PowerTig 185 Micro Initial Fire Up!!

[hooda]

Good Morning, Last night I was finally able to get up enough energy to go into my shop, if only to fire up the 185 Micro that's been sitting there, calling for me to get well and come out and use it. I would regard the experience as a 100% success. Below are pics of my first beads. Now, apparently the numbers that I tried to mark on the beads didn't take, but they're supposed to be, starting 6th from right as 1-6, and 7th from right is 7. (I got this all on video too, and I'm in the process of learning how to edit and post it on youtube, look for that coming up). First thing I did was pegged the pedal, thinking all I had was 150 amps max. I was under the mistaken impression that if I went into 2t mode, set the max amps at 150, than went back into 4t(pedal) mode that the max at the pedal would be 250. This assumption was incorrect. If you're in pedal mode, you got all tha machine (and pedal internal control rheostat) have to offer. So, I melted through, and at the same time melted the new stick of 3/32" 2% Lanth. into a GIANT ball. New tungsten, then the next 3 beads were all with the the freq and balanced knobs near 12 o'clock I turned the Argon up from 5 to 7 lpm, and just played to get a feel for the pedal and coax the tungsten from needle-sharp to the ball size I prefer, which is usually 1/2 way up the taper, and about 1/2 the diameter of the tungsten. A little melt through on the fourth bead, as I gave 'er too much gas (pedal) then backed off. The 5th and 6th were with the AC freq on max., Pedal was at the 1/2 way point or so.



Below, same beads, different pic, you can focus on the cleaning action here.





The bead to the left is AC balance 1 mark to the left of 12 o'clock, AC freq. maxed out, and a new piece of 3/32 Thoriated tungsten. This bead has NO evidence of burn through, and is evidence of the potential that this welder has. I'm impressed to say the least. I can guarantee that there's no other place in the US that you can spend $900.00, and get this kind of performance right out of the box. There will be extensive testing of this machine, along with side-by side testing and comparisons to the 250EX coming in the near future.



Below is a quick edge weld that I tried after I set the piece upright, just for giggles.



The bottom line is that I couldn't be more happy with the purchase or initial fire up of the machine. One thing I did learn that I'm not necessarily thrilled about is that you cannot set max amps at the panel for the pedal. I was under the impression that if I set the switch to 2t, set my amps to 150 max, then back to pedal mode, that 150 would be with the pedal floored. Not so. If you have the pedal floored, you get all 185 amps, and I'd guess that you'd have to set some kind of pedal stop to limit the amperage control. I'll be seeking some advice on this matter immediately. Otherwise, all systems GO!!

[charger891]

Looking good!! I gotta do some practicing like that! just have to build a welding table first!

[sportbike]

Looks good.

Are you saying there is no max adjustment when you are using the pedal, always set at "max" when the pedal is fully depressed?

[performance]

Hooda,

You only need about 30%, or a 9-10 oclock position for cleaning. You'll get more penetration that way. Wear ear plugs with the freq maxed out though. lol

We have talked about the 185 and the I tig 200, as well as the PowerUltra units having start to full amps control only on the pedal before and no max amp control. For 185 amps and the price of the machine, it is one of the small sacrifices you make. Adding, and doing more costs more. In reality 185 amps is not too large of a range to control. Low amp work can be done reliably with the foot pedal fairly well, the rest of it can be done with the torch switch. It isn't going to change without a significant price bump, which we do not want.

I guess this information it keeps getting missed, or misinterpreted.

When the unit is in "Pedal" it isn't in 4T. This is another issue I have faced before on several units and is a misunderstanding that has gotten started on other boards about how to operate the unit. If the unit says pedal, then it should be in pedal mode of course to operate the foot pedal. But if it says 2T/4T on the face, of the unit as most of them do, then the foot pedal should only be used while the machine is in 2T mode.

