the brass ones would be easy to make something to form them i agree
the brass ones would be easy to make something to form them i agree
EVERLAST 250 EX , EVERLAST I-MIG 205 , EVERLAST spool gun NOW have 2 EVERLAST POWER PLASMA 50 plasma cutter's , LINCOLN 175HD MIG WELDER , VICTOR TORCH SET and many more tools to many to list
I just sent him a text to see if he can grab a picture of the tool that they use to form them.
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Synchrowave 200
Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
Hobart Handler 210MVP
HTP Microcut 30
Last edited by Rodsmachineshop; 06-12-2012 at 04:38 PM.
EVERLAST 250 EX , EVERLAST I-MIG 205 , EVERLAST spool gun NOW have 2 EVERLAST POWER PLASMA 50 plasma cutter's , LINCOLN 175HD MIG WELDER , VICTOR TORCH SET and many more tools to many to list
As he described it to me, its a machined steel block with a round steel form. You place the brass disc in the block, sit the form on the top and smack it with a hammer. It forms the "cup" and trims off the excess material. These screens are pretty sturdy. I'm not sure one of those punches could make its way through the material these particular screens are made from.
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Synchrowave 200
Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
Hobart Handler 210MVP
HTP Microcut 30
Is it just the addition of the screen? I thought there were differences underneath, more/finer holes for the argon, etc.
Trip Bauer
Former USN HT
Everlast 200DX New Model
Hobart Handler 125 MIG
Van Norman #12
Atlas 12" engine lathe
'98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
There is the gas lens its self that those cups screw onto, then the screen is inserted into the end of the cup. Supposedly the screen helps further reduce turbulence of the gas and provide better coverage.
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Synchrowave 200
Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
Hobart Handler 210MVP
HTP Microcut 30
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
Jody offers some similar advice with a screen or scotchbrite as an additional diffuser to allow even more tungsten stickout. That would lead me to believe that it further smooths the gas column into a more laminar flow.
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.html
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
That may be part of why my buddy has those screens out there. He likes to run his tungsten 1/2" or so past the end of the cup.
Everlast Powertig 200DX
Miller Synchrowave 200
Miller Dynasty 300 (Work Machine)
Hobart Handler 210MVP
HTP Microcut 30
What kind of scotchbrite is he using? A quick google and it looks like 3m is using scotchbrite for a whole line of products. If someone uses scotchbrite closer to the arc, do they even need a gas lens collet body? Looks like the close the diffuser to the arc, the better it works.
Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?
Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder
Near the bottom http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...stainless.html
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
I read that part before I posted and a couple of times after you linked to it. Scotch-Brite is a brand name for a whole host of products. I don't think Jodi was referring to the Scotch-Brite Pet Hair Flat Surface Roller!I might be missing something obvious - more specific please!
Last edited by undercut; 06-18-2012 at 02:23 AM.
Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?
Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder
Scotch brite has become a sort of generic term for the fiber abrasive pads made by 3M as well as other companies. Few of the consumer products that bear that name are what you are looking for. Any good general hardware store will have several grades of plain scotch brite pads about 1/4" thick. I think there are plain consumer pads, but most are bonded to sponges or plastic handles and are not what you are after.
Here are examples of the plain pads.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-scotchbr...e-pads/=i0vxhi
But anything even close to that will work as you are not using it for it's abrasive qualities.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Last edited by zoama; 06-18-2012 at 03:18 AM.
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?
Everlast PowerTIG 185 Micro IGBT AC/DC Welder
have to try that with my mig spool gun a diffuser would really help welding aluminum tried my new everlast spool gun today . only had a rolls of 5356 wire have to get some 4043 since welds nicer . took a pic have to get use to not having a speed control on gun like my last one i had .not bad since i did not clean the aluminum before welding it plus is only 1/8 aluminum
EVERLAST 250 EX , EVERLAST I-MIG 205 , EVERLAST spool gun NOW have 2 EVERLAST POWER PLASMA 50 plasma cutter's , LINCOLN 175HD MIG WELDER , VICTOR TORCH SET and many more tools to many to list