New 200DX questions

[Bigwilly01]

Ok, so my new 200dx showed up last Thursday night to my delight. After unpacking and setting it up on my cart and then wiring the plug. I turned it on and just made sure it would power up. Then off to bed. Anyway on to my questions.

1)Does the amp knob on the unit control the max output and then the pedal knob control the amps inside those paramiters?
2)Or does the knob on the pedal override the amp knob on the machine allowing max amps?

I ask these questions as I only got a chance to weld a few welds with it and didnt have a lot of time to tinker with it. I was welding on some 1/8 in. wall steel tubing and had it set to dc. with the torch lead hooked up to the negative terminal on the machine as the manual said. It seemed as though i had to go full throttle on the pedal to even get a puddle started and to maintain it. The weld seemed very thin and was barely tieing in the 2 pieces(butt weld). Seemed as though the amperage was pretty low. At first the amp knob on machine was at roughly 80 amps and started with pedal knob at about half way. then turned all the way up on pedal and was finally able to start and maintain a puddle yet like I said it was still pretty weak.

3) Is this the correct set up?

[sportbike]

The pedal knob overrides the panel. Also, the unit will not display the amp setting while you are adjusting the pedal knob, unless you have an arc established.

Check to be sure you do not have your pulse knobs turned up as this will limit the current available. You should be abel to get the full power if you have the pedal knob turned all of the way up.


You can try connecting the torch switch and adjusting the current on the panel to be sure the machine is functioning as well.

[Bigwilly01]

I guess i will have to check the pulse knobs when I get home. May be a few months. Damn I wish I was home today. lol

[Bigwilly01]

Alright, I got some updates. I FINALLY got home and got a chance to play with my 200 dx. I first took your suggestions and turned down all the knobs and then started adjusting up just what I needed. I then went and invested in a few different size wire for both steel and aluminum. Also made sure that I got a good ground. With all this I was able to begin to lay down beads. I have been laying beads on both steel and aluminum and found that I seem to do much better on aluminum. Steel I just have not been able to get my "stack of dimes" effect. Although the bead I have laid looks just like I laid them with stick and a drag motion. I just have to work on my adding wire i guess. Anyway, I will keep you all posted as things go. So far I am absolutely satisfied with my 200 dx.

[sportbike]

Good to hear. I have had no issues with my 200DX. I will likely get a different argon regulator in the future as the one that came with it doesn;t seem to regulate the pressure very well, especially at startup (burst of higher pressure with the solenoid opens).

You are switching it to DC for the steel correct?

[Winky]

Alright, I got some updates. I FINALLY got home and got a chance to play with my 200 dx. I first took your suggestions and turned down all the knobs and then started adjusting up just what I needed. I then went and invested in a few different size wire for both steel and aluminum. Also made sure that I got a good ground. With all this I was able to begin to lay down beads. I have been laying beads on both steel and aluminum and found that I seem to do much better on aluminum. Steel I just have not been able to get my "stack of dimes" effect. Although the bead I have laid looks just like I laid them with stick and a drag motion. I just have to work on my adding wire i guess. Anyway, I will keep you all posted as things go. So far I am absolutely satisfied with my 200 dx.

The "Stack of dimes" look just takes a little practice ... it's in the rhythm ... puddle, back, add filler, move forward ... repeat. You'll get it down ... actually the stack of dimes doesn't really mean the bead is better or worse than other looks ... it's just what people have grown to expect.

[Rodsmachineshop]

I wouldn't worry about the stack of dimes . most my welds are with out dimes just nice and smooth . just as long as it is a smooth and full penetration weld that's what counts

[Rambozo]

How about stack of копейки instead?

[Oleg]

How about stack of копейки instead?

nice one RamBozo

[undercut]

nice one RamBozo

How about stack of копейки instead?

OK, quit it out guys. It's like people talking in a secret code back in grade school. To uncrack their secret code, I googled it. It makes perfect sense to me now. For those who must know, here it is:

Копе́йка (устаревшая форма: копейная монета) — разменная монета России, Белоруссии, Приднестровья (1/100 рубля), Украины (1/100 гривны), Азербайджана (гяпик, азерб. qəpik, 1/100 маната). Также в Российской империи до 1917, на Дону и Кубани в 1918, в Литве в 1991, Беларуси (1992) и другими эмитентами (трест Арктикуголь, Внешторгбанк — 1961) выпускались бумажные билеты достоинством 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 50 копеек.

[Winky]

OK, quit it out guys. It's like people talking in a secret code back in grade school. To uncrack their secret code, I googled it. It makes perfect sense to me now. For those who must know, here it is:

Копе́йка (устаревшая форма: копейная монета) — разменная монета России, Белоруссии, Приднестровья (1/100 рубля), Украины (1/100 гривны), Азербайджана (гяпик, азерб. qəpik, 1/100 маната). Также в Российской империи до 1917, на Дону и Кубани в 1918, в Литве в 1991, Беларуси (1992) и другими эмитентами (трест Арктикуголь, Внешторгбанк — 1961) выпускались бумажные билеты достоинством 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 50 копеек.

Спасибо, который был информативные

[undercut]

Спасибо, который был информативные

LOL! Looks like I've got to learn a new language just to keep up with you guys!

[Winky]

LOL! Looks like I've got to learn a new language just to keep up with you guys!

I cheat ... I use a computer and look things up.

[Bigwilly01]

Good to hear. I have had no issues with my 200DX. I will likely get a different argon regulator in the future as the one that came with it doesn;t seem to regulate the pressure very well, especially at startup (burst of higher pressure with the solenoid opens).

You are switching it to DC for the steel correct?

Yes I am running DC for steel. Getting nice looking beads and now maintaining a nice sharp point on my tungsten. Now that I figured out how to not "dip my wick". I also got it down on how to end a weld. Slowly back off the the pedal till the metal cools and then can let up once the puddle solidifies. I am considering a new regulator as well. Just cause my Victor for my mig welder is so much easier to read. Plus I don't have to break out the phone for the metric conversion app. lol.

[Bigwilly01]

I am also thinking of changing up to a water cooled torch. I find that after about 30-45 minutes of welding the torch tends to get a little toasty. I haven't melted it down yet but if I continue on the path I am on, I can see molten rubber in my future. LOL

[Winky]

I am also thinking of changing up to a water cooled torch. I find that after about 30-45 minutes of welding the torch tends to get a little toasty. I haven't melted it down yet but if I continue on the path I am on, I can see molten rubber in my future. LOL

Humm that's interesting ... I've used the 26 air cooled torch that came with mine for an hour and a half in a single sitting w/o much problem ... it got a little warm but it really wasn't much of an issue ... for 1/8" aluminum I have my power set @ 115 amps w/ AC Freq @ 100 and balance between 35% and 42% seems to work good for me.

[sportbike]

Yes I am running DC for steel. Getting nice looking beads and now maintaining a nice sharp point on my tungsten. Now that I figured out how to not "dip my wick". I also got it down on how to end a weld. Slowly back off the the pedal till the metal cools and then can let up once the puddle solidifies. I am considering a new regulator as well. Just cause my Victor for my mig welder is so much easier to read. Plus I don't have to break out the phone for the metric conversion app. lol.

Contaminated tungsten will do it.

You can use the downslope feature if you like to taper off the current as well. It works with the pedal and with the torch switch. I like to use the pedal and sometimes sort of swirl the torch a bit just as the heat is coming off to prevent craters.