[sportbike]

Hooda, According to the manual. the 185 works in a similar manner to the 200DX that I have, with a separate rheostat on the pedal to control the max current. It is on page 25, section 4.1:

4.1 Foot Pedal Operation.
To operate the foot pedal (optional), simply plug it into the connector port on the front panel and select “Pedal” on the panel face switch. The pedal has a separate rheostat, which controls the maximum amps available
to the foot pedal. While using the foot pedal, the amp control on the welder panel face is by-passed and plays no part in setting maxi-mum amperage. A setting on the foot pedal of 5 is equivalent to 50%. A setting of 10, is 100% etc. This is a percentage of the maxi-mum 185 amp output of the welder. To set a maximum setting of approximately 90 amps, select 50%. If the full range of amps is de-sired, select 100%. Of course intermediate settings above or below these levels can be used. Keep in mind, when selecting low maxi-mum amps, some distortion of the sensation of control may be noticed. It will require more motion to make incremental changes than when the pedal is set to a higher per-cent. Also setting the foot pedal to an ex-tremely low maximum percent may delay starting until the foot pedal is pressed almost further down, because of the change in foot pedal resolution.

[performance]

The test units were equipped for a pedal with a rheostat. But that has been eliminated.

[sportbike]

Lost my last post for some reason...

Hooda,
If you want, you should be able to add a second rheostat in series with the pedal rheostat to be able to turn it down. Alternately, a multi-position rotary switch with one channel direct connected and the others with increasing resistors connected to become series connected with the pedal rheostat.

I never looked at it, but I assumed that is how my 200DX worked. If it is, not sure why the pedal with the 185 wouldn't have one on it.

[performance]

Sportbike. Primarily I think it has to do with the different rheostat value it uses. It is not the same.

[SeanMurphy265]

I've looked at the 185 micro and seriously thought about getting one. My understanding is that it's a basic function tig machine; similar to the diversion series. It was designed to be ran in 2t and 4t modes, but you could add a foot pedal if you wanted one. That's my interpretation I got when I read all the early stuff.

[performance]

There isn't 4T on the welder. Only 2T.

[hooda]

I've looked at the 185 micro and seriously thought about getting one. My understanding is that it's a basic function tig machine; similar to the diversion series. It was designed to be ran in 2t and 4t modes, but you could add a foot pedal if you wanted one. That's my interpretation I got when I read all the early stuff.

Sean, The unit runs in 2T OR pedal modes only. No 4T, and no max amp adjustment while in pedal mode. I will address this issue in the near future, because I can.t see how Everlast could offer a pedal with a rheostat on earlier units, then just arbitrarily stop supplying such a pedal. 185 amps is a little wide of a wide open, in my opinion, but I haven't yet tried to run down way low in pedal mode to give an honest critique of the machine. But I have the nasty beginners habit of this: Whenever I run into oxidation at the puddle, or other welding cooperation issues, I'll floor the pedal to try and "power through", meaning that without a means to limit what I can put into the arc, I burn through instead of dealing with the issue. More of an experience thing. The machine itself runs beautifully, and is miles ahead of either a Diversion 180, or a Precision Tig 175 any day if the week. Even though it's still new to me, I would not hesitate to buy it again, if I had to make the choice over. Just the adjustable AC freq and AC balance put it in a class above the competition.

[performance]

The production run units never had a rheostat pedal. It was the proto unit that did. But it was a true proto unit, and it was a "hybridized" unit that we tested. The manual was written before the actual units were received. That was the best information we had to go on.

[sportbike]

Hooda, should be no problem to add in a second rheostat in series or a switch selector as I mentioned previously.

I believe the 185 pedal is a 22k pot.

[vettebob]

Hooda, should be no problem to add in a second rheostat in series or a switch selector as I mentioned previously.

I believe the 185 pedal is a 22k pot.

