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Thread: Welding Nuts

  1. #21

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    One issue with with square nuts is that they are generally softer than even a grade 5 and have a grade 2 rating. Even though welding a nut removes some of the strength, it doesn't completely destroy the quality, and hardened nuts are welded all the time in the industry for this type application...Unless you can verify the hardness of the square nut, I wouldn't use it for welding.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Makes me want a TIG setup .... Any chance of me being successful at tacking a nut using a stick welder and a thin, fast freeze electrode? Can't try at the moment.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    Makes me want a TIG setup .... Any chance of me being successful at tacking a nut using a stick welder and a thin, fast freeze electrode? Can't try at the moment.
    There's no reason one couldn't use stick to weld nuts to a surface. Well, I wouldn't want to try tacking #8's, but a 1/4" nut (7/16" wrench) can be tacked easily enough. On a nut that size I'd use 1/16" rod, or 5/64. Tack it opposite sides, work around, alternating sides. Lean towards the thicker of the two metals you are joining. No sarcasm intended really, but it's not rocket science (in tribute to an old friend, Ray Bradbury, who died at 91 yesterday).

    ken
    UNT 520D plasma/stick/tig; Hobart Handler 140 Mig; HF 80amp stick welder; Victor O/A; 4x6 Horizontal bandsaw; Planishing hammer; & Stuff

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by KSmith View Post
    (in tribute to an old friend, Ray Bradbury, who died at 91 yesterday).
    Ohhhh. I didn't even hear about that. After looking, I see that CNN has the news. Clueless yahoo and msn haven't been updated yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by KSmith View Post
    There's no reason one couldn't use stick to weld nuts to a surface.
    Wasn't sure if the higher amperage of stick would warp the nut too much or not. Thanks. I'll need to give it a try - have a few items where welding the nut in place would be useful. Probably better alternatives for me to use but hey, any chance to weld is good, right!
    Last edited by undercut; 06-06-2012 at 07:23 PM.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

  5. Default

    Sean I really like my rage 2. I cut a lot of SS aso I got the 90 tooth blade and it cuts well.
    PowerPro 205
    9" South Bend Lathe
    Enco Mill/Drill
    Evolution Rage 2

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    One issue with with square nuts is that they are generally softer than even a grade 5 and have a grade 2 rating. Even though welding a nut removes some of the strength, it doesn't completely destroy the quality, and hardened nuts are welded all the time in the industry for this type application...Unless you can verify the hardness of the square nut, I wouldn't use it for welding.
    My local bolt store has them in both grade 2 and grade 5, but not grade 8. However, I can get flange nuts in grade 8 if needed. It all depends on the application and the size as to what kind of fasteners you select. For some jobs 1/4"-20 grade 2 is fine, for other 4"-4 grade 8 is not enough!
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  7. #27

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    A flange nut or even a jet nut might be worth trying. S/F.....Ken M
    Lincoln Power MIG 300
    Everlast 160STH
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt (sold it)
    Lincoln Squarewave 175 TIG(traded it for)
    Miller DEL 200 welder/genset
    Thermal Dynamics 1250XL plasma cutter
    Miller XMT300

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    My local bolt store has them in both grade 2 and grade 5, but not grade 8. However, I can get flange nuts in grade 8 if needed. It all depends on the application and the size as to what kind of fasteners you select. For some jobs 1/4"-20 grade 2 is fine, for other 4"-4 grade 8 is not enough!
    Then you would want some L-9's.

  9. Default Nuts Welded

    Here are the clamps (10) I made that needed to have nuts welded onto the flat side of some coupling nuts. It was easier than I thought but I think I should have moved the puddle into the nut a little more. After using the supplied torch for this I REALLY want the CK 130.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    PowerPro 205
    9" South Bend Lathe
    Enco Mill/Drill
    Evolution Rage 2

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    The better question is; are there such things as finished ones?
    BTW cadmium has not been used on fasteners in many years, but the silver zinc that is used is also no good for welding either, grind it off.
    Just saw this. Cadmium is still around and in common use. Buy them all the time.

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