Plasma Table Build - Plasma Bot 4.0

[SeanMurphy265]

Hi Sean,
Any chance of Getting a Copy of your Plans?
Thanks in advance

The table I built on my own. I had originally planned to follow the plans from the kit I ordered. I purchased the carriages from No Sleep Studio. He gives you a list of materials you will need (gear rack, bearings, hardware, etc) after you purchase the carriages. He has a print for a table on his forum. No Sleep sells parts and you build your own table with their plans and build of materials list. The B.O.M. gives you links and part numbers for all the parts you will need. I went with Probotix 4 axis monster kit for my electronics. A lot of people go with CandCNC.com pre-wired RTR kits. I know there is a popular Australian company that sells the motor kits as well.

http://www.needfulthings.net/host/no...udio/index.php

Shop Droids Forum
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdroids/forum/index.php

[Scotty1]

The table I built on my own. I had originally planned to follow the plans from the kit I ordered. I purchased the carriages from No Sleep Studio. He gives you a list of materials you will need (gear rack, bearings, hardware, etc) after you purchase the carriages. He has a print for a table on his forum. No Sleep sells parts and you build your own table with their plans and build of materials list. The B.O.M. gives you links and part numbers for all the parts you will need. I went with Probotix 4 axis monster kit for my electronics. A lot of people go with CandCNC.com pre-wired RTR kits. I know there is a popular Australian company that sells the motor kits as well.

http://www.needfulthings.net/host/no...udio/index.php

Shop Droids Forum
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdroids/forum/index.php

Thanks For those Links SEAN,I will follow them up
Cheers and Beers

[SeanMurphy265]

Starting to do the final part of the build, installing the gear rack on the tubing. I've been trying to drill and tap some holes in the gear rack. I would like to put three or four set screws in the gear rack, but it's not working out so well... I've broken two taps.

[Scotty1]

Starting to do the final part of the build, installing the gear rack on the tubing. I've been trying to drill and tap some holes in the gear rack. I would like to put three or four set screws in the gear rack, but it's not working out so well... I've broken two taps.

What are you using for lube,use Cutting oil not lube oil (Animal Fat works well)
or try 1st taper tap followed by 2nd taper, or slightly larger hole

[sportbike]

Drill an oversized hole in the gear rack. Drill for 50% thread rather than 75%

[SeanMurphy265]

I picked up my refurb windows XP computer from Walmart. I ordered it site to store, and it cost me $136.00 with tax with keyboard and mouse.


I ran one of the gcodes listed to make sure the motors would work. I realize that I have no clue how to run Mach3! I am very familiar with AutoCad and will probably use SheetCam.


I have to finish attaching the gear rack to my rails and on to the electronics / software part of the project.

[acourtjester]

HI Sean
You be getting close to making sparks. With mach 3 I would suggest you hook up the motors and do you setup for pin selection for the motors first. That way you don't need to think about any mechanical stuff or how fast they are going. These may help get you started.
You select the pins under config. and ports & pins you must tell it the printer port which is 1 along with the other info (step port 1 and dir port 1 ) enable the axis you are using. X,Y & Z maybe A for the 4th.
Load mach 3 and start it you will get a menu showing Mach 3 mil. Mach 3 turn, and plasma select plasma and use that until you get more info. All you changes will be kept in it. Or you can create another and call it what you want. If you want to copy or back it up its in the Mach 3 folder with a file extension of .XML (myplasma.xml example).

Wire colors for the BOB to Driver inter connect.
Plus 5 volts goes from BOB +5 volts output to each driver Pls+ wire color is orange. And from BOB + 5 volts to each driver Dir+ is a yellow wire.
For driver X Pls- is violet, X Dir- is green Pins 2 and 3
For driver Y Pls- is blue, Y Dir- is black Pins 3 and 4
For driver Z Pls- is white, Z Dir- is red Pins 6 and 7

All motor wiring is the same
Driver output A+ is white, A- is red, B+ is green, B- is black
The shields from each motor cable is only connected inside the controller to

Have fun
Tom

[acourtjester]

hI Sean
I forgot you must run the driver test located in Mach 3 folder before anythnig will work. It is just IDing your printer port with Mach 3. Takes about 2 minutes to run, I just sitst the for a whilethen says its ok and exits.

