RFCS-14 Remote Foot Control Upgrade

[5440]

Thought I would share my upgrade of a Miller pedal for my 250EX.

I picked up the used pedal on ebay. Bought a 50K Ohm from Mouser, part #785-53C150K .

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductD...key785-53C150K

This is the same Clarostat type it replaces on the Miller, and I ordered 3 for spares and may add one to the Everlast pedal if it fits. The pot is shorter than the Miller, 1K Ohm version so I cut off some extra from old, OEM pot and added to new pot. I cut so 1/2 was inside new pulley and epoxied it. Use JB Weld if you have it for best results.it. The two set screws secure to the new pot on the other end of pulley. Secure the pot using the set screws to 1/2 depth then insert short pirce to be glued. Wait until setting up then pull out the pot and carefully clean and excess glue from the pot end. Let cure for 24 hrs.

I got the all aluminum pulley from here

www.sdp-si.com, part # A 6A23-014DF0906. It is about the same diameter and tooth to match the belt on the Miller. Pulley was around $20 ea.The pully hole is undersized and will have to be driilled out for the 1/4" pot shaft. Go in stages with the drill bits for best results.

I bought two sprare Everlast connectors when I got the mahine. Cut the old Miller connector off and solder on the Everlast connector. Use a DVM to verify your connections. Mine pin outs were:

Pin Color Miller (color) Function

Everlast 1 black black switch_1
2 blue white switch_2
3 green/yel brown pot_lower
4 brown green pot_wiper
5 white red pot_upper
6 plug jumper N/A jumper to tell pedal attached
7 plug jumper N/A jumper to tell pedal attached

I kept the caps

The cool thing with this setup is the pulley via the set screws which, should be installed so they face you when the pedal is not depressed can be used to fine tune the pot range.

I'm used to the Miller pedal and it is better quality. I have not had a chance to try this pedal but based on the DVM measurements it should work fine. Once my order for fittings to set up my new WeldCraft WP20 torch arrive I will try the pedal out and update.

[225]

Let us know once you try it, how it works out!

[5440]

FYI,

The pulley is only about $12, not $20.

I see the formating on the pinout got screwed up. It is suppoed to be 4 columns, start L to R with Everlast connector pin #, Everlast connector wire color, Miller wire color and wire connection function.

[everlastsupport]

FYI,

The pulley is only about $12, not $20.

I see the formating on the pinout got screwed up. It is suppoed to be 4 columns, start L to R with Everlast connector pin #, Everlast connector wire color, Miller wire color and wire connection function.

The inside mods are the hard part. JB will hold just fine, good stuff.

Easy way to move the wires, find the switch on the miller pedal and move them to 1-2 on the 7 pin Everlast DIN. Then find the pot, find the wiper and move to that to pin 4 on the connector and then move 3 and 5 over (other two pot wires), then short 6-7 on the 7 pin DIN plug and you should be OK.

Pull the wires one function at a time to make it easy, no color coding needed that way. Worse case you get 3 and 5 backwards and just flip them.

Or find the functions and note miller pin#/everlast pin# on paper them move them. Would not bank of colors. They change sometimes.

Thanks for the pictures, maybe take a picture of the pedal when done as well so others can see the height and look of the pedal..

[Rodsmachineshop]

do you know were to buy the cog belt . looks like a great setup

[X83]

They both appear to be quite similar from the pictures, so what is better about this model Miller foot pedal compared to the Everlast version?

[everlastsupport]

They both appear to be quite similar from the pictures, so what is better about this model Miller foot pedal compared to the Everlast version?

That is why I was asking him to post the pedal picture so others would see, it's the guts you are after, from the outside the Miller is ugly and big too. You have to pay more for low profile with us. Miller does have a RF/wireless that is cool though.

[5440]

Yes good call on the wire colors as they could they change. I just cut off the Miller connector and rang out the wires on the DVM and matched to the Everlast. When all the soldering was complete the Mod'd Miller was compared to Everlast.

Attached are pics compared to the Everlast. I'm used to the Miller because it came with my Synchrowave 180. I find it more of a ergo correct type pedal and looking at the side comparison, one can see why as the hinge on the Everlast is too far forward and the heel kicks up higher. The base plate on the Miller is thick to give it a stable foundation and the travel is more relaxing yet fluid even with the dual spring setup.

The Miller is actually a tad smaller and the cord is longer and more flexable. The Everlast pedal will be retained as a backup.

[everlastsupport]

Yea, ohm them out and moving them is the easy way for sure. Glad you did it like that, I saw you mentioned wire color and that would not help people here in the future, we have changed wire colors before. Also more complicated for some people.

Now posting the pin numbers would help if you happened to have written them down before you started moving them.

The Miller pedal is a little shorter in length, I think the pivot feels a little better too. And the insides are solid.

Size wise (and looks), is why I asked if you could post outside pictures, thanks for showing ours too side by side. So people see there is not a lot of difference outside.

Funny, trim the toe back, round the heel and add a little weight to ours, maybe some kick tape on top. They are really close. Our insides can be made stronger if preffered, there are quite a few mods buried here on the forum.

The time you have put in the project, you might have went for a used low profile to re-vamp. Unless you had the RFCS or got it cheap.

Either way thanks for the post, others will probably do that mod and this is a great starting point.

[5440]

Well I got a chance to try the pedal mod after I got my Weldcraft WP20 hooked today and layed down some Al beads. The pedal feels great and worked well. Once I get some thick steel I want to put the clamp on and measure the current output from switch actuation to full pedal as the AC will not give me a good reading on the modified AC, ie square wave.

[acourtjester]

After making a few foot pedals for different projects I cam up with a different way. Timing belts and pulleys are fine but a direct drive is better IMHO. Belt jumping seems to be a big problem.

I have a very low foot pedal that is easy to build and works great.

have fun
Tom

[Brian Ski]

After making a few foot pedals for different projects I cam up with a different way. Timing belts and pulleys are fine but a direct drive is better IMHO. Belt jumping seems to be a big problem.

I have a very low foot pedal that is easy to build and works great.

have fun
Tom

Looks nice... Where did the get the gears??? Or make them yourself???

[5440]

After making a few foot pedals for different projects I cam up with a different way. Timing belts and pulleys are fine but a direct drive is better IMHO. Belt jumping seems to be a big problem.

I have a very low foot pedal that is easy to build and works great.

have fun
Tom

I agree a direct drive may be better but they probably make a belt due to lower costs. I have never had a belt slip...knock on wood.