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Thread: Lens # choice?

  1. #21

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    You can tell by how your eye's feel ... I only have one eye and i have depended on this for decades ... if it hurts your eyes go to a stronger shade ... an 11 is great up to 130 amps a 12 ... 150 or so ... it depended on the type of welding ... SMAW - GTAW what ever ... Rule of thumb ... if it hurts ... it aint good.
    Powertig 200DX
    Lincoln 180c
    Hobart Handler 125
    Miller Thunderbolt
    and a bunch of other tools

  2. #22
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    The basic rule has always been to use the darkest shade that will still let you see what you are doing. Virtually any good filter will block all the UV and IR that does the most damage. Everyone is a little different as to the best filter level for each job. Also this does change with age somewhat. The Navy did some tests many years ago that showed only 18 year old kids have the best night vision because their pupils can dilate the most. They used this research to design binoculars for night watch on ships that would gather the most light for that size pupil.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. Default

    Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting? I have a cheap (HF) auto-darkening helmet that I've had for probably 10 years and it's worked fine for stick and MIG. It's never dropped out, always worked great. So why would TIG welding be any different?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slartybartfa View Post
    Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting? I have a cheap (HF) auto-darkening helmet that I've had for probably 10 years and it's worked fine for stick and MIG. It's never dropped out, always worked great. So why would TIG welding be any different?
    From everything I've read in the last week, most likely it's set to shade 10, which won't cover the whole range and they're trying to avoid someone TIG welding AL at 300 amps suing them for wicked flash burn...
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  5. Default

    It's adjustable from shade 9 to 13, so it should cover TIGging even on aluminum at the high end. However I just noticed a discrepancy between what they say on their website and what the manual says. The website says it's suitable for TIG and plasma as well as stick and MIG. But there are two cautions in the manual that say "not for TIG or plasma cutting." Don't know why that would be. However, I have another helmet with #13 shade that I can use in the meantime.

  6. #26
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    Odd... Only thing I can add is that I won't trust any of my safety concerns to HF... I buy lots of stuff from HF, but it is purchased with the intention of chucking it in the trash or scrap bin when it inevitably craps out. I wouldn't want something I bought, knowing it will crap out, protecting my eyes.

    Now, before anyone starts thinking I'm digging on 'made in China' while on a forum about welders made there... there is a distinct difference between the folks here, who are thoroughly involved and will stand behind the product, and HF crap, whose motto generally appears to be 'if we put a price on it, someone will buy it eventually'
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  7. Default

    Re: HF stuff, same here. However, I looked at the reviews on the HF auto-darkening helmet and one reviewer says it can flash on you (go full bright) while TIGging or plasma cutting. The NorthernTool helmet specifically says theirs is suitable for Plasma and TIG of at least 10 Amps. So apparently there's a brightness threshold issue with auto-dark helmets.

    Maybe it's time to replace my old HF welding helmet with a better one.

  8. Default

    I bought the HF auto helmet after the boss here at work picked one up and had been welding (tig) with it for about 6 months. He kept on saying how it worked just as well as the Jackson that it replaced (when the jackson was dropped and broke). I've been using it for about a year now and it works great. I too had to fiddle with the sensitivity switch, but unless I am in a position that blocks the sensors it doesn't flash me at all any more.
    Everlast Powertig 200DX
    Miller Synchrowave 200
    Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
    Hobart Handler 210MVP
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injected65 View Post
    I bought the HF auto helmet after the boss here at work picked one up and had been welding (tig) with it for about 6 months. He kept on saying how it worked just as well as the Jackson that it replaced (when the jackson was dropped and broke). I've been using it for about a year now and it works great. I too had to fiddle with the sensitivity switch, but unless I am in a position that blocks the sensors it doesn't flash me at all any more.
    HF currently has three different models and I suspect at least two of them come from different manufacturers. Some models may work better than the others. I've heard good things about the "Blue Flame" version (Model 91214) which I think is priced higher than their other helmets.

    Oh, forgot to mention ... I believe both the online description and the manuals say that the blue flame variety supports TIG. Can anyone support this claim?
    Last edited by undercut; 05-31-2012 at 06:09 PM.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

  10. Default

    They only had the blue flame version at the store here. I picked it up on one of their 50% off specials that was in the local paper.
    Everlast Powertig 200DX
    Miller Synchrowave 200
    Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
    Hobart Handler 210MVP
    HTP Microcut 30

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    HF currently has three different models and I suspect at least two of them come from different manufacturers. Some models may work better than the others. I've heard good things about the "Blue Flame" version (Model 91214) which I think is priced higher than their other helmets.

    Oh, forgot to mention ... I believe both the online description and the manuals say that the blue flame variety supports TIG. Can anyone support this claim?
    Yes, I just looked. It says suitable for TIG greater than 10 A. The cheapest HF auto darkening helmet is like the cheapest NorthernTool helmet. Neither has the sensitivity control. But the next more expensive model from each vendor does.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slartybartfa View Post
    Does anyone know why some of the auto-darkening welding shades' literature say specifically that they're not suitable for TIG or plasma cutting?
    The sensors on some of these helmets are not able to pickup the light from TIG and especially plasma. There was a thread a couple of months ago about someone having this exact problem with a helmet (HF helmet, I believe). This is what I thought was going on with my helmet until I found the switch.

    Cheers
    Mike
    Power Pro 256

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    I believe both the online description and the manuals say that the blue flame variety supports TIG. Can anyone support this claim?
    Depending on where you look you can find claims that is fine for TIG as well as warnings about it not being ok for low amperage TIG. I have a couple of them and the manuals change from time to time. They are not bad. I think the red one and the blue flame are the same guts, while the plainer one seems different. No comment on the skull. As long as you don't block the sensors they respond well to TIG. But they are only dual sensor, so it's possible to block them if you are welding around obstructions. Even if an autodark goes off from something, you might get dazzled but you shouldn't get a flash burn. They default to shade #4 when off and have full IR and UV filtering all the time.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  14. #34
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    Does anyone here have a Miller Digital Elite with the X-Mode function? I have always been curious as to how well that system works and if there are things that can fool it. I've never found an autodark that works reliably when using a mirror or two.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  15. Default

    I believe weldingtipsandtricks.com guy reviews one and compares it to some of the cheaper helmets. The X-Mode was pretty cool, depending on your application.
    New to welding!
    Lots of Snap-On tools
    In need of more toys

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Depending on where you look you can find claims that is fine for TIG as well as warnings about it not being ok for low amperage TIG. I have a couple of them and the manuals change from time to time. They are not bad. I think the red one and the blue flame are the same guts, while the plainer one seems different. No comment on the skull. As long as you don't block the sensors they respond well to TIG. But they are only dual sensor, so it's possible to block them if you are welding around obstructions. Even if an autodark goes off from something, you might get dazzled but you shouldn't get a flash burn. They default to shade #4 when off and have full IR and UV filtering all the time.
    Doing too much reading in this forum .... Now I want a plasma cutter. Any idea whether the blue flame HF helmet is OK to use with a plasma cutter? The helmet is on sale now.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

  17. #37
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    For that eventuality, I decided to just stick with the fixed shades until I can get a Fabricator helmet in. No way I'm trusting my eyes to HF...
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

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