Project #1 Dyethor Control panel box.

[dyethor]

Hello,

This project is a control panel for a fully pneumatic machine that removes gasoline from junked vehicles. This particular part im making is for our trade show display so its going to be a little more fancy (ie. Bead blasted and anodized.). It's constructed from a 3/16" sheet 6061 aluminum and fully Tig welded. The Box Dimensions are 12"x 12"x12" with a angled removable front control panel. The box will also have a safety cover that goes over one of the switches, this will be made of aluminum as well.


This first picture is of two pieces of aluminum measuring at 12"x12" held at a 90 degree angle with two corner clamps. I made so that it is a outside corner joint single fillet.


These following three pictures are of the side panels of the box.
This is the part tacked into place.


A closer look at the tack and joint.


The joint welded.


This is a picture of Both sides Welded on.

[dyethor]

The next photo is of the frontal view. this part will get a 2" x 12" piece welded on.


Here is the part tacked on.


Here is a close up of the part fully welded.

[dyethor]

Next I cut out 4 1" pieces of 1" x 1/4" angle stock. These will be threaded and used to secure the front panel.

Here is a pic of all the parts cut out.


This is where two of the tabs go.


The tab being held in place waiting to get welded.


The tabs welded in.


All four tabs Welded in place.

[dyethor]

I used this machine to cut out all my parts. It has a 10' bed and can cut up to 1/4" steel.


This is the front panel. Here I have marked the location of where the mounting screws will be located. I'm in the process of using a spring punch. This helps with keeping the drill bit from wandering when starting a hole. The screws are a 5/16-18 button head screw so I drill the holes with a 3/8 bit in the end.


Here is the panel mounted. To get here I had drilled out the holes on the panel with a drill size F (the size needed to tap out the holes with a 5/16-18 tap). Then I used those holes as a drill guide to locate and drill the holes in the tabs. Doing it this way helps in final fitment. Once the tab holes are drilled I tap them. Then I ream out the holes on the panel to 3/8.


Here I have drilled out the holes for the switches and used a 3M pad mounted on a mandrel on a corded angle grinder. I do this to get rid of any sharp edges and so smooth out any scratches.

[dyethor]

This next Picture is of the parts for the switch cover. The top piece I bent to contour the two other pieces.


This is one side freshly welded on.



After both sides are welded on I used a 60 grit flapper wheel on the angle grinder to smooth down the welds and edges. After the 60 grit I used the rotary 3M pad to smooth it further. This is in preperation for bead blasting.

[dyethor]

Here are the box and panel bead blasted.


I drilled out 2 holes using a #30 drill bit, this is to attach a spring loaded hinge that mounts to the panel. In this picture they are on the back side out of view.


Now the parts are ready to go to the anodizer. For those of you unfamiliar with this process you want to have un-assembled parts. This allows the anodizing to reach all surfaces, also if you have any ferrous parts, like screws, they will end up corroded, as the average anodizing process uses sulfuric acid.

[charger891]

Nice welds! looks like you got all the toys in your shop! i`m gealous! neat tig torch your using, what brand is it??

[dyethor]

Thanks. The torch is made by TEC Torch. Its a I-head Roto head for 150 amps, though I routinely run it at higher amps and its lasted a year so far. Its great for reaching around things and welding inside pipes.

[Powertig]

This is some nice work, sorry if i missed it but what type filler rod did you use?

[everlastsupport]

Very nice work. Did you use the LX? A friend has a 10' unit that will only to 1/4" and up. I would prefer 1/4" and down. OR both.

[dyethor]

I used R4043 rod at 3/32 diameter. The Electrode is a 3/32 2% thoriated. The machine I used is a miller dynasty 200dx. (I don't have my everlast machine yet, soon though.)
I also used pure argon for the shielding gas.
Mike, I wasn't aware there were shears that couldn't cut smaller thicknesses only larger ones. It seems odd, you would think you'd want one that can cut it all, to save space.

[everlastsupport]

I used R4043 rod at 3/32 diameter. The Electrode is a 3/32 2% thoriated. The machine I used is a miller dynasty 200dx. (I don't have my everlast machine yet, soon though.)
I also used pure argon for the shielding gas.

You will really like the LX. Great machine and choice.

Mike, I wasn't aware there were shears that couldn't cut smaller thicknesses only larger ones. It seems odd, you would think you'd want one that can cut it all, to save space.

Sounds weird, but down to .25" I will get the name next time I am over mooching drops.

[dyethor]

Ok I got the parts back from the anodizer. They were supposed to be type 3 hard anodized however their machine was down due to faulty wiring in their shop. So instead after them telling me it was done over the phone and me driving down there twice. The first time they didn't know why it wasn't done and told me it would be done the next day. I was busy the next day so I called and they put me on hold then said it was done. I get there and after searching around their shop its found in the box I brought it in not even touched. Turns out that they knew their machine was down the previous week and neglected to tell me so. So I went ahead and had them do a type 2 anodize, its not as durable as type 3, but it will do since this is for a trade show and not going out in the field. I don't think I will do business with them again.

This picture is the parts fresh from the anodizer. When parts are anodized they are really dry. I learned a trick at a previous job to wipe it down with WD40, it soaks in and makes it a little shiny and less prone to staining.
That's why it there are wipe marks on this flat piece.


Here is the part being mounted on the machine.


Here its all finished and installed.


Here is the safety cover lifted to access the puncture button. Its funny the box is 12" wide, and the perspective from the camera makes my hand look huge. Haha.

[jerky]

So I went ahead and had them do a type 2 anodize, its not as durable as type 2

kinda confused a little here.

[charger891]

is type 3 anodizing tuffer than type 2??

[dyethor]

Jerky, I had meant to put type 3. It is corrected now.

Charger, Yea its what they call hard anodizing. Its a little more resistant to scratches and wear.

[DVA]

Nice work, I like the sheer. Wish I had one of thoes around.

[welderdude]

I gotta say that is a very nice blue color! The beads look very good btw.

[Mike J]

Nothing like the proper tools to really help it out. Are you a fabricator?

Cheers,

Mike