Harsh arc with 6011

[posixPilot]

Hi guys,

It's been a couple of months since I've stick welded anything, but I picked up a 3/32 6011 rod last night and the arc seemed to jump around and was really loud. Plenty of BBs too. Could be a matter of perspective too, since I've been TIG welding over the past week .

Does this sound like rod that has gone bad? I have a 5lb box of Hobart (the ones that come in the nice black plastic box), and I've kept the box closed when not in use, with a couple of desiccant packs inside. I would have opened this box back in January, but it's been a really warm/humid winter for us here.

Since I was TIGing with the same machine, I triple checked my settings ... DCEN, 45A, stick mode, pulse disabled, and arc force set to zero.

Thanks
Mike

[jerky]

If ur running dcen then thats your prob. Stick welding is usualy done in dcep, so your ground is negitive and stinger is positive. Also turn your arc force up to around 30-40, this will help u not to snub out

[posixPilot]

I should have mentioned that I know DCEN is the wrong polarity. I was running it that way, as those were the same settings I used in January, and it's running much differently than it did back then. I'll try DCEP tonight and see if it makes a difference.


Thanks
Mike

[KSmith]

6011 is good for getting thru crud, but I would still want to clean the area of the weld, and especially, have bare metal where I attach the work clamp.

45amps is pretty low for 3/32 in my opinion. Not mentioned, what thickness stock you are welding. Doubt the rod is bad.

[geezer]

Mike 45A is too low for 6011, the recommended min is 60 Amps for 3/32 and max 90 ,,,,,6010 can run 10 amps lower,,,50 Amps,,,but 6011 requires more heat than 6010,,,DCEP is the way to set up your stinger....

[posixPilot]

I tried DCEP last night, and that seemed to calm it down a bit. When I ran the same rod in Jan, I couldn't tell the difference between DCEN/DCEP. Regarding amps, yeah I know I'm off the chart with the heat, but I'm working with thin-walled SQ tube, and 45A is the only way I've found that I can weld and not blow through the material. I turned it up to 50A last night, blew a hole, and went right back to 45A. I suppose what I really need is a smaller rod, but I can't find 5/64 and I can't seem to make a complete weld with the 1/16 I have.

Thanks
Mike

[DaveO]

The electrode charts show 6011 as DC EP and deep penetration- Mike, could you be thinking of the 6013 you tried when you say "I couldn't tell the difference between DCEN/DCEP"? 6013 is EN/EP. I'm wondering if the deep penetration of the 6011 is causing the burn through.

How thick is the wall in that square tube?

[KSmith]

I don't know that you can get 6011 in smaller sizes. Lincoln electrodes at least show the smaller 1/16 and 5/64 only in 6013. Welding depot has some smaller rod in 7014 http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...xtpage=results

I like 1/16 rod in my 110v lunchbox-size harbor freight 80amp DC unit. For 1/16 wall tube, I've used 1/16" rod at about 50 amps.

[posixPilot]

Mike, could you be thinking of the 6013 you tried

The tube was 3/32" on this new project, but I still managed to burn it up at 50A ... the last project was 1/16", and I did end up using 6011. I found that I couldn't keep the slag from the 6013 out of the joint, and I had fewer problems with the 6011.

I don't know that you can get 6011 in smaller sizes.

I think I ended up finding 1/16" 6011 (and 6013) at Ace Hardware in the Forney brand. I could run really nice flat beads with the 1/16", but I couldn't weld a tee joint to save my life. I decided that, in relative terms, the 1/16" put down way more slag than bead. The weld would stick to either side of the joint, but would never meet in the middle. I tried slowing my travel way down and weaving, but all I ended up with was bead stacked really high, and blow holes in the base metal.

Cheers
Mike

[welderdude]

one little thing to add. The 6010/6011 rods seem to run better when they are stored in an open container. they run like crap when they are bone dry.

[jerky]

one little thing to add. The 6010/6011 rods seem to run better when they are stored in an open container. they run like crap when they are bone dry.

these arnt ment to be dry like the 7018's. they need around 3-5% moisture for them to work good.

[posixPilot]

So, maybe I dried them out with the desiccant? I'll pull a couple out and see how they run after being out for a few days. What about 6013? Should I be trying to keep them dry like the 7018?

Thanks
Mike

[DaveO]

Here's a chart I found some time back- 6011s don't require reconditioning, but 6013s do. I predict a toaster oven in your future!

[KSmith]

Dave,
Thanks for that. I had no idea 6013 had those storage conditions. I kept a copy for my files.

ken

[DaveO]

No worries. I keep a reference copy handy too, so I can bake electrodes before I actually go to use them.

[posixPilot]

Dang! I just gave away a toaster oven, too!

[DaveO]

How did you fare during the storms? Heard you had some heavy weather in your area.

[Rodsmachineshop]

neat chart thanks

[posixPilot]

How did you fare during the storms? Heard you had some heavy weather in your area.

Thanks for asking Dave. We did not have any damage, but the tornado dropped in Arlington, which is about 15 miles from where I live. I tell you though, it could have done us all a favor, and wiped out Texas stadium, saving us from another miserable Cowboys season

Cheers
Mike