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Thread: new PP 256 - Ugly results with plasma cutting - probably doing something wrong

  1. #1

    Default new PP 256 - Ugly results with plasma cutting - probably doing something wrong

    Fair warning - I'm new to plasma cutting, so I may be doing something wrong here. I will blame the lack of documentation that came with the PP256

    I was cutting some 3/8" mild steel and it was more like a messy melting experience than an actual cut. What should have been blasting through the steel, it seemed like the arc was just melting as there were large drips of molten seem coming out the bottom and staying on top of the work surface (that's what concerned me more). The kick-back of molton steel ate through the stand-off that is attached to the torch - as you can see from the picture. I was using 60psi and pretty much maxed with the amps. I had similar results with 1/16" steel - not as messy but the edge of the steem was still didn't have a nice slice cut, rather a melted bubbly look. So, my questions are:

    1) Is there a diagram somewhere that shows what settings (PSI/AMPS) to use in conjunction with the type of material (thickness and type of metal)? I was using max settings as I figured this would easily blast through 3/8"

    2) Are you supposed to use that stand-off with metal this thick?

    3) This is a new torch that I guess Everlast just switched to that is supposed to be better than the old - Trafimet a81. I damaged the black ceramic piece (see picture) with part number PC0115 - where do I get a replacement(s)? I found some replacements online for the stand-off.

    Thanks

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  2. #2

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    http://stores.ebay.com/plasma-cutter-consumables Try is guy. From the little I know you air pressure sould be a little higher and you should be running an air dryer because it wiil destroy your consumbles. You should find owners manuel under resources on this sight.
    Bill

  3. #3

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ID:	4851Mine cuts like that when I forget to hook the ground up..
    Last edited by Jake98; 02-04-2012 at 06:34 PM.
    Everlast PowerPlasma70
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Lincoln A-D/C 225
    'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
    jakemateer.com

  4. #4

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    I have only tried mine as a plasma a couple of times with similar results. I did have access to another plasma so it was easier to use the other one anyways so I did not have to switch everything each time I wanted to cut and weld. Now that I don't have access to the other plasma I will need to look at mine again. If you find the problem with yours, please post back. Also might want to check the points. If I recall correctly, i was told that plasma is more sensitive than tig to those being adjusted correctly. Maybe Mark will chime in whether that is accurate.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  5. #5

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    Looks like a hand eye coordination problem, cutting thick material as your first experience can give those results, best to practice on scrap angle iron or thinner plate until you get a feel for the cutting action, use a guide strip to help steady the torch and always drain your compessor and the lines, it doesn't take much water or oil to screw up the plasma cutting. The wire stand off is there for a reason, you can take it off and drag cut but only on thin material.
    When you cut thick material you need to be slow and steady with no wandering off track ,almost like a machine, that takes practice to get your hand and eye coordination working right.
    That's why I always reccomend buying the big box of consumables to have as spares, cause until you get the hang of the thing you can go through them like peanuts. Been there done that myself.
    Using Motorgard and making sure you have a good ground clamp as suggested by the other fellows is a good idea as well.
    Some of those lies people tell about me, are true

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer View Post
    Looks like a hand eye coordination problem, cutting thick material as your first experience can give those results, best to practice on scrap angle iron or thinner plate until you get a feel for the cutting action, use a guide strip to help steady the torch and always drain your compessor and the lines, it doesn't take much water or oil to screw up the plasma cutting. The wire stand off is there for a reason, you can take it off and drag cut but only on thin material.
    When you cut thick material you need to be slow and steady with no wandering off track ,almost like a machine, that takes practice to get your hand and eye coordination working right.
    That's why I always reccomend buying the big box of consumables to have as spares, cause until you get the hang of the thing you can go through them like peanuts. Been there done that myself.
    Using Motorgard and making sure you have a good ground clamp as suggested by the other fellows is a good idea as well.
    Looks to me like it wasnt cutting smooth and he let it sit while it melted through rather than a steady drag. Mine had a problem where it wouldnt cut through on thinner material. I did find one of my points was twisted a little but never tried it again. Maybe it was a bad ground to causing it ground itself through the torch?? Or could the plasma arc actually start and cut with no ground?
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    Looks to me like it wasnt cutting smooth and he let it sit while it melted through rather than a steady drag. Mine had a problem where it wouldnt cut through on thinner material. I did find one of my points was twisted a little but never tried it again. Maybe it was a bad ground to causing it ground itself through the torch?? Or could the plasma arc actually start and cut with no ground?
    Ozzy said this was his first time, so ,you can expect that kinda thing especially on a thick material, the thicker the material the more you need a guide strip to rest the torch against and the slower but more consistant must be the movement. I expect Ozzy will try some thinner stuff and have all of this figured out in a day or two of playing with the plasma,,,we all had to learn this at one time or another...
    Some of those lies people tell about me, are true

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason View Post
    Or could the plasma arc actually start and cut with no ground?
    The pilot-arc ones do. That pic I put up was an example of that. I've done it a few times... they give you enough sparking to confuse you (me..).
    Everlast PowerPlasma70
    Hobart Ironman 230
    Lincoln A-D/C 225
    'Classic' Everlast Powertig 200DX 'We don't need no steenkin pre-flow..'
    jakemateer.com

  9. #9
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    Dec 2011
    Location
    Port Orchard, WA
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    Thanks for this post, my first cuts were 1/2" flats had much of the same problems shown in the pictures you posted, I am still working on getting a replacement outer shield. and will be up on line again in a week. All the post were a great help as it turns out to me me vs the machine with the problems. It look like I'm going to meed to get a box of consumables as I work through the learning curve. I am one of those people that does not have a steady hand and tend to use guides or templates when I cut. I guess the same will apply with plasma as with a gas torch..

  10. #10

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    also if your in t4 mode it will cut like that, mine cut like that and i moved it to T2 and it then operated like a new machine
    Gil
    powerpro 256
    lincoln 185

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