Loose amperage knob?

[sprocket]

The amperage knob on my new 200DX seems excessively loose...far more so than any of the other smaller knobs...to the point even that I cant envision it engaging the pot, as it seems there should be at least SOME drag. Is this typical and does it warrant getting into the unit? Just pulled it out of the box and havent wired up the plug or anything, but before I did, figured Id see if anyone had this issue or if it is normal. Ran home from work over lunch to open it lol...now back at work and it will have to wait till later.

[sportbike]

Keep your pants on and try it first homie :-)

[sprocket]

hahaha I know I know

[Brian Ski]

Does it turn from stop to stop??? Or just spin??? If it stops where it should maybe the pot just has more play in it.

[coolmo]

The amperage knob on my new 200DX seems excessively loose...far more so than any of the other smaller knobs...to the point even that I cant envision it engaging the pot, as it seems there should be at least SOME drag. Is this typical and does it warrant getting into the unit? Just pulled it out of the box and havent wired up the plug or anything, but before I did, figured Id see if anyone had this issue or if it is normal. Ran home from work over lunch to open it lol...now back at work and it will have to wait till later.

My PP256 has this problem as well. It's also a little loose from side to side. It seems to work fine, I'm just wondering how long it's going to last. (and yes, all the nuts are tight.)

[sportbike]

So...Did you get to try it our Sprocket? It's going to be rainy this weekend, get to it.

[everlastsupport]

Just checked a couple units (250EX and PP60 same pots are the 256). It is not a hard drag, but there is a little resistance and no side to side slop at all.

[sprocket]

Thanks for the feedback, guys...unfortunately I didnt get the chance to get to the 200DX trials (I did get the plug wired up, though). I was busy getting my new shop compressor set up - oil change, break in, filters, oilers, etc all piped up and running properly. Then it was on to the PP50 (naturally after Im 'live' with my shop air finally)..wiring up the plug (testing out the 110 functionality, too - verdict - everything works on 110v, but you better have a dedicated circuit - just firing the pilot arc dimmed all the lights pretty good lol)...boy is that thing FUN. Have another thread going about cutting thinner stuff in the plasma section if anyone is interested.

I also was pulled away a few times for other 'important' things like local blue grass, UFC ppv, and some fun with friends. BUT...the 200DX is on the list this week as I can get to it. I will keep you posted!

[coolmo]

Just checked a couple units (250EX and PP60 same pots are the 256). It is not a hard drag, but there is a little resistance and no side to side slop at all.

Mine definitely has some side to side slop. It's the only knob on the machine that does. Do you guys have replacement pot's?

[everlastsupport]

Mine definitely has some side to side slop. It's the only knob on the machine that does. Do you guys have replacement pot's?

You need to call your dealer or the main US office 877-755-9353. The repair group should have them, the tech group has no inventory. So best to call the dealer or our main office for direction.

[Rodsmachineshop]

hey when you got your welder was your shipping box all bashed up or looked like it was treated rough ? as talking to my ups delivery guy today the drivers are getting really mad on how the main loading and unload centers are breaking stuff and there tired of getting the blame when it is the sorting center that breaks the stuff

[coolmo]

hey when you got your welder was your shipping box all bashed up or looked like it was treated rough ? as talking to my ups delivery guy today the drivers are getting really mad on how the main loading and unload centers are breaking stuff and there tired of getting the blame when it is the sorting center that breaks the stuff

The box looked fine actually.

[Rodsmachineshop]

I get stuff from fedex and ups sometime looks like it was drug behind the truck lol

[inthefrey]

Had the same condition on my PP205. I even asked the salesman about it after it was delivered - thinking it had been tossed by one of the UPS trucks. It has worked just fine - no problems. Don't worry unless it becomes erratic.

ALSO! Don't try to pry the knob off! There is a small cam screw under the cap on top of the knob that locks it in place on the shaft. Same for all the knobs.

[sprocket]

I finally got the chance to try out the 200DX yesterday. The amperage knob seems to be just fine, actually - amperage display from 5 to 202 amps - cant ask for much more than that. However, I am having some problems with the foot pedal. On 2t and 4t modes, the torch switch appears to be working just fine and as it should (as far as I can tell so far), but the foot pedal is not working on 2t mode. In another post, Duncan suggested setting the welder in stick mode, then depressing the pedal to get an idea of where the amperage is set (realizing of course that there will be some variance between the top amperage of 160 in stick vs the top amperage of 200 in TIG). When I did this, the amps were bouncing all over the place - actually starting around 20-30 amps, then bouncing higher and lower then bottoming out around 5 amps (with pedal depressed fully). Additionally, I switched back over to HF TIG mode, 2t, and initiated the arc - it was very very erratic and poppy, was definitely not developing much heat, and there was a nasty crackling buzzing inside the machine while pedal is depressed. I watched the machine as I pressed the pedal and noticed a hot blue arcing going on associated with the sound a couple of inches back inside the machine when looking through the front bezel - Id say off to the left side a bit when facing the front panel of the machine.

Any ideas? I might inpect the pedal assembly and check the cogs/gears/belts/whatever to see if something is slipping, though my electrical trouble shooting skills arent the greatest. I know quite a few people have had issues with the stock pedals on these units, and Ive read through some of the posts as to what might be the issue. My main concern is the blue arcing and buzzing/crackling that was going on. If anyone can speak directly to this particular symptom, please do share.

Maybe need a new pedal, or is the arcing a sign of something more serious within the machine?

Any and all help would be appreciated.

[zoama]

The blue arc behind the front panel is the high frequency points and it's normal. One of the tec guys will have to answer the rest.

[everlastsupport]

Sprocket,

We are closed right now (Sunday 10:38 EST), but a call in Monday 877-755-9353 would be simplest thing to do. I will list some common tech support things to check. Do all testing without the foot pedal to eliminate a pedal problem. See below.

I did not read your post 100%, was just passing the computer and popped email.

The HF point in the machine will arc. That is normal. On the display, normally I tell people do not look at the display when the trigger or pedal is pushed. It is of no use when the HF is running, will lock on a number and sit or bounce. Use the display to set the amps or base and peak amps while not welding. Then go for it.

If the display is bouncing with the trigger "off", make sure pulse is off (pulse on and it will display high and low amps base/peak).

Erratic arc, I would check the points in the machine and make sure the argon is good. Torch in (-) minus clamp in (+)

Low power outout, make sure both hot wires are on the L1/L2, no neutral on the unit if using a 4 prong plug.

If the pedal is removed and problems go away, we need to check the pedal. 1-2 is the switch, 3-4-5 is 0-50K POT 4 being the common. 5-6 a short to ID the pedal is being used.

You can all in and hit ext 203 and if I am not tied

[sprocket]

Thanks Mike. I didnt get the chance to get back to it yet but I will. From your post, it sounds like its the pedal and so I need to open it and check a few things. Ill call in before I mess with the points, I think.

[everlastsupport]

Thanks Mike. I didnt get the chance to get back to it yet but I will. From your post, it sounds like its the pedal and so I need to open it and check a few things. Ill call in before I mess with the points, I think.

If you want to call before you open it that is fine. Long as it is off for a few minutes and unplugged you should be fine. Be we can direct you faster to the points.

[sprocket]

If it was the points, though, wouldnt it affect the performance also with the torch switch? From what I recall, it seemed to work just fine with the torch switch in both 2t and 4t. Does the points gap issue 'show' itself differently based on the amperage you are running, or are the symptoms consistent regardless of amperage? I was doing mostly very low amp stuff with the torch switch and it seemed fine.