Project #5 from Spike : Very low-budget radius brake

[Spike]

So, i found myself in want today for a radius brake to make my seat pans. I had a slightly more sophisticated setup (but only slightly) that i used to use for this, but when i moved shops last time it did not make the move. Now i need a new one, and i have these modular tool stands that i made to hold all my tools, so i figured i would make an addition that i could drop into place when i need it, and then disappear when i don't.

Starting with the tool-stand...


I then cut some 1.5" x .120" wall steel tube (it drops right inside of the thick wall square tubing that i used for the tool holder) to make a new tool fixture for my 'radius-brake'.


After cleaning up the square tubing, i welded it to a piece of 12x20" steel plate scrap that i had laying around the shop. I tig weld this part so it's nice and clean, and i don't have to worry about weld build-up getting in the way when the post slides into the tool holder.


After it cools, then i slide the base for my radius bender into the tool stand and measure and cut a piece of 1.25" x .120" wall steel DOM tubing. It ends up being 20" long to match the long edge of the steel plate i'm using for the base.


I used a flat bar to level the top of the tubing to the surface of the plate and welded it in place with the mig welder (speed and ease was more important than pretty for this part of the project, so i used the MiG welder rather than TiG). For this project, it IS important that the top edge of the tube be level with the top surface of the plate, otherwise your radius bends will be crooked, or will warp the sheetmetal as you bend it.


Now, i have a 1/2" x 2" rectangular bar of steel that i use for this sort of work. position your sheetmetal that you want bent so that the bend lines up with the centerline of the pipe that you welded on, and clamp that steel bar down on top of it, securing the bar and workpiece firmly to the plate/pipe assembly. I use a C-clamp on one side, and a quick release ratchet on the other, so that i can quickly un-clamp the ratchet, reposition, and re-clamp for the next bend.


Now you just grab the edge of your workpiece that is sticking out and smoothly and evenly push it down to make a nice gentle radius bend in the sheetmetal.

[charger891]

Nice radius bender you built!, one more thing on my long tool tist to build!

[Spike]

Nice radius bender you built!, one more thing on my long tool tist to build!

There's more coming on this project... i was cutting more pieces to put more functionality to it, and i snapped my bandsaw blade, so i'm on hold while i find a local vendor to get me a new blade.

[Buzz]

There's more coming on this project... i was cutting more pieces to put more functionality to it, and i snapped my bandsaw blade, so i'm on hold while i find a local vendor to get me a new blade.

I hate that when that happens, make sure to buy 2 blades. Even so when 1 breaks we put our spare on but never run out and get another.

[Powertig]

this looks like a great gorilla tool. How thick a work piece can you bend with this tool?

[Spike]

this looks like a great gorilla tool. How thick a work piece can you bend with this tool?

I *am* a gorilla, lol.
I can bend .080 6061 aluminum and 16 awg steel on a setup like this... maybe 14awg. It's quick and dirty, i was in a hurry to use it to get this first part done. I was making a handle and bending bar when i snapped my bandsaw blade.

after i get the handle on, i'll be able to do 1/8" steel no problem, and i can get thicker (like 1/4", 3/8" steel) if i heat it up with the torch a little before i bend it. heck, i do blacksmith work... if i got the metal into forging temperatures, i don't see why it wouldn't bend 1" stock. but if i'm bending something that thick, chances are that i don't really want a 'radius bend'... so i just heat it up and knock it into shape over my anvil.

But, first i need a new bandsaw blade, and some free time away from other projects to finish it.