[SeanMurphy265]

My kit was pre-wired, I do have to wire my plasma cutter and THC.
This is how it should be wired.
http://www.probotix.com/diagrams/4-A...ng_diagram.pdf

Here are the steps I have followed so far.
http://www.probotix.com/downloads/ma...creenshots.gif

Slaving the axis
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdro...ay;threadid=13
Motor tuning
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdro...ay;threadid=81

I have not done this part yet.
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdro...y;threadid=100
Safe Z setup
http://www.needfulthings.net/shopdro...ay;threadid=85

My biggest question is how do I wire my Everlast 60C to
THC
http://www.eagleplasma.com/thc_en.pdf
and to wire this to my breakout board.

[acourtjester]

cannot help you there

[SeanMurphy265]

I got a call in to probotix!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

[SeanMurphy265]

I found some information on my THC so I'm getting close to figuring everything out.
Here is a video of my THC working.


The manufacturer's website, it's in Polish, but Chrome will translate into English.
http://proma-elektronika.pl/cnc-plas...eight-control/

[SeanMurphy265]

wiring diagram.

[SeanMurphy265]

I spent some time on the phone with Jeremy from Probotix. I needed a little help for wiring up the plasma torch and THC. Eagle Plasma who sold me the THC was also helpful in wiring and MACH3 setup. So far I feel good about the Probotix kit and Eagle Plasma THC. I have a little bit left and hopefully weather permitting I can wrap this project up! After I get it up and running I will take it all apart and grind, clean, and paint!



The relay board that will be wire to the start stop pins (1 & 2) on the CNC port.

THC wired to the breakout board pins 10, 11, 12, and the negative for the common on the THC.
10 - arc on
11 - up
12 - down and configured in Mach 3




I have to wire the Torch Height Controller to my plasma cutter. My THC has to read full tip voltage and not divided arc voltage. I don't think I can use the CNC port on my PP60C to a proper voltage reading. I think I may be opening up the cutter so I can get a proper reading. The positive to read full voltage is that it will work with any plasma cutter. You can also adjust the height up and down while cutting, and this should help get good cuts.

[SeanMurphy265]

I have finished all the wiring!!! Since I purchased a pre-wired kit the wiring was minimal. I turned my computer on and gave a little test and everything is running. I have a little work left on my table and I hope to have it ready for a test run by the end of the day. I still need to make a cart or by a cart for the computer, electronics, and plasma cutter. I still have some reading to do; I'm not familiar with MACH3.

[SeanMurphy265]

Here are some pics of the CNC port plug. I used different heat shrink tubing so I could keep up with #5+ and #7- this should let the THC read full tip voltage. I think full tip voltage is the way to go, because unless you use a certain brand there seems to be some problems with arc voltage dividers.

[SeanMurphy265]

Here is the table assembled without the motors. I was going to mount the motors, but I was at a good stopping place and needed to have some family time! After I get it running properly I will tear it down, clean it up, and paint. Thinking about grey, not sure.

[EmptyNester]

Sean,

I've been monkeying with the CNC connector that came with my PP50 for a while and just can't figure out how to remove the blue collar on the pin end. I'm afraid to try to hard in case I break something.

How did you do it?

Thanks,
Rege

[SeanMurphy265]

Unscrew the 12 pin part of the connector and the collar will slide off.

[EmptyNester]

Unscrew the 12 pin part of the connector and the collar will slide off.

I'm not sure I follow. Do you mean that you grab the pins and try to unscrew the center part of the connector?