The problem with adding a resistor in series is you loose full pedal resolution. I'm looking at doing a mod which retains full pedal resolution. By flipping a switch I will have minimum to 85 amps or minimum to 185 amps . It will require adding a second pot and a switch. I am going to talk to Mark about the start amp side of the circuit before I do it. Depending on what he says I may be able to make it with 3 or 4 range setttings instead of just two and retain full pedal resolution. When I do the mod I'll post how to do it in a separate thread. Bob
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[Jason]

Will Everlast offer a pedal that has the rheostat built in to adjust amperage? Could be an optional upgrade that costs a little more to cover the expense.

[Powertig]

The problem with adding a resistor in series is you loose full pedal resolution. I'm looking at doing a mod which retains full pedal resolution. By flipping a switch I will have minimum to 85 amps or minimum to 185 amps . It will require adding a second pot and a switch. I am going to talk to Mark about the start amp side of the circuit before I do it. Depending on what he says I may be able to make it with 3 or 4 range setttings instead of just two and retain full pedal resolution. When I do the mod I'll post how to do it in a separate thread. Bob
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Hey Bob I got your phone message, thanks for the call I am still in India enjoying the warm weather, beach and Yoga. the internet at the Hotel on the other hand is not as wonderful. I will get in touch with you when I get back and I would love to see what your plans are for the pedal modification..

[sportbike]

The problem with adding a resistor in series is you loose full pedal resolution. I'm looking at doing a mod which retains full pedal resolution. By flipping a switch I will have minimum to 85 amps or minimum to 185 amps . It will require adding a second pot and a switch. I am going to talk to Mark about the start amp side of the circuit before I do it. Depending on what he says I may be able to make it with 3 or 4 range setttings instead of just two and retain full pedal resolution. When I do the mod I'll post how to do it in a separate thread. Bob
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If the operation is at least somewhat linear, I don't see how adding in a resistor would be a problem. it may not be a series resistor, rather a parallel setup, but some combination should work.

How do the pedals work? Is full pedal 0 ohm or 22k ohm?

If zero is zero and full is 22k, then adding a 22k resistor in parallel with the rheostat should give 11K at full pedal, and an increase of finer resolution at small pedal movements. 25% pedal would be 20% power, 50% pedal would be 33% power, 75% pedal would be 43% power, and 50% pedal would be 50% power.

If the pedal does not work as a somewhat linear 0-22k = 0-100%, then this wouldn't work :-)

[vettebob]

0 amps is 22 k per Mark and full is o ohms on the other side of the pot 0 ohms is where the start current is at minimum. If you install a dual potentiometer of say 10 k that can rotate at the same time as the 22k pot and have it wired so it can be put in series with the 22k pot only with the 0 at min and 10 k as max then you will have a resistance value of 22k down to 10k or about 100 amps over the full tavel of the pedal. If you put the same 10 k in series and it does not move along with the pedal the inital resistance would be 32k and you would not see any amperage control until the resistance is under 22k the factory minimum. If you put another pot in parallel with the 22k then the start amps would be higher because the total resistance would be lower. Bob I guess I should say I am a retired Electrical controls specialist.

[sportbike]

0 amps is 22 k per Mark and full is o ohms on the other side of the pot 0 ohms is where the start current is at minimum. If you install a dual potentiometer of say 10 k that can rotate at the same time as the 22k pot and have it wired so it can be put in series with the 22k pot only with the 0 at min and 10 k as max then you will have a resistance value of 22k down to 10k or about 100 amps over the full tavel of the pedal. If you put the same 10 k in series and it does not move along with the pedal the inital resistance would be 32k and you would not see any amperage control until the resistance is under 22k the factory minimum. If you put another pot in parallel with the 22k then the start amps would be higher because the total resistance would be lower. Bob I guess I should say I am a retired Electrical controls specialist.

That makes it a little more difficult... (the 22k to zero rather than 0-22K)

[performance]

The way the 200 DX pedals are connected, The 47k is the "knob" control, and the 2.2k (? can't remember but that sounds right) is the one connected to the pedal.