New 205 observations--

[JBnID]

This could take a CS call. The new 205 combo is a beauty but seems to run at a max of about 30amps with foot pedal all the way down.
DC, mild steel, amps all the way up, preflow one second, post flow eight seconds. Arc force seems to make no difference, pulse makes no difference in power but sure is cool. One thing I've never seen before is a change in the light. #13 is not near dark enough during brief periods of a second or so, but seems just right on start-up, but this is my first try with inverter TIG and with a auto helmet. Reverting back to a 25 year old hat and memories of welders past, I see a dim arc, then a 'zinc contamination' blinding flash or flashes that wipes out the vision of any puddle that might have started. Ground seems good, no magic smoke from the machine....
Mostly confused right now.
Ideas?

[sportbike]

Try it with the torch switch and see if it is any different.

[performance]

What 205 do you have? Sounds like a helmet issue. That is how pulse operates. The foot pedal cog may be slipping.

[JBnID]

PowerPro 205 is the machine. I agree with the helmet issue. I had to turn the sensitivity up and din down. mutter mutter new fangled dang things...

I experimented some with the 2T torch control but it's not for me. I used a Wp17 150 amp for so long everything else feels like a pick axe and there seems to be no way to hold it without hitting the switch. I got no more heat out of it either.

I'm pretty sure it's running about 50 amps. It's just barely enough to melt 1/16 rod on 1/4 plate. You have to wait on it. If the torch is kept in one spot with the pedal all the way down, it'll melt out a place smaller than a dime in ten seconds.
I'm sitting here pondering how to describe something as subjective as heat in a weld puddle. I know my old machine would hum and rattle and burn a hole at 150 so I know something's odd somewhere.
Is there a way to check the foot pedal with an ohm meter to see if the linkage is slipping somewhere?

[sportbike]

PowerPro 205 is the machine. I agree with the helmet issue. I had to turn the sensitivity up and din down. mutter mutter new fangled dang things...

I experimented some with the 2T torch control but it's not for me. I used a Wp17 150 amp for so long everything else feels like a pick axe and there seems to be no way to hold it without hitting the switch. I got no more heat out of it either.

I'm pretty sure it's running about 50 amps. It's just barely enough to melt 1/16 rod on 1/4 plate. You have to wait on it. If the torch is kept in one spot with the pedal all the way down, it'll melt out a place smaller than a dime in ten seconds.
I'm sitting here pondering how to describe something as subjective as heat in a weld puddle. I know my old machine would hum and rattle and burn a hole at 150 so I know something's odd somewhere.
Is there a way to check the foot pedal with an ohm meter to see if the linkage is slipping somewhere?

You do have the main amperage knob on the panel turned all the way up correct? What amperage is displayed on teh panel display when the machine is at idle?

[JBnID]

All the way up and it varies between about 198 and 203.

[performance]

Black is hot, and white is hot. Green is ground? Sounds like many cases I have dealt with that had the wiring wrong.