256 questions

[tnc110]

Got the 256. TIG works great...very happy with it. This is my first modern TIG...replaced an old Miller DIALARC HF. I did notice that I felt a small shock in my arm where it touched the work piece on occasional start ups...Is this normal???

Also it appears that I received a 40/50 amp plasma torch instead of the 60 amp...whats the deal with that....noticed that the cup is melting a bit... And possible arc start problem? It wont arc unless the torch is 1/4" or less from the material.

[zoama]

Got the 256. TIG works great...very happy with it. This is my first modern TIG...replaced an old Miller DIALARC HF. I did notice that I felt a small shock in my arm where it touched the work piece on occasional start ups...Is this normal???

Also it appears that I received a 40/50 amp plasma torch instead of the 60 amp...whats the deal with that....noticed that the cup is melting a bit... And possible arc start problem? It wont arc unless the torch is 1/4" or less from the material.

Does your plasma torch say WSD 60 on the side ?

[everlastsupport]

Got the 256. TIG works great...very happy with it. This is my first modern TIG...replaced an old Miller DIALARC HF. I did notice that I felt a small shock in my arm where it touched the work piece on occasional start ups...Is this normal???

Where you sweaty? If you touch the workpiece and there is a path to ground through you, you will get a tingle. Happened to me yesterday restoring a 1978 Corvette seat frame.

Also it appears that I received a 40/50 amp plasma torch instead of the 60 amp...whats the deal with that....noticed that the cup is melting a bit... And possible arc start problem? It wont arc unless the torch is 1/4" or less from the material.

What is the model number of the torch? It will either be a sticker or on the neck of the torch.

[tnc110]

Where you sweaty? If you touch the workpiece and there is a path to ground through you, you will get a tingle. Happened to me yesterday restoring a 1978 Corvette seat frame.



What is the model number of the torch? It will either be a sticker or on the neck of the torch.

I wasnt sweaty...was wearing a sweatshirt and got the tingle through my sleaves where my arm was touching the work piece.

Not sure on the torch model, will check later today. Would the wrong torch prevent it from arcing unless it is near the work piece?

[everlastsupport]

You need to be about 1/4" away and the pilot should cause the arc transfer. Do you get the pilot arc? What makes you think it is not a 60 amp torch.

I get zap sometimes, somehow you gave it a path to follow. Like I said, did it myself yesterday. Forearm on seat frame.

[tnc110]

I should be able to pull the trigger in the air and get a pilot arc correct?...I cant do that...just air... I was thinking it was a 40/50 because when I looked at the the consumable page my torch looks like the 40/50 rather than the 60

[tnc110]

Ok...just looked at the plasma torch page...my torch looks more like the 50a torch. I see the 50a are contact start torches...and the 60a are pilot arc. Looks like I got the wrong torch...grrrrrrr...

[ChadP]

I should be able to pull the trigger in the air and get a pilot arc correct?...I cant do that...just air... I was thinking it was a 40/50 because when I looked at the the consumable page my torch looks like the 40/50 rather than the 60

You should get a flame in the air.

[zoama]

I should be able to pull the trigger in the air and get a pilot arc correct?...I cant do that...just air... I was thinking it was a 40/50 because when I looked at the the consumable page my torch looks like the 40/50 rather than the 60

There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.

[tnc110]

[QUOTE=zoama585;21948]There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.[/QUOTE

Why would they put plastic on the cup?

[zoama]

There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.

Why would they put plastic on the cup?

I don't know about that torch. I have the standard wsd60 torch for the 256 and a p80 torch for the PowerPlasma 60.

One of the Everlast staff will have to help you with that.

[Jake98]

[QUOTE=tnc110;21953]

There are numbers on the side of the torch... tell us what they are, and/or post a picture please.[/QUOTE

Why would they put plastic on the cup?

That thing looks like it's missing it's nozzle or it got melted and pushed back in.. not lookin good. Does it say A81 on the side? ..you got an upgraded torch and managed to cook it, it appears to me.

[posixPilot]

Agreed that the torch looks damaged .... I have the A81 too, and have not had this problem. You shouldn't have to drag the tip to start the arc. If the arc doesn't start when you fire it in the air, the either the HF isn't working, you don't have the pilot arc ground connected at the panel, or possibly you have the preflow turned up high. I've read that dragging this torch can damage it, so that may be what happened?

Edit: Here's how my A81 looks:



Cheers
Mike

[Titan winch]

Looking at the damage to the torch i would have to say a good possibility is the Air pressure is not adequate . The A81 needs to have 72 psi . I am not saying this is the cause just that it is a sympton to what you are showing in the picture.
I am sure when you call tech suport they will discuss this with you.
Cheers

[performance]

That can also be a result of a couple of other things...This is an 80 amp torch, and is a HF start.
1) missing or damaged swirl ring.
2) Drag cutting at high amps
3) Moisture in the line. Do you have an additional air dryer in the line besides the water trap supplied with the unit?

