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Thread: Low Amps and HF

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Low Amps and HF

    Just for kicks I was "Trying" to weld .020 thick stainless using 18-20 amps.
    While welding I noticed the HF struggled to start the arc. Is this a normal thing
    at 20 amps? I used 1/16 thoriated tungsten.

    I gave up, I was more or less burning holes thru the material.
    Brian Scott
    225LX
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    19" Shop Fox band saw
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  2. Default

    Was the pre flow on?

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Buggy Chief View Post
    Was the pre flow on?
    Yep! Pre-flow was set at 1 second
    Brian Scott
    225LX
    Speedglass 9002v helmet
    19" Shop Fox band saw
    Ingersoll Rand air compressor

  4. Default

    That will delay the arc start. Gas starts flowing to shield the tungsten b4 there arc starts. If you want an immediate arc, then turn pre flow on 0.

  5. #5

    Default

    Not sure if he was talking about the pre flow - it sounded like the arc just did not like to start.

    Brian?

    Cheers,

    Mike

  6. #6

    Default

    On very low amps you have to keep a tight arc and sharpen the tungsten to a sharp point. I have gotten my powertig 250ex to keep an arc going at 6 amps.
    Everlast PowerTig 250EX
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  7. #7

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    Did you have any luck with the arc? Like I said at low amps you have to sharpen it to the point it could draw blood from you. Also you could try polishing the tungsten with fine fine wheel. Don't use sandpaper though.
    Everlast PowerTig 250EX
    Everlast PowerCool 300
    Everlast PowerPlasma 70
    Lincoln Powermig 215
    Magnum SG Spool Gun
    Don't jump on my Gomba

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cippee View Post
    Did you have any luck with the arc? Like I said at low amps you have to sharpen it to the point it could draw blood from you. Also you could try polishing the tungsten with fine fine wheel. Don't use sandpaper though.
    That helped! I got it to work. It's just a fine line how close the tungsten
    is to the work piece.
    I think I need more practice.
    Brian Scott
    225LX
    Speedglass 9002v helmet
    19" Shop Fox band saw
    Ingersoll Rand air compressor

  9. #9

    Default

    That's good. Yeah at lower amps there is less current to overcome a larger gap so it is more sensitive to a larger arc gap then at 100 amps.
    Everlast PowerTig 250EX
    Everlast PowerCool 300
    Everlast PowerPlasma 70
    Lincoln Powermig 215
    Magnum SG Spool Gun
    Don't jump on my Gomba

  10. #10

    Default

    I don't know if you would see a difference, but I have always had better luck with the ceriated electrodes. I could even get my lift-start tig to fire off at 5 amps, although having it needle sharp makes a much bigger difference.
    Everlast lx225
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    In need of nice TIG machine. drooling over PowerTig 250ex

  11. #11

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    Did you get it needle sharp by hand or use a powered sharpener?

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike J View Post
    Did you get it needle sharp by hand or use a powered sharpener?
    No. I used a power sharpener.
    Your saying I should hand grind and then
    polish to remove the small grind defects?
    Brian Scott
    225LX
    Speedglass 9002v helmet
    19" Shop Fox band saw
    Ingersoll Rand air compressor

  13. #13

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    Oh no, I am just curious - new to TIG, and am interested in low-amp work, I may need it for some of the project i am thinking about.

    So far, with the welding I have done, and the courses taken, its all been hand ground, using on a diamond stone. I can understand if you want accuracy, it's much better to use a power sharpener. I may get one of those....

    Cheers,

    Mike

  14. #14

    Default

    I like lathinated 2% they are hard to find but work better than anything else. Most places only have 1 1/2% lathinated whitch done work nearly as well.
    Everlast PowerTig 250EX
    Everlast PowerCool 300
    Everlast PowerPlasma 70
    Lincoln Powermig 215
    Magnum SG Spool Gun
    Don't jump on my Gomba

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike J View Post
    I can understand if you want accuracy, it's much better to use a power sharpener. I may get one of those....

    Cheers,

    Mike
    I was dangerously close to dropping three hunderd on one of those, then I tried my 4" diamond wheel grinder (I use on tile) clamped in the vise, electrode in a drill, that cured me. Wheel is about $25.. Those grinders look nice, but they're definitely a rip off.. there has to be 20 times the diamond on a 4" wheel, much straighter longitudinal cut too, from bigger diameter.
    Last edited by Jake98; 02-12-2012 at 06:00 PM.
    Everlast PowerPlasma70
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