Need some help with wiring my I-MIG 200 pigtails?

[CGCINC]

Went to the local electric store and had some problems.

I wanted to wire a 220v plug on the welder cord and then make two pigtails to come off that, one for a nema 6-50 220 outlet, and one for 110v.
The guy at the electric store said that can't be done. He said I would need to physically change the plug from 220-110 each time I wanted to switch which I know is wrong.
How have you guys wired your welder to run off 220 and 110. What exact type of male/female plugs because he made it sound like this is impossible.

Thanks for any help!!

[CGCINC]

Found this.... Dave, can you tell me the exact 110v plug you used so I can tell this guy?

DaveO - I should have responded to these posts sooner- I bought parts for a 110 pigtail and finally had some playtime today. Got the pigtail wired with a 110 plug and a nema 6-50 receptacle, and it runs like a champ! Did some mig and stick, very impressive.

[kenwhite]

The I-MIG 200 is an auto voltage sensing unit so you should wire the dual voltage welder directly to a 240V plug and then connect to the 120V branch through a 240V socket/outlet to a 120V plug extension cord/pigtail.

There are 2 reasons for this.

First, 120V plugs are typically only rated at 15-20 amps and 240V plugs are typically rated at 30 amps and above. By connecting the dual voltage machine as described above, the 120 plug will never be exposed to a high current overload condition which can cause it to overheat and catch fire.

Second, the 120V plug is only rated to have 120V across it's contacts. If a higher voltage is applied than what it is rated for, it can/will eventually arc across the contacts and create an a short or partial short overload condition. By connecting the welder/cutter as described above, the 120V plug will not arc between conductors since voltages greater than 120V will never be applied to it.

EDIT: I used a 250V, 30A, L6 style Twist Lock Plug on the welder and a 250V, 30A, L6 style Twist Lock Receptacle that connected to a 120V, 20A plug for the pigtail.

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/web...quailplug.html

http://electricalsafety.lbl.gov/asse...igurations.pdf

You want to use a 2 pole 3 wire grounding connection.

[CGCINC]

EDIT: I used a 240V, 30A Twist Lock Plug on the welder and a 240V, 30A Twist Lock Receptacle to 120V, 20A plug for the pigtail.

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/web...quailplug.html

http://electricalsafety.lbl.gov/asse...igurations.pdf

You want to use a 2 pole 3 wire grounding connection.

Wouldn't have a picture of all the plugs would you?
I really need to show this guy what I need since he said there's NO way to go from 220 to 110

[DaveO]

Happy to help- it's a DIY thing, you do it all with parts from the Home Deep.

I will eventually get a 50 amp circuit wired into my garage, so I attached a NEMA 6-50 plug to the welder.

I made an extension cord for the 220v 30a dryer outlet in the house: an appropriate dryer plug, a length of 3-wire (white / black / green) cable (I forget what size, but I can get it for you later if you need it), and a NEMA 6-50 receptacle.

For the 110v pigtail I bought a 110v 20a plug, a length of 3-wire cable (again I don't remember the wire size), and another NEMA 6-50 receptacle, and wired it all together using the wiring instructions on the plug / receptacle packaging. Fundamentally it all comes down to black, white, and green wires, and making sure the black wire from the wall socket, for instance, connects to a black wire in the cable. As Ken White says, the machine is auto-sensing so nothing complicated is required at your end. I plug into the wall, and connect the 6-50 plug from the machine to the 6-50 receptacle on the pigtail, and that's it.

Tips and Tricks:
~ In case any one else is reading this- DISCARD any plug that arrives with your machine. It is not meant for use in North America. For people outside North America check your local electrical codes to see if the supplied plug is consistent with your local codes.
~ I mounted the NEMA 6-50 receptacles in junction boxes- be sure to buy one deep enough that the receptacle has clearance and does not touch any conducting surfaces. This is just a disaster-avoidance tactic.
~ The Home Deep may have the equivalent of "drops" at their cable cutting location, odds and ends left from other customers, that are discounted.

I'll post a photo later if it will help~

[Brian Ski]

Just my 2 cents...

Are you using a 3 wire plug/cord or 4 wire from your 220 outlet???? I will break it down.

If it is a 4 wire you are good to go... 2 wires are hot (if wired correctly) it should be the red and the black. Then the white is the neutral and the green is the ground. For a 220 3 wire outlet you use both hots and a ground wire. For a 110 volt outlet you would use one hot (it does not matter red or black) then the white/neutral and a green/ground. Like mentioned above a fuse to protect the 20 amp outlet would be recommended.

On the other hand if it is 3 wire plug and cable, 2 wires are hot probably the black and white. Then the green is the ground and no neutral. For 220 you have 2 hots and a ground. Now for 110 your do not have a neutral. So that is maybe why the electrician said you cannot do it. The ground and the neutral are somewhat the same. BUT if you use the ground as a neutral and the ground wire is damaged somewhere near the breaker box ALL the appliances that have the ground hooked to the metal case will become LIVE. That is why is is not legal (code) to use the ground as a neutral return.

I hope this helps you out. It sure would be a nice idea to have a 110 and 220 on the end of a cord. But without a 4 wire cord, it is not safe... Especially if you are working outside or in a damp area like a garage. BTW if you do it, a 110 volt 20 amp gfci would be highly recommended.

