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  1. Default Welding Nuts

    Anyone have any tips or tricks to welding nuts to pipe? I'm actually welding 1/4" nuts to 1/2" coupling nuts.

    Last time I put the bolt through the nut tacked and partially welded the nut and the bolt started sticking as the weld was cooling. Barely got it out and had to tap the nut to get another bolt in.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRM View Post
    Anyone have any tips or tricks to welding nuts to pipe? I'm actually welding 1/4" nuts to 1/2" coupling nuts.

    Last time I put the bolt through the nut tacked and partially welded the nut and the bolt started sticking as the weld was cooling. Barely got it out and had to tap the nut to get another bolt in.
    For starters I would use square nuts. They have a lot more meat on them. Weld them on without a bolt in them and let them cool before putting the bolt in. TIG is the way to go and keep the arc focused on the thicker part and just wash the puddle up to the nut without putting too much heat into it. Also it helps to grind off any zinc plating before you start.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. #3

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    After you weld the nut start running the bolt through the nut. Sometimes you still have to run a tap through the bolt because of distortion.
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by NRM View Post
    Last time I put the bolt through the nut tacked and partially welded the nut and the bolt started sticking as the
    I thread the bolt through, usually just to align the nut with the hole drilled in the base metal. Then I back the bolt out while the nut is still hot and malleable. Seems to work with out needing to tap the nut again.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    TIG is the way to go and keep the arc focused on the thicker part and just wash the puddle up to the nut without putting too much heat into it.
    So, you did not use any filler? Just washed the base metal onto the nut? I may have to try that, as my welds came out really cold when I used filler. I probably had a hard time getting the heat focused because I was concentrating on jamming the filler in.

    Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by posixPilot View Post
    So, you did not use any filler? Just washed the base metal onto the nut? I may have to try that, as my welds came out really cold when I used filler. I probably had a hard time getting the heat focused because I was concentrating on jamming the filler in.
    I usually use a little filler, but just get the puddle going good on the base metal before steering it towards the nut. Sometimes I use flange nuts, then you can just weld the flange and that's pretty easy, especially for sheet metal. It all depends on what kind of task you're asking of the nut. I'm a big fan of welding nuts onto items that get bolted together, so you can tighten the bolts with one tool. For that application I just need to keep the nut from turning, so a couple of deep tacks will do the job. If you are going to have more strain on the nut, you will prolly want a little more than that. However, if you weld two sides of a square nut, that will probably exceed the strength of the bolt, so welding all around is a bit of overkill. I don't usually have any problem in running a bolt in afterwards. 1/4" is a lil small, so keep a tight arc and watch the heat.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  6. Default

    Thanks for the tips especially the square nut tip and I will be using SS nuts. I am going to see if I can get some if not I will use the standard nuts. I think I will use the bolt to line up the hole, tack it, remove the bolt and then finish the weld. I will use 1/16th tungsten and start the puddle on the coupling nut then flow the puddle into the nut. I’ll post pics of the outcome next weekend.
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  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NRM View Post
    Thanks for the tips especially the square nut tip and I will be using SS nuts. I am going to see if I can get some if not I will use the standard nuts. I think I will use the bolt to line up the hole, tack it, remove the bolt and then finish the weld. I will use 1/16th tungsten and start the puddle on the coupling nut then flow the puddle into the nut. I’ll post pics of the outcome next weekend.
    don't waste any time backing that bolt out.

  8. #8

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    I did this on a jeep. I cut the old ones out and put some new ones back in. The first on I had to run a tap through it, and the second worked perfect. The second nut I turned the bolt up and down several times while it cooled down.


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