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Thread: Gas Saver set?

  1. #21

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    the brass ones would be easy to make something to form them i agree
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  2. Default

    I just sent him a text to see if he can grab a picture of the tool that they use to form them.
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  3. #23

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    could use a grommet hole punch Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7092 I have a matco gasketClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	7093 making set it would work good
    Last edited by Rodsmachineshop; 06-12-2012 at 04:38 PM.
    EVERLAST 250 EX , EVERLAST I-MIG 205 , EVERLAST spool gun NOW have 2 EVERLAST POWER PLASMA 50 plasma cutter's , LINCOLN 175HD MIG WELDER , VICTOR TORCH SET and many more tools to many to list

  4. Default

    As he described it to me, its a machined steel block with a round steel form. You place the brass disc in the block, sit the form on the top and smack it with a hammer. It forms the "cup" and trims off the excess material. These screens are pretty sturdy. I'm not sure one of those punches could make its way through the material these particular screens are made from.
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  5. #25
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    Is it just the addition of the screen? I thought there were differences underneath, more/finer holes for the argon, etc.
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  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    Is it just the addition of the screen? I thought there were differences underneath, more/finer holes for the argon, etc.
    The screens are finer than normal screen and $1.75 for a gas lens is much easier than cobbling something up.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  7. Default

    There is the gas lens its self that those cups screw onto, then the screen is inserted into the end of the cup. Supposedly the screen helps further reduce turbulence of the gas and provide better coverage.
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  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Injected65 View Post
    There is the gas lens its self that those cups screw onto, then the screen is inserted into the end of the cup. Supposedly the screen helps further reduce turbulence of the gas and provide better coverage.
    I've never used a setup like that but I think after the gas leaves the lens it would collimate against the ceramic cup so a screen at the end would difuse the column.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    I've never used a setup like that but I think after the gas leaves the lens it would collimate against the ceramic cup so a screen at the end would difuse the column.
    Jody offers some similar advice with a screen or scotchbrite as an additional diffuser to allow even more tungsten stickout. That would lead me to believe that it further smooths the gas column into a more laminar flow.

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  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Jody offers some similar advice with a screen or scotchbrite as an additional diffuser to allow even more tungsten stickout. That would lead me to believe that it further smooths the gas column into a more laminar flow.

    http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.html
    Shows how much I know.... Thanks.
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  11. Default

    That may be part of why my buddy has those screens out there. He likes to run his tungsten 1/2" or so past the end of the cup.
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Jody offers some similar advice with a screen or scotchbrite as an additional diffuser to allow even more tungsten stickout. That would lead me to believe that it further smooths the gas column into a more laminar flow.
    What kind of scotchbrite is he using? A quick google and it looks like 3m is using scotchbrite for a whole line of products. If someone uses scotchbrite closer to the arc, do they even need a gas lens collet body? Looks like the close the diffuser to the arc, the better it works.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

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  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    What kind of scotchbrite is he using? A quick google and it looks like 3m is using scotchbrite for a whole line of products. If someone uses scotchbrite closer to the arc, do they even need a gas lens collet body? Looks like the close the diffuser to the arc, the better it works.
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    I read that part before I posted and a couple of times after you linked to it. Scotch-Brite is a brand name for a whole host of products. I don't think Jodi was referring to the Scotch-Brite Pet Hair Flat Surface Roller! I might be missing something obvious - more specific please!
    Last edited by undercut; 06-18-2012 at 02:23 AM.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

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  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    I read that part before I posted and a couple of times after you linked to it. Scotch-Brite is a brand name for a whole host of products. I don't think Jodi was referring to the Scotch-Brite Pet Hair Flat Surface Roller! I might be missing something obvious - more specific please!
    Scotch brite has become a sort of generic term for the fiber abrasive pads made by 3M as well as other companies. Few of the consumer products that bear that name are what you are looking for. Any good general hardware store will have several grades of plain scotch brite pads about 1/4" thick. I think there are plain consumer pads, but most are bonded to sponges or plastic handles and are not what you are after.
    Here are examples of the plain pads.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-scotchbr...e-pads/=i0vxhi
    But anything even close to that will work as you are not using it for it's abrasive qualities.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  16. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by undercut View Post
    I read that part before I posted and a couple of times after you linked to it. Scotch-Brite is a brand name for a whole host of products. I don't think Jodi was referring to the Scotch-Brite Pet Hair Flat Surface Roller! I might be missing something obvious - more specific please!
    He never specifies, but he talks about cleaning aluminum with a scotch brite pad and then talks about cutting a piece of scotch brite pad to use as a diffuser. He uses it on mig guns as well, reducing gas usage by 5 cfm.
    Last edited by zoama; 06-18-2012 at 03:18 AM.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    He never specifies, but he talks about cleaning aluminum with a scotch brite pad and then talks about cutting a piece of scotch brite pad to use as a diffuser. He uses it on mig guns as well, reducing gas usage by 5 cfm.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Scotch brite has become a sort of generic term for the fiber abrasive pads made by 3M as well as other companies. Few of the consumer products that bear that name are what you are looking for. Any good general hardware store will have several grades of plain scotch brite pads about 1/4" thick. I think there are plain consumer pads, but most are bonded to sponges or plastic handles and are not what you are after.
    Here are examples of the plain pads.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-scotchbr...e-pads/=i0vxhi
    But anything even close to that will work as you are not using it for it's abrasive qualities.
    Thanks guys. I did do a google and found one instance where someone said they used the white scotchbrite. Interesting concept as the fibers aren't uniformly manufactured. Cheers!
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

    Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder

  18. #38

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    have to try that with my mig spool gun a diffuser would really help welding aluminum tried my new everlast spool gun today . only had a rolls of 5356 wire have to get some 4043 since welds nicer . took a pic have to get use to not having a speed control on gun like my last one i had .Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	7155 not bad since i did not clean the aluminum before welding it plus is only 1/8 aluminum
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