That is why all new houses (last 10 years or so) are wired wired with a 4 wire plug for the stove and maybe dryer. So they are not using the ground as a neutral....

Hope that made it as clear as mud....

[DaveO]

I wanted to wire a 220v plug on the welder cord and then make two pigtails to come off that, one for a nema 6-50 220 outlet, and one for 110v.

I recall having a tough time visualizing this when I first got the welder, and thinking the wiring was going to be some kind of multiple cross-connecting deal. I couldn't visualize it at all. Part of the misapprehension may be the term "pig tail", which put the multiple cross-connect scenario in my mind. If you substitute the word "jumper" it may be easier.

When I want to use 220v (because I don't yet have a 220v 50a circuit) I plug the machine into the jumper I made for the dryer plug. Machine plug connects to the 6-50 receptacle, which connects to the dryer oulet.

When I want to use 110v I connect the machine plug to the 6-50 receptacle on the 110v jumper, and plug the other end into the wall. Everything is in-line, with nothing hanging loose or unused, as the term "pig tail" may lead you to believe.

[kenwhite]

Wouldn't have a picture of all the plugs would you?
I really need to show this guy what I need since he said there's NO way to go from 220 to 110

I can snap one when I get home, and post it, if you think it will help.

[kenwhite]

The welder has 3 wires, black - hot for 120V or 240V, white - neutral for 120V and hot for 240V and green - ground for 120V or 240V. Like I said, the welder is auto sensing so wire it just like you are wiring it for a 240V circuit and then wire the pigtail to match using the 120V/240V wire ID's above.

[CGCINC]

I recall having a tough time visualizing this when I first got the welder, and thinking the wiring was going to be some kind of multiple cross-connecting deal. I couldn't visualize it at all. Part of the misapprehension may be the term "pig tail", which put the multiple cross-connect scenario in my mind. If you substitute the word "jumper" it may be easier.

When I want to use 220v (because I don't yet have a 220v 50a circuit) I plug the machine into the jumper I made for the dryer plug. Machine plug connects to the 6-50 receptacle, which connects to the dryer circuit.

When I want to use 110v I connect the machine plug to the 6-50 receptacle on the 110v jumper, and plug the other end into the wall. Everything is in-line, with nothing hanging loose or unused, as the term "pig tail" may lead you to believe.

I think the word jumper might help me explain.
Thanks for all the help everyone, I've got all this info compiled on a small piece of paper with numbers and plug/outlet pics..... Heading back to the store so we'll see how this goes.
I have a Nema 6-50 in my shop but I like the idea of the twist lock on the end of the welder so if I am using 110v with a long extension or whatever, it won't just "pull" out.

[CGCINC]

I can snap one when I get home, and post it, if you think it will help.

Don't bother... I think I've got enough info now! Thanks though

[kenwhite]

Good luck and just buy the pieces without asking for help...

[CGCINC]

Good luck and just buy the pieces without asking for help...

Problem is, I have an account with my business at this electrical supply store and all the parts are in the back so you Have to have help.
If it doesn't work then I'll just go to Lowes

[DaveO]

I have a Nema 6-50 in my shop but I like the idea of the twist lock on the end of the welder so if I am using 110v with a long extension or whatever, it won't just "pull" out.

So let me see if I can visualize YOUR situation:

For the 220 jumper, you need a 6-50 plug for the wall, a length of cable, and twist-lock receptacle, and a twist-lock plug for the machine.

For the 110 jumper, you need a plug for the wall, a length of cable, and a twist-lock receptacle.

Did I get it right?

A couple thoughts:
~ Keep in mind there will be a voltage drop over long cable runs. On 110v the machine's duty cycle decreases (by how much or to what, I don't know) but a long extension cord may pose a problem.
~ Many generators use twist-lock receptacles, so a matching twist-lock plug may expand your useability.

[CGCINC]

So let me see if I can visualize YOUR situation:

For the 220 jumper, you need a 6-50 plug for the wall, a length of cable, and twist-lock receptacle, and a twist-lock plug for the machine.

For the 110 jumper, you need a plug for the wall, a length of cable, and a twist-lock receptacle.

Did I get it right?

A couple thoughts:
~ Keep in mind there will be a voltage drop over long cable runs. On 110v the machine's duty cycle decreases (by how much or to what, I don't know) but a long extension cord may pose a problem.
~ Many generators use twist-lock receptacles, so a matching twist-lock plug may expand your useability.

That's exactly what I have in mind and on the paper.
I will be buying a generator later on, this guy
And it does have the twist lock on it

[CGCINC]

OK, I got everything except the female twist lock....it will be here tomorrow.

Thanks for gettin me straight!

[CGCINC]

Another question now...

On the twist locks, which sides do the black/white go.
The screw are not color coded, one has an X and one has a Y beside it.
"X" has a wider blade on the male plug.

[kenwhite]

Make X black and Y white for both the 250V plug and receptacle and you will be fine. Then black on brass will save your A$$ for the 120V plug.

[CGCINC]

Thanks! I can wire all kinds of stuff together...... Getting it right is another story!

[CGCINC]

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius hasit's limits".... Albert E.