, which required new plug. Could something be amiss here?

Manual said that HF gaps may need to be adjusted. Not real sure how to do or what this really means?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

[posixPilot]

Buggy,

I believe your machine has a set of points called the spark gap, or HF gap. Someone can probably tell you specifically where to find them for your machine, but they will be a pair of metal contacts sticking up off the PC board. They should be parallel to one another, and adjusted to a specific gap like a spark plug. You can use a feeler gauge to adjust the spacing, or some other threads suggest a credit card or stacking some sheets of paper together. If you try to adjust them, be sure to let your welder sit unplugged for many hours before you open it, since the large caps can remain charged for a long time.

Cheers
Mike

[Buggy Chief]

Thanks for the suggestion posixPilot-

I took the cover off and don't know what the points look like or where they are at?

Any advice?

[zoama]

Thanks for the suggestion posixPilot-

I took the cover off and don't know what the points look like or where they are at?

Any advice?

If you were looking at the air intake area under the control panel on the front of your machine, the points are behind the upper louver to the left on a forward facing pcb. It's just two little metal tabs that bend easily. Adjust them to around .035 and you'll be all set.

Edit: I found a picture of points in another thread... http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...5&d=1317303357

[posixPilot]

Good work, zoama ... I was just searching for that picture. Buggy, when you set the gap, make sure that the points are parallel to each other. I read a post a while back about a twisted point that was causing the spark to jump into an adjacent capacitor.

Cheers
Mike

[Buggy Chief]

Awesomeness fellas. I will give that a shot and see if it works. More to come. Thanks guys.

[Buggy Chief]

Good work, zoama ... I was just searching for that picture. Buggy, when you set the gap, make sure that the points are parallel to each other. I read a post a while back about a twisted point that was causing the spark to jump into an adjacent capacitor.

Cheers
Mike

Don't have a gauge. Suppose a credit card will work?

[posixPilot]

Geezer says that it will get you pretty close:

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ad.php?p=12850

Maybe a loose fit with a credit card will be just about right.

Cheers
Mike

[Buggy Chief]

Geezer says that it will get you pretty close:

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ad.php?p=12850

Maybe a loose fit with a credit card will be just about right.

Cheers
Mike

Thanks Guys. Adjusted points with credit card thickness .030 and still no arc. In addition, I have the amps set at 80 and when I press the pedal, the machine drops immediately to 21 amps and stays there and when I let off of the pedal it stays at 21 amps for about 4-6 seconds and you can hear it cycle and then the amps read 80. Now I am frustrated. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[zoama]

Thanks Guys. Adjusted points with credit card thickness .030 and still no arc. In addition, I have the amps set at 80 and when I press the pedal, the machine drops immediately to 21 amps and stays there and when I let off of the pedal it stays at 21 amps for about 4-6 seconds and you can hear it cycle and then the amps read 80. Now I am frustrated. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Are you getting an arc between the points ? Your gap may need to be a little over .030 .... As for the amp drop, is the switch set to 2t or 4t ?

[Buggy Chief]

Are you getting an arc between the points ? Your gap may need to be a little over .030 .... As for the amp drop, is the switch set to 2t or 4t ?

2t. I just experimented and the amp drop I think has to do with Start and End Amps. For Example if I have the machine set for 80 amps, then I moved Start and End Amps to roughly 80. I still hear the machine cycle at the end, but it stays around the 80 amps I have dialed up instead of dropping to 20 amps (which is where I had the start amps dialed in at the beginning). I will check the points to see if i get an arc between the points.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

[zoama]

2t. I just experimented and the amp drop I think has to do with Start and End Amps. For Example if I have the machine set for 80 amps, then I moved Start and End Amps to roughly 80. I still hear the machine cycle at the end, but it stays around the 80 amps I have dialed up instead of dropping to 20 amps (which is where I had the start amps dialed in at the beginning). I will check the points to see if i get an arc between the points.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Those settings aren't used with the pedal. They're only for the torch switch.

Skip to 4:00...

[Joe from NY]

Can anyone recommend any solutions? Very frustrating as it was working flawlessly last weekend and double checked that it is in TIG mode.

I did just wire a new outlet in because I bought a 220v welding extension cord, which required new plug. Could something be amiss here?

Manual said that HF gaps may need to be adjusted. Not real sure how to do or what this really means?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I would first put a voltmeter across the outlet receptacle and chck to make sure you have 220 volts.

[posixPilot]

Buggy, another thing you could try is to hook up your plasma torch. The plasma should use the same HF circuitry, so if you get a pilot arc, then you know the HF circuit (and the setting of the points) is good.

Cheers
Mike