[tnc110]

http://s999.photobucket.com/albums/a...=VIDEO0054.mp4

Air pressure is correct. I went to the shop tonight and decided to fool with it some more...out of the blue it started to work intermittenty. As you can see in the video, sometimes it fires, and sometimes it doesnt. The more i use it the better it gets. What is the points gap suppose to be set at...I can see through the front of the machine and the gap looks very big...1/16" maybe...i know my old miller was set at .008...

The cup is getting fried because of the random arc characteristics. I hope everlast will send me a new one when I get the random arc problem fixed.

[performance]

The arc is firing. It is doing something I haven't seen before. But this is not supposed to be operated like this, if it has been. The pilot arc is NOT meant to press and hold indefinitely. It is only for a fraction of a second to start the arc.

The gap is .035" on that unit. The face on the nozzle looks like you have been doing piercing, in turn melting the cup. IF the arc isn't eased into the metal at an angle, the blowback that is created will splash back on the face and melt the high temp composite. The damage you have appears to be a classic sign of this. The pilot arc will jump erratically if the nozzle is cracked or worn. Honestly, at this point it's hard to tell if it's the chicken or the egg that came first.

And you do have it on DC- right, and not switched to AC? What about the dryer?

[Jake98]

When that torch flashes it looks like it's arcing onto itself. I'd hold up on that, before it's totaled. Might just get away with some new parts.

[tnc110]

I just got this unit...it only has a few cuts on it, just trying it out...no piercing. I wish I could make a video of it cutting and you could see how erratic the arc is...then you would understand why the cup is fried. I understand that the pilot arc is just to start the cut, but if it doesnt fire when the trigger is pulled, then its not working. I am going to put my money on the gap. I do have a dryer, its not hooked up now, but it shouldnt matter...a dryer is just going to give longer tip life. I never used a dryer on my old miller plasma cutter and never had a problem. I have noticed on two different occasions that the amperage readout it giong crazy...spitting out random values with them machine sitting idle.

Does Everlast sell parts for the 81?

On a totally different note...I am really confused as to what Everlast is doing...I read a lot of stories where customers are having problems with their units, usually problems that are easy fixes. I see that each unit is tested at the factory...what is tested? Clearly the QC department is lacking. I know time is money, but why doesnt Everlast test each unit out here in the states before they are shipped out...this would save everyone a lot of grief, save Everlast money in the long run AND save a lot of negative publicity that Everlast is receiving.

I sold my old tried and true Miller Dialarc HF tig machine and my miller 375 plasma cutter to purchase this new Everlast unit because of all the modern technology on the tig side and the extra cutting ability on the plasma side...A lot of people told me I was crazy for doing this...I hope i didnt make a big mistake.

The arc is firing. It is doing something I haven't seen before. But this is not supposed to be operated like this, if it has been. The pilot arc is NOT meant to press and hold indefinitely. It is only for a fraction of a second to start the arc.

The gap is .035" on that unit. The face on the nozzle looks like you have been doing piercing, in turn melting the cup. IF the arc isn't eased into the metal at an angle, the blowback that is created will splash back on the face and melt the high temp composite. The damage you have appears to be a classic sign of this. The pilot arc will jump erratically if the nozzle is cracked or worn. Honestly, at this point it's hard to tell if it's the chicken or the egg that came first.

And you do have it on DC- right, and not switched to AC? What about the dryer?

[Titan winch]

Turn the pulse switch off . If you have it on it will jump between the two values as you have described . As for the Testing at the Factory the steps are as follows.
The fact that the torch will cut and you say it seems to get better the longer you use it would indicate that the welder itself is performing as it should and the problem is in the torch head .
Have you tried the TIG function and if so can you let us know the results. and have you contacted Tech support as Ray is very good with walking people through the steps for troubleshooting .
The Testing procedure is as follows

1 Load bank testing total 30 min Starting at low load ( 25% then up)
2 all function tests done pulse / frequency balance / stick / tig AC/DC plasma
3 Cover placed on unit
4 retest all functions as per step two
5 operate plasma torch and foot pedal if applicable
The units are then packaged and moved to a warehouse building to be loaded on a container . They are then transported to Shanghai
loaded onboard and end up in San Francisco
In my case they end up in either Vancouver or Prince Rupert are then put on Rail to Toronto then trucked to me.
The units are then unpacked and a test of the Tig in AC and DC / foot pedal and individual plasma torch is tested. The Tig torch is not tested .