Lens # choice?

[Trip59]

With my 200DX on the way, I have to figure out how to get going, the welder tapped me out, I don't have another $100-$150 for a helmet at the moment. That said, I do have two helmets sitting here, a Hobart #10 auto darkening (fixed) and a large window traditional style with I believe a #10 or #11 (I have to look, it's my 'bystander' helmet for MIG work.

Anyone have a 'safe' chart? I know there's personal preference, some like a 9 for TIG to N-amps, other say this, or that, etc. I'll put extra lighting if a darker shade than I can see easily is recommended, no problem adjusting to the situation.

What I'm trying to figure out is what shade will work for arc at what power, what shade will work for what TIG, etc. If darker than #10, can I throw a pair of lighter goggles on under the auto helmet and 'stack' them? Hopefully only a month or two and I'll order up an Everlast helmet, but I have to figure out how to get a tank and consumables or the helmet is just going to collect dust.

I have some damage and side effects from welding in the Navy with a cracked (couldn't tell) lens, not looking to add to it.

[DaveO]

Here's a link to Miller's chart:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...Helmet-For-You

...but I don't know about "stacking" goggles inside a helmet. It's disturbing to hear about a cracked lens causing eye damage, too- if I can add to the scope of your post, how do you check for a cracked lens, or does a lens have a "lifetime" that you automatically replace it?

[Trip59]

Turns out it was dropped and placed back... found out it was cracked after a full day of welding, I was bitching about the flash burn and someone else had run into it before, so he removed the lens and it fell apart in pieces. The cover lenses were a bit dirty/scratched, so we never noticed the fine lines.

Interesting, that chart is different than a couple others (internet is a wonderful place... it's why I asked for a recommendation, to find a reliable chart)

According to that, the #10 Hobart I have that's rated for arc/MIG/Flux core, is almost too light for the max amps on my little 125, assuming I saw the full 125 out of it.

Other references I saw recommended no less than a 13/14 for any Aluminum TIG, but this chart makes no differentiation.

EDIT: Forgot to add, the Navy specifies checking the lens prior to welding... common practice was to check it during normal PMS routines, reality was it was checked far less often.

[Rodsmachineshop]

I bought this helmet from northern tool love like it better than my higher priced helmet cant beat the price hi a good review only 65 buck same here my eyes are messed up also , http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0403_200480403 same helmet that was shown on welding tips and tricks

[Rodsmachineshop]

Flash burn hurts like heck got it a couple of month ago from a bad helmet. feels like sand in your eyes and any light hurts couldn't go out side for about a week just hid in my darn room

[Trip59]

Flash burn hurts like heck got it a couple of month ago from a bad helmet. feels like sand in your eyes and any light hurts couldn't go out side for about a week just hid in my darn room

Been there, done that, too damn many times. What I want to know, what fuggin moron decided light green was a good color for a jacket? Worst burn I got since the Navy was welding up a brush guard for a friend's truck. Couldn't figure it out... then I realized it all of a sudden, it was reflecting up when I was in any position where my hood wasn't touching the jacket hard.

[Rodsmachineshop]

lol i wear black or white when welding i use a rear helmet cover since weld a lot out side it keeps the light out from coming in back of helmet and glare

[posixPilot]

I bought this helmet from northern tool love like it better than my higher priced helmet cant beat the price hi a good review only 65 buck same here my eyes are messed up also , http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0403_200480403 same helmet that was shown on welding tips and tricks

I have this helmet (the flames peel off) and it has been pretty solid for stick/TIG. At first I had an issue with the autodark dropping out on TIG, but then I realized that there was a sensitivity setting that fixed the problem.

Cheers
Mike

[undercut]

lol i wear black or white when welding i use a rear helmet cover since weld a lot out side it keeps the light out from coming in back of helmet and glare

Thinking about doing the same. I've already started to put together a piece of leather that will drape down the bottom of the helmet as a chin to block off light from reaching my neck and under the helmet. That should help keep me cooler in the summer too as I won't have to wear tight fitting clothing next to my neck.

[Rodsmachineshop]

i like the back cover on helmet since i sun burn easy

[Tacoma747]

Rod, when you say you wear black or white, do you mean shirt colors? I can't stand welding with a light colored shirt on, as the reflection is killer. Most of the time I try to wear a dark jacket or shirt, white shirts alone are blinding!

[Rodsmachineshop]

yes shirts tight collar long sleeve cotton shirts like t shirts since cotton is good when welding in summer and there cheap and dont get neck burn in front. have like 3 set of leathers but hate there heavy and to hot to wear these are cool i use them real cheap keep hot stuff from going down the front of your shirt http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CJMBEPMCMAI

[SeanMurphy265]

I weld with a 9 lens at home. When I worked in structural steel I used a 10, those 440 machines put out more light. Tig welding can get bright so you will want a 12 or 13 lens.

[Trip59]

I weld with a 9 lens at home. When I worked in structural steel I used a 10, those 440 machines put out more light. Tig welding can get bright so you will want a 12 or 13 lens.

What process with a 9 at home?

I ordered 11, 12, 13 shades for my spare helmet (flip front flip up 4 1/2 x 5 1/4) that will have to do for now for anything the #10 won't work for.

[undercut]

these are cool i use them real cheap keep hot stuff from going down the front of your shirt http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CJMBEPMCMAI

Gee, that's cheap. Wish I saw that link before I jury rigged my own. Would have saved me some time!

Don't really want to call it a bib ... Doesn't sound manly enough. How about a welder's beard?!? It definitely helps keep me cooler and I don't have to worry about burning my neck with UV or getting hot stuff down my shirt.

[Rambozo]

TIG can be all over. From a 9 with low amperage on very thin steel, to 13 or more for high power on polished aluminum. A lot depends on the person, too. Whatever you need to see the puddle is what it takes. The distance can change things a little, too. Age has forced me to use a cheater lens now, to be as close as I like to.
That is another real advantage to an auto dark, most you can dial in just what shade you want.
But they all seem to have the same look to the shade. I really liked some of the gold foil shade lenses and the color of an aluminum puddle through them. I have not seen an auto dark that looks like that. If anyone knows of one, I would love to hear about it.

[hokiefd]

I have this helmet (the flames peel off) and it has been pretty solid for stick/TIG. At first I had an issue with the autodark dropping out on TIG, but then I realized that there was a sensitivity setting that fixed the problem.

Cheers
Mike

I was considering the same helmet... When you say that the autodark "drops out", do you mean that lens was no longer shaded?

[posixPilot]

I was considering the same helmet... When you say that the autodark "drops out", do you mean that lens was no longer shaded?

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

[undercut]

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

Documentation for a lot of helmets is basically non-existent or worse, makes you think the opposite of what is intended. Took me a few reads of the manual and then googling to find that out too.

[hokiefd]

Correct, the desired shade level of 10 (or whatever you have set) suddenly drops to the default shade level 4 just as if I stopped welding. There is a sensitivity setting, and somehow I rationalized that I ought to set it to low. This worked fine for stick, but TIG would occasionally drop out. Apparently the setting was designed for use when multiple weldors had arcs going in the same room. Setting sensitivity to high resolved the problem.

Cheers
Mike

Good to know. Thanks Mike.